d-17 Hydraulic pump Dr, Allis ,Please?

[olgentdc]

Thank You for responding to the D-14 Hydraulic pump issue below ,,. I read thru 3 times and gleaned some knowledge and aquainted my self with parts and levers ,.. i have the same problem with my series 4 D-17 , All levers are full forward ,, , I wasable to lower the lift by bleeding off the lines , As soon as the engine started it quikly raised right back up and started whining .. it seems Dr. Allis knew the proper steps to adjust , and perhaps there is a site where i Can find it ,..I wonder If You might post that info here. Please /// Or at the very least give Me a website address . Thank You and have a Great Thanksgiving week Ya'All

 

[gearheadbill]

Your Series 4 will be a complete different system. It will be a low pressure and higher flow system . The main relief PSI should be about 2000 PSI. Your problem will be the traction booster control spool stuck in the raise position. On the valve stack below your right hand control levers, the traction booster control valve is the one that doesnt have a physical linkage attached to it, just an exposed spool. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the cap on the opposite end of the exposed spool and bump it with the handle of a hammer to free it. Lube it up good with penetrating oil and work it back and forth a few times to free it up.

 

[DrAllis]

(quoted from post at 20:43:57 11/21/23) Your Series 4 will be a complete different system. It will be a low pressure and higher flow system . The main relief PSI should be about 2000 PSI. Your problem will be the traction booster control spool stuck in the raise position. On the valve stack below your right hand control levers, the traction booster control valve is the one that doesnt have a physical linkage attached to it, just an exposed spool. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the cap on the opposite end of the exposed spool and bump it with the handle of a hammer to free it. Lube it up good with penetrating oil and work it back and forth a few times to free it up.

***** This is fairly common on these models due to lack of use. When they were in their hey-days, the linkage never got stuck because it was regularly used. The cap Bill is referring to is the section closest to the fender looking at it from the rear, There is no rubber plug or hole in the end of the short cap. Remove the two allen bolts, the cap and spring. Take a hammer and punch and drive the plunger/spool forward until the snap ring bottoms out. This will shut off the lifting. BUT, all the linkage in front of this plunger still may be rusted and sticky, so as long as you leave the two rear hydraulic levers forward, you're good. One more thing: when the hydraulic oil is cold and the engine is throttled up, there is a NATURAL tendency for the hitch arms to raise on their own !!!! THIS IS NORMAL and caused by back pressure of the hyd oil returning to sump. A snap coupler tractor is worse than a 3-point tractor. SOOOO: if you need the hitch down with cold oil you may have to shut the tractor OFF, move the lift/lower (front right) lever fully forward and hold it there while you stand on the lift arms. Just the way it is. My One-Seventy's hitch is always down thru the summer months. I took it on a tractor ride last Saturday and the temps were 50 degrees. The hitch was up whenever the engine was full throttle !!! Just the way it is !!! If you want to free up all the linkage under the console, I can advise on that too, but just leave those two rear levers fully forward and that linkage does nothing. You don't need to use them unless you are plowing or trying to hold a blade or cultivator tool bar at a specific height.

This post was edited by DrAllis on 11/22/2023 at 03:19 am.

 

[olgentdc]

Thank You Guys for helping Me Understand Shall i Say the Nature of the beast