onetotaltoolman
Member
Ok- about 1/3 done with a D14 rebuild. Now moving to the rear end of the tractor. Appearance tells me every seal on the rear of the tractor is leaking . With
that, i could find little info or vids on you tube or otherwise about removing the rear brake hubs. On this forum , there are posts expressing much anxiety over
this job. I am posting to pass along a couple of tips that i found helped substantially getting the hubs off the final drive axle. If like mine, most of these
hubs have probably never been removed, and yet its critical to do so to get at the seal that is behind the hub. Procedure : The hub has two 5/8 threaded holes.
Many of the posts say to pound on the axle until it backs out . Personally, i don't like beating on formed steel. My first shot at this failed miserably. (see
pic on warped 3/16 bas stock ). Laid that across the top of the splined alxe, used some all thread, and started cranking. No hub movement, bent the steel. Back
to the drawing board. Next idea worked well. Used some scrap 1/4 angle iron , boring holes for the all thread, and the spline to slip thru (pic below). A mag
drill is a miracle worker on this thick of steel, but a hole saw chucked up in a drill press will get it done. Now, heat the hub, and no, not cherry red. Use
your rosebud to get it hot, but not to molten steel. Apply your favorite penetrant oil, attach your new puller, and use your impact to alternate slow turns on
the nuts. You will hear pop as this hub starts to move. Continue and it will come out. (puller in pic was about to pull hub loose on the shaft) Now , don't
gleam with excitement that you have just split the atom. More to go. Behind the hub is the woodruff key and a round snap ring. I have two great snap ring pliars
and spent45 minutes trying to get the snap ring off. It is behind the woodruff key, and obviously inside of the housing. This is a near impossibility because of
your pliar angle of attack. These round keys are also something like $25.00 from the dealer, so don't do something to destroy it trying to remove it. Instead,
take a chisel, place it on the front of the key and give it a couple of sound wacks. It will jump right over the top of the ring. With that out of the way, you
can now pound the axle right out of the end of the hub, which will destroy the seal, but that's why your doing this anyway. So, hoping this helps anyone out
there. After spending 3 hours woring on this, i think i could get the other axle done in literally 10 minutes. More to come.
that, i could find little info or vids on you tube or otherwise about removing the rear brake hubs. On this forum , there are posts expressing much anxiety over
this job. I am posting to pass along a couple of tips that i found helped substantially getting the hubs off the final drive axle. If like mine, most of these
hubs have probably never been removed, and yet its critical to do so to get at the seal that is behind the hub. Procedure : The hub has two 5/8 threaded holes.
Many of the posts say to pound on the axle until it backs out . Personally, i don't like beating on formed steel. My first shot at this failed miserably. (see
pic on warped 3/16 bas stock ). Laid that across the top of the splined alxe, used some all thread, and started cranking. No hub movement, bent the steel. Back
to the drawing board. Next idea worked well. Used some scrap 1/4 angle iron , boring holes for the all thread, and the spline to slip thru (pic below). A mag
drill is a miracle worker on this thick of steel, but a hole saw chucked up in a drill press will get it done. Now, heat the hub, and no, not cherry red. Use
your rosebud to get it hot, but not to molten steel. Apply your favorite penetrant oil, attach your new puller, and use your impact to alternate slow turns on
the nuts. You will hear pop as this hub starts to move. Continue and it will come out. (puller in pic was about to pull hub loose on the shaft) Now , don't
gleam with excitement that you have just split the atom. More to go. Behind the hub is the woodruff key and a round snap ring. I have two great snap ring pliars
and spent45 minutes trying to get the snap ring off. It is behind the woodruff key, and obviously inside of the housing. This is a near impossibility because of
your pliar angle of attack. These round keys are also something like $25.00 from the dealer, so don't do something to destroy it trying to remove it. Instead,
take a chisel, place it on the front of the key and give it a couple of sound wacks. It will jump right over the top of the ring. With that out of the way, you
can now pound the axle right out of the end of the hub, which will destroy the seal, but that's why your doing this anyway. So, hoping this helps anyone out
there. After spending 3 hours woring on this, i think i could get the other axle done in literally 10 minutes. More to come.