Ford 172 diesel squealing noise, no oil pressure, loose harmonic balancer bolt, and white smoke out of breather

[onefarmer]

FYI the Ford 134, 144, 172, 192 are all of the same engine family.

 

[LarrySTN]

Hi, I was driving my 1978 omc770 loader when I noticed some white smoke coming from the engine, (engine is behind driver). I checked it and thought is was a leaky headcover gasket. I drove a bit more and heard some squealing and drove another 50 yards to park it. I noticed the oil pressure was at zero.
I also noticed the harmonic balancer was loose and the bolt holding it to the crank was almost backed all the way out. I tightened it and started the engine and still no oil pressure and noise. Shut it down immediately. I'm trying to figure out where to start before I pull the engine. Thanks for your help!

1. Does this sound like a rod bearing?
Can I fix this without removing the engine?

2. Does the harmonic balancer have anything to do with this?

3. What could have caused the loss of oil pressure?

The driveshaft to the oil pump has likely failed. It is a 5/16 hex shaft and they wear out causing the oil pump to no longer be driven

 

[Vito]

Hi, I was driving my 1978 omc770 loader when I noticed some white smoke coming from the engine, (engine is behind driver). I checked it and thought is was a leaky headcover gasket. I drove a bit more and heard some squealing and drove another 50 yards to park it. I noticed the oil pressure was at zero.
I also noticed the harmonic balancer was loose and the bolt holding it to the crank was almost backed all the way out. I tightened it and started the engine and still no oil pressure and noise. Shut it down immediately. I'm trying to figure out where to start before I pull the engine. Thanks for your help!

1. Does this sound like a rod bearing?
Can I fix this without removing the engine?

2. Does the harmonic balancer have anything to do with this?

3. What could have caused the loss of oil pressure?

Had all those fun issues with mine. Crankshaft snapped but luckily the block was still good. Had the engine totally rebuilt.

Vito

 

[Woodtractor1]

Check out the glitter on the oil pump, (motor is flipped on the stand). Does anyone have a pdf manual for the Ford 172 diesel?

 

[J.Wondergem]

That's just what you can see. Those flakes will be in all your oil ports too.

 

[onefarmer]

Check out the glitter on the oil pump, (motor is flipped on the stand). Does anyone have a pdf manual for the Ford 172 diesel?

Hard copy can be got on Ebay for around $20. one example

 

[Woodtractor1]

Hard copy can be got on Ebay for around $20. one example

Thanks. I bought a pdf

 

[Vito]

If that was gold you would be rich. When you have it at the machine shop change the rod bolts to APR ones. They will have to enlarge the holes a bit. The originals have a tendency to stretch. My rebuilder also balanced everything.

Vito

 

[NIK OWEN]

A friend of mine found this: View attachment 63446
I imagine the distributor is substituted for injection pump in the diesels.

I need this loader/forklift up and running asap. Is it worth rebuilding? Where would I find a replacement motor? Is there a different type of motor that others have swapped out for the Ford 172?

Thanks for all the responses!

ALEXANDER'S 800 231 6876...BE BLESSED, GRATEFUL, PREPARED...

 

[used red MN]

Check out the glitter on the oil pump, (motor is flipped on the stand). Does anyone have a pdf manual for the Ford 172 diesel?
View attachment 64262

sum.sing.apund!!

 

[Woodtractor1]

I spun the number 1 and 4 connecting rod bearing. The main bearings, the cylinders, and valves look okay. The cause was a rounded off injection pump/oil pump rod.

What are my options here? Do you think I could get by with throwing a new set of connecting rod bearings and getting the crankshaft machined or buy a new crankshaft?

I'd love to save some money and avoid a complete rebuild because I don't use this 45 year old wheel loader forklift often. I do need it though. Thanks in advance

 

[37chief]

I spun the number 1 and 4 connecting rod bearing. The main bearings, the cylinders, and valves look okay. The cause was a rounded off injection pump/oil pump rod.

What are my options here? Do you think I could get by with throwing a new set of connecting rod bearings and getting the crankshaft machined or buy a new crankshaft?

I'd love to save some money and avoid a complete rebuild because I don't use this 45 year old wheel loader forklift often. I do need it though. Thanks in advance

You could have the crank turned .010 under. Then you still have all the metal through the motor. You could probably blow out a lot out of the passages , but still not get it all, what is left should be caught in the filter, and do A couple oil changes. That's what I would do Stan

 

[used red MN]

I spun the number 1 and 4 connecting rod bearing. The main bearings, the cylinders, and valves look okay. The cause was a rounded off injection pump/oil pump rod.

