Case D hydraulic pump

[Dr. CHIP]

Got my "D" running pretty good now. My problem now is hydraulics not working. Is there a place that sells or services these? Thank you.

 

[olgentdc]

It could be as simple as a nroken Chain , Remove the Hydro pump And there it is ,,.. BTW my Dads 51 DC lost the Jesusclip and came unRaveled in there , Another clip and chain was no worse for wear And back in business , later exact same thing happened to the 1952 DC , then a yr later the foot clutch DC 53-54 Did the Exact same thing , Each Time the chain was like new ,,. The steel clip simply wore thru and let go ,,

 

[casecollectorsc]

Got my "D" running pretty good now. My problem now is hydraulics not working. Is there a place that sells or services these? Thank you.

Has enough oil in the system?

 

[Mike Fitz]

Is the main clutch engaged? Is the PTO engaged? Hydraulics work only with the PTO running and the main clutch is engaged.

 

[Dr. CHIP]

Is the main clutch engaged? Is the PTO engaged? Hydraulics work only with the PTO running and the main clutch is engaged.

I was unaware of that. I will check that out tomorrow. Would be great if thats all it is. If its not I'll check the chain. You guys are giving me courage to get into it -thanks guys

 

[Dr. CHIP]

yippie! Pto and clutch engaged and hydraulics work like a charm! thanks again. ran it some with dump cart and it got hot so gotta sort that out.
Thank you thank you thank you Im stoked!!

 

[JOCCO]

Yes check the oil on the back, also some do have a filter on the side. If it has set for a long time both probably need to be changed.

 

[Mike Fitz]

Glad to be some help! The hydraulic filter is on the side and can be washed and re used, changing the oil and cleaning the filter is a good idea. Is your dump cart equipped with a single hose cylinder or a two hose cylinder? If it is a one hose setup disengaging the clutch when you let the hoist down will save the pump bypassing wile you let it down and should help limit the heat build up.

 

[Dr. CHIP]

I changed all fluids and filters. I have 2 hoses. The hydraulics really dump fast. I guess next task is pulling radiator to have flushed.

 

[Mike Fitz]

Ok, the water is getting hot, you are on the right track, pay attention those radiators are heavy. Good luck!

 

[J Hamilton]

If flushing the radiator doesn't help, you may have rust and scale build up in the block and around the sleeves. My 51 DC had that issue. Lots of rusty scale around and behind #4 sleeve, not fun to get all that out of there!

 

[Dr. CHIP]

Ok, the water is getting hot, you are on the right track, pay attention those radiators are heavy. Good luck!

Idk, infrared thermometer doesn't show much difference between top and bottom of radiator. When I remove radiator cover I don't see much movement in the antifreeze. You can drive it 15 minutes or so before before it starts steaming. I'm not sure if this has a thermostat. I gotta get a new temp. gauge so I can get a better handle on this

 

[jon f mn]

What do you mean by steaming? That is not a pressurized system so they will steam a bit when warm. Is it cooking over? But there should be a lot of water moving in the radiator when it's running, so if that's not happening it could be the water pump. Those are tough to replace, so read up on the process to avoid problems.

 

[Mike Fitz]

More good advice has been given, A good temp gauge is needed, How is your fan belt? Is it in good shape and properly tensioned? There is no thermostat in this tractor.

 

[Dr. CHIP]

What do you mean by steaming? That is not a pressurized system so they will steam a bit when warm. Is it cooking over? But there should be a lot of water moving in the radiator when it's running, so if that's not happening it could be the water pump. Those are tough to replace, so read up on the process to avoid problems.

Steam comes out around the cap. Didn't think about non pressurized part. Don't know what would be an acceptable amount. I flushed the radiator back when I went through the tractor. I need to get that gauge.

More good advice has been given, A good temp gauge is needed, How is your fan belt? Is it in good shape and properly tensioned? There is no thermostat in this tractor.

Fan belt is good and tight. The generator isn't charging so I think an alternator is in the future. I will get a new belt(2) when that happens.

 

[Mike Fitz]

Does the cap still have its gasket? more noticeable steam will come out without it. Have you checked the actual water temperature when running? It may not be as warm as it seems. I would use something like a cooking thermometer rather than an infrared heat gun.

 

[Dr. CHIP]

No gasket. I used the heat gun just to see if top of radiator was different than lower part. Got a temp gauge on the way, that should help.

 

[Mike Fitz]

Good on the gauge, gaskets can be purchased or made easily and will limit the steam.

 

[Dr. CHIP]

got new gauge installed and made a new gasket .I drove it around up hill full throttle and new the temp gauge slowly(20 minute) went up to near 220 . I stopped and let it idle and slowly the temp went to 205. The new gasket seems to have eliminated the steam. It was a warm day which Im sure didnt help. Belts are good and tensioned ok. Not sure what I should do next. Water pump looks like a bear to change.

 

[LPakiz]

The best test of a fan belt is to grab a fan blade (engine off!) and see if it slips. You should be almost able to turn the tractor over on compression. If it slips easily, (glazed pulley comes to mind) get a new belt. Also, at full RPMs, you should hear a buzz or whirr from the fan blades.
On a darker day or in the shop, maneuver a trouble light (or a bare bulb on the end of a cord) in back of the radiator, in by the fan blades. Then go around front and look for light. If you can't see light, the cores are plugged with chafe and dust and overheating is probable.
Remove the grill and try to blast it out with a water hose. Hot water helps. A pressure washer is fine but stay back a bit and hit the fins straight on or you will fold them flat and it will take ages to get them straightened back out so you can continue to clean the core.
Water pump failure is very rare. I was a truck mechanic for a major part of my life and I NEVER saw a "faulty" water pump cause overheating. Ive seen and changed my share of LEAKY water pumps, tho.
95% of overheating problems are plugged core or slipping fan belt. BTW, a tight belt doesn't mean it isn't slipping. Try the fan blade test.