600 Hydraulic Problem

Hi Gene,
The arms will only rise hydraulically 2". I can manually raise and lower them (slowly) by hand and did so several times, thinking there might be air in the system.
Did not work. I thought of the bent idea but did not see any indication. There was some scoring on the valve as seen in the picture, but no one seems to know why or how it could become marred. This might be a clue, but the valve is not bent.
I'm sure I made all adjustments correctly - 3 times. I do not think the valve should be hitting the top of the piston cylinder
The cover is now back completely assembled on the tractor
the last one i went into.
 

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  • Ford 600 unloader valve 002.jpg
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Thanks Gene,
Your suggestion of moving the valve forward with a screwdriver was excellent. The arms worked like they should both up and down.
There's hope!
Now do we know what the issue is? What is next?
Sorry, I do not know the significance of the last 2 photos you sent
 
Thanks Gene,
Your suggestion of moving the valve forward with a screwdriver was excellent. The arms worked like they should both up and down.
There's hope!
Now do we know what the issue is? What is next?
Sorry, I do not know the significance of the last 2 photos you sent
your valve looks different i wonder why.
 
It looks basically the same and is in the same position.
Now that the screwdriver trick worked, can anyone advise to what the issue is or the next step?
 
I'm headed to the shop in a short while.
I'll be happy to report when I return this afternoon
Thanks so much

It looks basically the same and is in the same position.
Now that the screwdriver trick worked, can anyone advise to what the issue is or the next step?
First it was Hobo who suggested the screwdriver trick.😀
Now that you know that that valve will control the operation of your lift arms, I suggest you remove the lift cover, again, turn it over and watch how the big lift command lever on the side and the rear lift arms interact with each other as they move. Something is causing the valve to move back to neutral after the lift arms raise two inches. Don’t give up!
 
I want you to push in on on the draft link use a pry bar where it is connected to the rocker. While pushed in with the position control leaver at the top does the lift come up. By doing this you are moving all the internal linkage forward.

If this works you will need to remove the big rear draft spring and 3 bolt hole retaining plate and add a shim onto the shaft. This shim is a 5/8" washer with a slot cut into it to clear the dowel pin in that area.

i had a shoulder replaced this week so somewhat drugged up.



 
I want you to push in on on the draft link use a pry bar where it is connected to the rocker. While pushed in with the position control leaver at the top does the lift come up. By doing this you are moving all the internal linkage forward.

If this works you will need to remove the big rear draft spring and 3 bolt hole retaining plate and add a shim onto the shaft. This shim is a 5/8" washer with a slot cut into it to clear the dowel pin in that area.

i had a shoulder replaced this week so somewhat drugged up.



lift.jpg
 
Thanks Hobo,
I'll give it a try today. And, sorry for not giving you credit for the screwdriver test - it was key.
Good luck with he shoulder
 
I did as you said. I did not have an adequate pry bar, so I disconnected the draw bar and pulled it towards the front of the tractor with the lift lever in the up position. It did exactly what you said it would. The lift arm and the attachment came right up.
Tomorrow I will try the shim idea. The washer is 5/8" diameter or 5/8" thick? If 5/8" in diameter, such a thin shim will make that much difference?
I guess, I'm trying to add spring tension.
 
I unscrewed the yoke - 28 turns, removed the spring seat and the tri-angular plate. Made a 5/8" ID washer with slot to accept the pin on the plate and installed. I was able to turn the yoke 24 turns before a lot of resistance was felt. Should I turn the same number as I unscrewed - 28 turns?
 
I unscrewed the yoke - 28 turns, removed the spring seat and the tri-angular plate. Made a 5/8" ID washer with slot to accept the pin on the plate and installed. I was able to turn the yoke 24 turns before a lot of resistance was felt. Should I turn the same number as I unscrewed - 28 turns?
no
 
I unscrewed the yoke - 28 turns, removed the spring seat and the tri-angular plate. Made a 5/8" ID washer with slot to accept the pin on the plate and installed. I was able to turn the yoke 24 turns before a lot of resistance was felt. Should I turn the same number as I unscrewed - 28 turns?
The procedure for that adjustment is in the manual and covered in multiple online videos.
Turn until just able to rotate that spring.
You also need to redo the draft and position adjustments now too.
 
The procedure to adjust that spring is in the manual and covered in multiple videos.
Turn until just able to rotate the spring with little effort.
You also need to redo the draft and position adjustments again now too. That big spring adjustment is the reference that all other adjustments are made from.
 
The cover is fully assembled on the tractor. Hobo has suggested the washer be installed to move he draft linkage forward.
I tightened the yoke 28 turns back to where it was before I installed the washer - No improvement - the lift arms only rise 2"
 
The cover is fully assembled on the tractor. Hobo has suggested the washer be installed to move he draft linkage forward.
I tightened the yoke 28 turns back to where it was before I installed the washer - No improvement - the lift arms only rise 2"
Did you see Hobo's answer to your question on whether you should turn it back the same 28 turns as it took to remove it? His answer was No.
 
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