What are my options here? Do you think I could get by with throwing a new set of connecting rod bearings and getting the crankshaft machined or buy a new crankshaft?

I'd love to save some money and avoid a complete rebuild because I don't use this 45 year old wheel loader forklift often. I do need it though. Thanks in advance

You can’t put bearings on those scored crank journals, you will back doing this again after 10 hours of run time or less. The crankshaft will need to be ground undersize as Chief said. Any rod that the bearings spun in will need resized or replaced, they should all be taken to the shop that grinds you crank and checked/repaired as needed. Do you just have the crank pulled out of the bottom and the head still on. When you pull that off there is a good chance you will find scored cylinder walls from lack of lubrication. I am pretty sure this engine does have a full flow filter oil system so there is a lesser chance filings and debris are in the oil passages, in fact the oil pump was stopped or barely spinning so nothing was getting pumped around. The block and all parts will need a thorough cleaning. This is one of those unfortunate “surprIse” failures, an idiot light would have possibly helped you discover the problem sooner.

 

[miangus]

Just my opinion but that crank needs turning and that block needs a complete and thorough cleaning. I am assuming from the pictures that you have it out of the loader. That is a rather common engine maybe a crank kit would be the best solution.

 

[rustred]

i am a mechanic, and due to the cost to get that engine redone, i would look for another engine before spending thousands of dollars on that. you need it disassembled to the bare block and start from scratch with cleaning all bores. u should be able to find a running engine for around 1k. or less depending.

 

[Woodtractor1]

You can’t put bearings on those scored crank journals, you will back doing this again after 10 hours of run time or less. The crankshaft will need to be ground undersize as Chief said. Any rod that the bearings spun in will need resized or replaced, they should all be taken to the shop that grinds you crank and checked/repaired as needed. Do you just have the crank pulled out of the bottom and the head still on. When you pull that off there is a good chance you will find scored cylinder walls from lack of lubrication. I am pretty sure this engine does have a full flow filter oil system so there is a lesser chance filings and debris are in the oil passages, in fact the oil pump was stopped or barely spinning so nothing was getting pumped around. The block and all parts will need a thorough cleaning. This is one of those unfortunate “surprIse” failures, an idiot light would have possibly helped you discover the problem sooner.

I have the entire engine disassembled. The cylinders look decent.

i am a mechanic, and due to the cost to get that engine redone, i would look for another engine before spending thousands of dollars on that. you need it disassembled to the bare block and start from scratch with cleaning all bores. u should be able to find a running engine for around 1k. or less depending.

 

[Woodtractor1]

i am a mechanic, and due to the cost to get that engine redone, i would look for another engine before spending thousands of dollars on that. you need it disassembled to the bare block and start from scratch with cleaning all bores. u should be able to find a running engine for around 1k. or less depending.

I'm in Arizona and can't find anything. I definitely can't find a diesel engine for around $1,000

 

[37chief]

You can’t put bearings on those scored crank journals, you will back doing this again after 10 hours of run time or less. The crankshaft will need to be ground undersize as Chief said. Any rod that the bearings spun in will need resized or replaced, they should all be taken to the shop that grinds you crank and checked/repaired as needed. Do you just have the crank pulled out of the bottom and the head still on. When you pull that off there is a good chance you will find scored cylinder walls from lack of lubrication. I am pretty sure this engine does have a full flow filter oil system so there is a lesser chance filings and debris are in the oil passages, in fact the oil pump was stopped or barely spinning so nothing was getting pumped around. The block and all parts will need a thorough cleaning. This is one of those unfortunate “surprIse” failures, an idiot light would have possibly helped you discover the problem sooner.

You are right about the oil passages, being fairly clean, because the pump stopped turning. Stan

 

[rustred]

I'm in Arizona and can't find anything. I definitely can't find a diesel engine for around $1,000

get on the phone , start your price quote then,... rebuilt crank and brgs, gaskets and so on. takes some looking but there has to be used engines out there. but its your money.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

If it ran good when it started knocking then don’t bother with a full rebuild, especially if you don’t use it often. Just turn the crank and recondition the rods and a set of rings to freshen it up.
I would recommend a full disassemble , though, to get all the metal out.