2nb

Member
Good afternoon. I just picked up a 1993 3230. I'll use this thread to ask questions as they come my way. Here it is:

https://files.catbox.moe/slb9oa.jpg


So far I've changed the oil, adjusted the throttle so the hand/foot throttles play nice, and greased as many zerks as I could find. I also removed the front bumper (personal aesthetic preference) and yellow triangle (I will never drive on a road).

It runs great and everything seems to work. Except the tach. So I have no idea how many hours is on it but definitely more than the 1410 listed. I've ordered a new instrument cluster from this site.

Questions:
- If I want to run my PTO chipper before I get a working tach is there a good way to estimate RPM? Or just do what sounds okay? Or just hold off?
- Is there a good video or guide on purging the water separator / bleeding the fuel? The manual is a little unclear.
- I get a mild whirring noise when the clutch is let out and in neutral. Is this normal, problematic, or somewhere in between?
- I want to get a hydraulic top link. How do I know what link and hoses to order? (I'm somewhat new to tractors)
- Any vital maintenance I need to do? Oil is gtg, and miraculously the transmission fluid is crystal clear. The manual implies you need to replace injectors yearly--is that for real?

- Finally, are there any online resources for these things? I'm coming up empty handed when I search _anything_ for this tractor and it's incredibly frustrating. For example, my oil filter. I couldn't find a single site online that had oil filter lookups and I eventually worked my way backwards from a bunch of breadcrumbs leading from a '70 dodge charger to a M1 filter at autozone (that appears to be working perfectly by the way). I'm used to model-specific or at least model-range-specific car and truck forums, and with this tractor, it feels like Ford sold ten of them or something. It's kind of bizarre to me.

This post was edited by 2nb on 03/21/2023 at 03:02 pm.
 
Check the tach cable, may not be hooked up or broke. Bottom of the fuel filters should have a drain cap, loosen and liquid should drip out.

Check hydraulic and differential compartments for oil quality/quantity.

Clutch is out... a little uncleaar. Whirring when clutch is depressed may indicate a throw out bearing issue. Perhaps others can help out.

Hard starting, lack of power may indicate injector service. Clean fuel, air, lube oil will go a long to happiness. Diesels like to get hot and worked, not idling in a parade.
 
Here is a link to the online Ford 3230 parts book at MyCNHiStore. You can get the OEM filter numbers from the parts book and cross them at most any brand filter site, or at your local parts store.

https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/n...rpose/cn/8BF5724F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6

Here is a link to the WIX filter site. Their APPLICATION LOOKUP includes off road equipment.

https://www.wixfilters.com/

For many equipment parts it is best to use a parts book to get the OEM part numbers and use those to search. In general you will not find the dropdown type application lists you see for cars and trucks.

As for using your chipper before you get a working tach, don't worry about a tach, many tractor never were equipped with a tach. Open it up 3/4 throttle or a bit better and run it if it seems to slow down too much, give it a bit more throttle.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 03/21/2023 at 04:20 pm.
 
(quoted from post at 15:50:47 03/21/23) Check the tach cable, may not be hooked up or broke.

The tach cable is hooked up. Actually I should have checked if there was rotation though, before ordering a new cluster.

Bottom of the fuel filters should have a drain cap, loosen and liquid should drip out.

The manual describes a bleed procedure post-draining. Are you saying I should not need to do that? Or are you speculating


Clutch is out... a little uncleaar. Whirring when clutch is depressed may indicate a throw out bearing issue. Perhaps others can help out.

I've decided it's the throw-out-bearing and will probably last for decades as-is.
 
(quoted from post at 16:11:11 03/21/23) Here is a link to the online Ford 3230 parts book at MyCNHiStore. You can get the OEM filter numbers from the parts book and cross them at most any brand filter site, or at your local parts store.

Really interesting, I'm looking into this.

Here is a link to the WIX filter site

Yep, actually this is part of what helped me find the right mobil1 filter. lol.

As for using your chipper before you get a working tach, don't worry about a tach, many tractor never were equipped with a tach. Open it up 3/4 throttle or a bit better and run it if it seems to slow down too much, give it a bit more throttle.

Yep you are totally right. I took it over to my neighbor's and he schooled me on that. Not rocket science.
 

Your 3230 is basically the same as a 3930 with a derated engine making a little less hp

A standard Ford FL1A oil filter is what your tractor uses
I drain and clean the fuel separator once a year when I change fuel filters

You do not have to change injectors once a year, you should get 10-15 years or more out of the injectors

Very likely the short stub cable is broke that drives the tach
 
That tractor is newer than the Fords I'm
familiar with but the tach is likely
driven from an angled drive under the
engine oil filter.
Inside that drive is a short cable - about
4in long. Loosen the bolt on top of the
drive to get at it.
I haven't had a working tach in years. 540
pto rpms isn't a magic number. Just set it
about 3/4 throttle and you will be good.
 
(quoted from post at 15:00:59 03/21/23) Good afternoon. I just picked up a 1993 3230. I'll use this thread to ask questions as they come my way. Here it is:

https://files.catbox.moe/slb9oa.jpg


So far I've changed the oil, adjusted the throttle so the hand/foot throttles play nice, and greased as many zerks as I could find. I also removed the front bumper (personal aesthetic preference) and yellow triangle (I will never drive on a road).

