onefarmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- 6735 S Lowell Rd, St Johns, Mi 48879
FYI the Ford 134, 144, 172, 192 are all of the same engine family.
The driveshaft to the oil pump has likely failed. It is a 5/16 hex shaft and they wear out causing the oil pump to no longer be drivenHi, I was driving my 1978 omc770 loader when I noticed some white smoke coming from the engine, (engine is behind driver). I checked it and thought is was a leaky headcover gasket. I drove a bit more and heard some squealing and drove another 50 yards to park it. I noticed the oil pressure was at zero.
I also noticed the harmonic balancer was loose and the bolt holding it to the crank was almost backed all the way out. I tightened it and started the engine and still no oil pressure and noise. Shut it down immediately. I'm trying to figure out where to start before I pull the engine. Thanks for your help!
1. Does this sound like a rod bearing?
Can I fix this without removing the engine?
2. Does the harmonic balancer have anything to do with this?
3. What could have caused the loss of oil pressure?
Had all those fun issues with mine. Crankshaft snapped but luckily the block was still good. Had the engine totally rebuilt.Hi, I was driving my 1978 omc770 loader when I noticed some white smoke coming from the engine, (engine is behind driver). I checked it and thought is was a leaky headcover gasket. I drove a bit more and heard some squealing and drove another 50 yards to park it. I noticed the oil pressure was at zero.
I also noticed the harmonic balancer was loose and the bolt holding it to the crank was almost backed all the way out. I tightened it and started the engine and still no oil pressure and noise. Shut it down immediately. I'm trying to figure out where to start before I pull the engine. Thanks for your help!
1. Does this sound like a rod bearing?
Can I fix this without removing the engine?
2. Does the harmonic balancer have anything to do with this?
3. What could have caused the loss of oil pressure?
Hard copy can be got on Ebay for around $20. one exampleCheck out the glitter on the oil pump, (motor is flipped on the stand). Does anyone have a pdf manual for the Ford 172 diesel?
Thanks. I bought a pdfHard copy can be got on Ebay for around $20. one example
ALEXANDER'S 800 231 6876...BE BLESSED, GRATEFUL, PREPARED...A friend of mine found this: View attachment 63446
I imagine the distributor is substituted for injection pump in the diesels.
I need this loader/forklift up and running asap. Is it worth rebuilding? Where would I find a replacement motor? Is there a different type of motor that others have swapped out for the Ford 172?
Thanks for all the responses!
sum.sing.apund!!Check out the glitter on the oil pump, (motor is flipped on the stand). Does anyone have a pdf manual for the Ford 172 diesel?
View attachment 64262
You could have the crank turned .010 under. Then you still have all the metal through the motor. You could probably blow out a lot out of the passages , but still not get it all, what is left should be caught in the filter, and do A couple oil changes. That's what I would do StanI spun the number 1 and 4 connecting rod bearing. The main bearings, the cylinders, and valves look okay. The cause was a rounded off injection pump/oil pump rod.
What are my options here? Do you think I could get by with throwing a new set of connecting rod bearings and getting the crankshaft machined or buy a new crankshaft?
I'd love to save some money and avoid a complete rebuild because I don't use this 45 year old wheel loader forklift often. I do need it though. Thanks in advance
You can’t put bearings on those scored crank journals, you will back doing this again after 10 hours of run time or less. The crankshaft will need to be ground undersize as Chief said. Any rod that the bearings spun in will need resized or replaced, they should all be taken to the shop that grinds you crank and checked/repaired as needed. Do you just have the crank pulled out of the bottom and the head still on. When you pull that off there is a good chance you will find scored cylinder walls from lack of lubrication. I am pretty sure this engine does have a full flow filter oil system so there is a lesser chance filings and debris are in the oil passages, in fact the oil pump was stopped or barely spinning so nothing was getting pumped around. The block and all parts will need a thorough cleaning. This is one of those unfortunate “surprIse” failures, an idiot light would have possibly helped you discover the problem sooner.I spun the number 1 and 4 connecting rod bearing. The main bearings, the cylinders, and valves look okay. The cause was a rounded off injection pump/oil pump rod.
What are my options here? Do you think I could get by with throwing a new set of connecting rod bearings and getting the crankshaft machined or buy a new crankshaft?
I'd love to save some money and avoid a complete rebuild because I don't use this 45 year old wheel loader forklift often. I do need it though. Thanks in advance
I have the entire engine disassembled. The cylinders look decent.You can’t put bearings on those scored crank journals, you will back doing this again after 10 hours of run time or less. The crankshaft will need to be ground undersize as Chief said. Any rod that the bearings spun in will need resized or replaced, they should all be taken to the shop that grinds you crank and checked/repaired as needed. Do you just have the crank pulled out of the bottom and the head still on. When you pull that off there is a good chance you will find scored cylinder walls from lack of lubrication. I am pretty sure this engine does have a full flow filter oil system so there is a lesser chance filings and debris are in the oil passages, in fact the oil pump was stopped or barely spinning so nothing was getting pumped around. The block and all parts will need a thorough cleaning. This is one of those unfortunate “surprIse” failures, an idiot light would have possibly helped you discover the problem sooner.
i am a mechanic, and due to the cost to get that engine redone, i would look for another engine before spending thousands of dollars on that. you need it disassembled to the bare block and start from scratch with cleaning all bores. u should be able to find a running engine for around 1k. or less depending.
I'm in Arizona and can't find anything. I definitely can't find a diesel engine for around $1,000i am a mechanic, and due to the cost to get that engine redone, i would look for another engine before spending thousands of dollars on that. you need it disassembled to the bare block and start from scratch with cleaning all bores. u should be able to find a running engine for around 1k. or less depending.
You are right about the oil passages, being fairly clean, because the pump stopped turning. StanYou can’t put bearings on those scored crank journals, you will back doing this again after 10 hours of run time or less. The crankshaft will need to be ground undersize as Chief said. Any rod that the bearings spun in will need resized or replaced, they should all be taken to the shop that grinds you crank and checked/repaired as needed. Do you just have the crank pulled out of the bottom and the head still on. When you pull that off there is a good chance you will find scored cylinder walls from lack of lubrication. I am pretty sure this engine does have a full flow filter oil system so there is a lesser chance filings and debris are in the oil passages, in fact the oil pump was stopped or barely spinning so nothing was getting pumped around. The block and all parts will need a thorough cleaning. This is one of those unfortunate “surprIse” failures, an idiot light would have possibly helped you discover the problem sooner.
get on the phone , start your price quote then,... rebuilt crank and brgs, gaskets and so on. takes some looking but there has to be used engines out there. but its your money.I'm in Arizona and can't find anything. I definitely can't find a diesel engine for around $1,000
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