68 JD 3020 Steering

GunGeek

Member
I'm back and with another question. Just to update is a 1968 3020 diesel with the powershift transmission. Lately I have noticed when starting the tractor the front wheels turn all the way to the left. Then if I immediately try to turn right they dont budge. It seems I have to wait for the tractor to warm up a bit, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left then turn all the way to the right and slowly but surely the wheels will turn right. Once I do that all is well and I can drive and turn without issue.

Today I notice while I was stirring a manure pile that if I hold in the clutch (inching pedal) for a while, my steering locks up tight. As soon as I release the clutch everything is good to go. Is this normal or is this a compounding issue?

On top of that I noticed that my steering shaft started leaking a bit of oil near the steering wheel. When I looked at it I also noticed that the it appears my shaft/wheel is protruding about 1/4+" past the housing.

So the big question, Is something about to give out? Where do I start to fix this. Hay season is coming up quick and I dont want this thing to go down on me while I am baling.

I am going to do a fluid and filter change next week as I had a repair guy come out to look at my injector pump and while he was there he said to ditch the tractor supply fluid I was using as it was not the best.

As always your assistance is appreciated.
 
I would start with re-sealing and calibrating the steer valve, the part under the dash, if you can remove it and ship it to me I will take care of it for $380 plus shipping it weighs 74 lbs. I will re-seal and calibrate it with a bench test to prove it...
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That may be an option if my guy here does not have the capability. What about the gap between the steering wheel and the steering shaft housing?
 
I will take care of that with the re-build, there is a roll pin about to shear in the column..if you end up sending it to me, they can be tricky to re build, but your guy may know about them..
 
(quoted from post at 17:27:37 03/18/16) I will take care of that with the re-build, there is a roll pin about to shear in the column..if you end up sending it to me, they can be tricky to re build, but your guy may know about them..

So you are saying basically pull the valve and the entire column/shaft? Basically the entire assembly you have pictured?
 

Also what kind of time frame would I be looking at for turn around. Basically if I were to do it I would send it to you with a return label as I have a contract with FedEx.
 
The "nobody does it better" song from the Bond movie pretty well sums up Tim S on the JD's.

I bet he even says Sweeney, Tim Sweeney when asked his name.
 
Put it in a 5 gallon bucket with a piece of 2" PVC pipe out of the top to protect the shaft and ship it UPS to TimS. I sent mine @ Christmas and had 2 ladies give me an awful "Funny" look when I brought it in the door. Tim has done the power steering valve and changed over my SCV's from 20 series to ISO's everything is perfect. For me the shipping round trip is about $150, it's right and still less than 1/2 price of the local Deere mechanics.
 

Well that may be just what occurs. Local guy says he might be able to....

Tim, Can you PM me the information.

How hard is this thing going to be to get out? I read that it is a pain. I mean I am sure I can do it just want an idea. Also is there any parts/seals I need to buy to put it back in?
 
It is ornery to get out,, the steer wheel, throttle lever, and dash needs to be pulled to get to it, the throttle brake needs to come off, on the left side, and when you remove the large "T" fitting on the lower left be careful and back it up with a pry bar or some thing so it don't break out, they cost near $90,,the calibration process is tricky, and if not right you will be taking it back out for a re-try,,not trying to scare you, but if you have never done one it would be very lucky to get it right first time, that is where this test bench shines,, you will need a AR39585 steer valve kit $130. There are a lot of us older guys on here that can and have done a lot of them ,,but the younger guys that can do them are few and far between. I do 2-3 a week here so I have had a lot of practice..doing one for newgenjdcollector, right now..
 

Oh no I dont want to do the reseal I am all for letting someone do it with the proper equipment. I just mean any additional seals between the part I take out and ship to you and the part that stays home
 

I am probably going to work on getting it out next week. Can you send me the address information or an email address to contact you at.
 
i have done a few of them . and they are not easy. i am not sure if one show up in my shop again that i might just send it to tim but then again i been knowing to be a little on the stubborn side..
 
(quoted from post at 19:12:39 03/19/16) No gaskets to re-install,,just oil lines...

Tim, did you get my email? Quick question, what are the chances of that pin giving way shortly? And if it does can I still run. I am in line to rent a no till drill my time starts the 11th of April. I want to wait until I am done with the drill as it will be several months of waiting again if I cancel. I wont be doing anything with the tractor other than running the drill. Once I am done with that I could pull it out.
 
No I didn't get your mail yet,, and it's not likely that the pin will fail completely,,and if it does the wheel will push up , I would run it and repair it latter..
 

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