6-12 volt update points conversion?

ray299

New User
Hi People, so I watched a pretty good youtube video and thought I'd try to 6-12V conversion. (Farmall B 1947). I got the generator off and wiring harness- ordered the new single wire alternator (12180-se), voltmeter (772995m91) and coil (D5te12029ab).... but the guy I watched said nothing about points. My tractor has the coil built into the distributor, his did not. So I assume I clean up the points and keep going with the coil I have, just disconnecting the coil inside the distributor... just find a mounting area for the new one.. or is there a way to upgrade from points to solid state some how... if so, what gives the coil triggering for the spark?
thank you in advance!
 
Does your tractor have a battery distributor or a magneto. You mentioned the coil is inside the distributor which suggests its a magneto. If so you don't have to do anything on that end as it runs without a battery. Can you post a picture of what you have. I don't know if a magneto can be upgraded to electronic ignition base on how a mag works. It is possible to connect a mag to an external coil.
 
Hi People, so I watched a pretty good youtube video and thought I'd try to 6-12V conversion. (Farmall B 1947). I got the generator off and wiring harness- ordered the new single wire alternator (12180-se), voltmeter (772995m91) and coil (D5te12029ab).... but the guy I watched said nothing about points. My tractor has the coil built into the distributor, his did not. So I assume I clean up the points and keep going with the coil I have, just disconnecting the coil inside the distributor... just find a mounting area for the new one.. or is there a way to upgrade from points to solid state some how... if so, what gives the coil triggering for the spark?
thank you in advance!

"My tractor has the coil built into the distributor" Are you saying that you have a magneto?

All the distributor ignitions I've seen, both IH and Delco, have the coil mounted to the distributor, but not built into it. So, not sure what you have.

If you do have a magneto, you don't need to do anything. You can run the tractor on the magneto without regard to the operating voltage of the rest of the tractor.
 
@ Red Dave- can you tell me what this is? This is what I have...
 

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Does your tractor have a battery distributor or a magneto. You mentioned the coil is inside the distributor which suggests its a magneto. If so you don't have to do anything on that end as it runs without a battery. Can you post a picture of what you have. I don't know if a magneto can be upgraded to electronic ignition base on how a mag works. It is possible to connect a mag to an external coil.
I do have a battery... positive goes to starter switch
 
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@ Red Dave- can you tell me what this is? This is what I have...

That is an International Harvester model H-4 magneto.

Very common, they must have made darn near a million of them. Used on everything from A's & B's to M's and probably a lot more too. That is what a B would have had from the factory.
 
@ Red Dave- can you tell me what this is? This is what I have...
That is a magneto. it generates its own electricity and is not connected to tractor battery/electrical systems at all. The switch that stops the tractor (kill switch) is a ground that stops the magneto from creating spark. Do not hook anything to that device or the Kill switch. It will be fine and dandy as is. Do change light bulbs, and reverse the amp meter leads so it reads correctly. (The last statement assumes you are using negative ground! with the 12v battery negative grounded. Jim
 
ok did a little research on magnetos... I think that is what I have.... So this makes it easier to convert to a 12 volt? Just replace the generator with an alternator?
 
ok did a little research on magnetos... I think that is what I have.... So this makes it easier to convert to a 12 volt? Just replace the generator with an alternator?
Please read my input. the remaining charging and lights need consideration. Jim
 
ok did a little research on magnetos... I think that is what I have.... So this makes it easier to convert to a 12 volt? Just replace the generator with an alternator?
If it's running, don't fool with the magneto. Shouldn't have any battery power to it at all. Return the new coil. Not needed.
 
If it's running, don't fool with the magneto. Shouldn't have any battery power to it at all. Return the new coil. Not needed.
''Magneto SHOULDN'T have any battery power to it at all.''

For the benefit of the O.P., let's add "battery power MUST not be connected in any way to the magneto or the magic smoke will be let out"!
 
Hello Ray welcome to YT! Utilizing a volt meter on a magneto tractor using a one wire alternator adds one complexity. You need a way to shut off the power to the volt meter or it will drain down your battery when the tractor sets for any period of time a week or so. You can either add a switch that you turn it on and off with, which can be forgotten. Or you can install an oil pressure switch that will power the volt meter when the engine is running. I am attaching a link to what I believe is the correct switch. When purchasing you will have to inquire if the switch closes its contacts when oil pressure is present. OP switch
If you would use an ammeter this additional apparatus would not be needed.
 
You have a magneto. A mag is totally independent of your other 'electronics'.So no further action is/will be needed for ignition. Only the chargeing system will need to be changed over.
 
thank you everyone!!!
Odds are if you stick with this hobby for any length of time, you will eventually end up with a tractor that has a battery ignition system instead of a magneto. So for future reference:

Even if you had a battery-powered ignition system, the points do not need to be changed. They are voltage-agnostic. All you would need is an ignition ballast resistor installed in the wire between the ignition switch and the coil.
 
Odds are if you stick with this hobby for any length of time, you will eventually end up with a tractor that has a battery ignition system instead of a magneto. So for future reference:

Even if you had a battery-powered ignition system, the points do not need to be changed. They are voltage-agnostic. All you would need is an ignition ballast resistor installed in the wire between the ignition switch and the coil.
And a two terminal ignition switch! Jim
 

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