58 861 diesel no start

Alan8n

Member
Location
Wayne NJ
Tractor was running but with alot of blowby oil everywhere. Had engine rebuilt by reputable company although they don't sepcialize in tractors.
Before engine rebuild had injector pump (Roosa Master)rebuilt reinstalled in tractor and it ran fine.
After engine rebuild replaced injectors with rebuilt tuned injectors.
Manual says to time injector pump you line up 3 things: # 1 18deg BTDC (most new documentation now says 23 BTDC),marks on the injector pump, and the slot in the pump drive shaft almost horizontal with the large part of the lobe towards engine.
Checked for #1 BTDC by watching #1 exhaust valve open then close then watch timing marks on fly wheel to confirm TDC on exhaust stroke. Then continued to rotate crank by hand and watched #1 ex valve close and intake open then watch for flywheel timing marks again....and stop @ 23 deg BTDC.
Primed engine with motor oil before installing injector pump.
Tank was emptied and refilled with 8 gallons fresh diesel fuel.
Bled new filter and checked for pump prime by loosening prime hose from fuel tank to pump and fuel pours out.Cranked engine with injector lines from the pump NOT connected to the injectors an watched for fuel to squirt from the lines and it does. Tightened injector lines from pump to injectors.
Battery is new and starter spins well. Tried different throttle positions.
All I get is white smoke with no popping at all. Tried many times killed battery, charged battery and tired again with no success.
Removed injector pump and redid above sequence verifying all as indicated above.
Tried again noo success just white smoke...
So what did I miss ??? Is 23 deg wrong ??
Engine did sit for about a year without being installed but fogged ports with WD40 and sealed with tape.
When I crank it by hand I really have to lean into it when a piston is in compression. I assume that means I have comnpression ??
Any suggestions welcome ...
Thanks...Alan
 
You are turning by hand the same direction the starter would spin?

Try bleeding each injector while you are cranking the engine.

23 is the latest, best info.
 

Timing or moisture issue. In your case I'd guess timing. You are calling the proper cylinder #1? Cylinder at front of engine?
 
I may be all wrong but I think you should watch for #1 Intake Valve to close and then watch for the timing marks to appear. There is a period of time when both valves are open "overlap" and the incoming intake air is used to help push the exhaust out. The intake valve may start opening before #1 piston reaches TDC on the exhaust stroke so you may be 180* out of sync.
Lots of diesel owners have reported here that they not been able to get a 172D started after replacing the pump by using the starter. Pulling the tractor with another vehicle is the sure fire way to find out if it's going to start.
 
Yes..#1 front near radiator and when I crank by hand I turn it CW when standing in front of the radiator...tank was virtually empty but there was a little "fuel" left in it...maybe I just need to crank it more...I know the "squirt" of fuel is relatively small..
 
Yes sorry...I thought I may be out of timing also...and I am by no means an expert...but this is how I look at it...After #1 Ex closes @ somewhere near TDC then the piston starts down and #1 Intake opens..somewhere in the down stroke #1 Intake closes and when we start up we are on compression and thats when I should look for 23 deg BTDC...If I know that it is on exhaust (valve open) and see the timing marks on the flywheel then the next time I see the marks on the flywheel it should be on the compression stroke...I could be wrong also...and welcome any corrections...
 
Pistons 1 and 4 are at TDC together, cam determines which one is ready to fire. For # 1 to fire make sure valves are rocking on cyl# 4, then you know # 1 is on compression stroke. Then make sure pump shaft is in correctly, cam pump drive shaft too.
 
Dieseltech...I understand what you are saying ..but..I am doing this without removing the tank and valve cover and can clearly see #1 valves..but not #4... is there something wrong with my desription ?? again I am no expert but just want to understand...Thanks Alan
 
If you can only see cyl #1 valves, turn crankshaft clockwise while watching #1 intake. Watch it fully open, then close. Then turn slowly until you see 23 degree mark on flwheel. This is where pump should be installed with marks aligned. This way you know it is on compression stroke, ready to fire.
 
I would pull the #1 injector and check for compression as it nears TDC. I have gotten confused by watching the valves before.
 
Do you have good compression on all cylinders? You say you are turning the engine by hand. Those diesels are just about impossible to turn by hand if all if right with the valves.

I got a Toyota pickup truck from my brother that he never could start after removing the head to replace the gasket. Turned out he had thought it had hydraulic valve lifters and had turned all the adjusters down 3/4 turn so he had no compression. I adjusted the valves and it started right up. Still driving it.

Zane
 
How long been setting? Sounds like for year or more. Metering valve stuck. Bought one at yard sale couple years ago. They were going to scrap it cause been told inj pump bad. Had old fuel smelled like gas. Un stuck metering valve and new correct fuel filter now runs pretty decent.
 

I know that you have been charging the battery but is it strong enough? You can crank a diesel for a week at 2RPMs too slow and it will not start you need to be cranking it fast enough.
 

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