It runs great and everything seems to work. Except the tach. So I have no idea how many hours is on it but definitely more than the 1410 listed. I've ordered a new instrument cluster from this site.

Questions:
- If I want to run my PTO chipper before I get a working tach is there a good way to estimate RPM? Or just do what sounds okay? Or just hold off?
- Is there a good video or guide on purging the water separator / bleeding the fuel? The manual is a little unclear.
- I get a mild whirring noise when the clutch is let out and in neutral. Is this normal, problematic, or somewhere in between?
- I want to get a hydraulic top link. How do I know what link and hoses to order? (I'm somewhat new to tractors)
- Any vital maintenance I need to do? Oil is gtg, and miraculously the transmission fluid is crystal clear. The manual implies you need to replace injectors yearly--is that for real?

- Finally, are there any online resources for these things? I'm coming up empty handed when I search _anything_ for this tractor and it's incredibly frustrating. For example, my oil filter. I couldn't find a single site online that had oil filter lookups and I eventually worked my way backwards from a bunch of breadcrumbs leading from a '70 dodge charger to a M1 filter at autozone (that appears to be working perfectly by the way). I'm used to model-specific or at least model-range-specific car and truck forums, and with this tractor, it feels like Ford sold ten of them or something. It's kind of bizarre to me.

This post was edited by 2nb on 03/21/2023 at 03:02 pm.


Was the list showing the hours provided by the seller documenting various factors of condition?
 
Was the list showing the hours provided by the seller documenting various factors of condition?

That's quite a tortured sentence, but if I understand the question right, yes the (invalid) hours were on the sales listing.

I have some opinions on that. Either they knew and concealed it which is bad, or they didn't bother to check. Of course, neither did I.

Regardless, what's done is done and there's no use being bothered about it.
 
(quoted from post at 03:39:47 03/23/23) Try eating fewer beans and cabbage.

Oh, you're hilarious.

Another day, another tractor frustration. I want to get a hydraulic top link but I can't figure out what size hoses to buy. This is vital info that a manufacturer from any other industry would put in their owner's manual, but apparently tractor knowledge is arcane wisdom passed down only via oral tradition. So I won't be getting a hydraulic top link today.
 
I would get the top link & see what size pipe threads it has, then get hoses to match. Mine is 3/8". I also get hoses that are just a LITTLE bit too long so they have room to flex but not so long they can get caught anywhere.
 
(quoted from post at 09:08:29 03/24/23)
(quoted from post at 03:39:47 03/23/23) Try eating fewer beans and cabbage.

Oh, you're hilarious.

Another day, another tractor frustration. I want to get a hydraulic top link but I can't figure out what size hoses to buy. This is vital info that a manufacturer from any other industry would put in their owner's manual, but apparently tractor knowledge is arcane wisdom passed down only via oral tradition. So I won't be getting a hydraulic top link today.

Hoses would have no need to be any larger diameter than the cylinder thread size for the run as short as to a top link. A hydraulic top link doesn't need to move fast so 1/4" or 3/8" hose should work fine. As for end fittings you will have to match what the cylinder threads are and what thread the remote couplers that you plan to use have. The cylinder manufacturers generally tell what thread the cylinders have in their specs and you would have purchased the couplers, so you should know those threads.
 
Hoses would have no need to be any larger diameter than the cylinder thread size for the run as short as to a top link. A hydraulic top link doesn't need to move fast so 1/4" or 3/8" hose should work fine. As for end fittings you will have to match what the cylinder threads are and what thread the remote couplers that you plan to use have. The cylinder manufacturers generally tell what thread the cylinders have in their specs and you would have purchased the couplers, so you should know those threads.

This all makes sense, mostly.. I'm piecing things together.

Cylinder -> adapter -> hose -> remote adapter fitting

That last part though. How do I identify what remote adapter fitting I need? You know, the parts that actually connect to the tractor.
 
Any farm store - Fleet Farm, TSC, etc.... - will have them. Look for 2 sets (male & female) in the pipe size you are using. Most popular I believe are Pioneer style.

This post was edited by Lynn Patrick on 03/24/2023 at 09:58 am.
 
(quoted from post at 09:56:50 03/24/23) Any farm store - Fleet Farm, TSC, etc.... - will have them. Look for 2 sets (male & female) in the pipe size you are using. Most popular I believe are Pioneer style.

This post was edited by Lynn Patrick on 03/24/2023 at 09:58 am.

If I go down the hydraulics aisle at TSC I see various types of quick-connects in various sizes and and shapes.

Why is the tractor industry allergic to using specifications? lol
 
Look for a standard 1/2" body pioneer or ISO coupler. Usually available anywhere hydraulic hoses are sold (tsc, fleet farm, napa, tractor dealer, etc).
 
(quoted from post at 10:16:14 03/24/23) Look for a standard 1/2" body pioneer or ISO coupler. Usually available anywhere hydraulic hoses are sold (tsc, fleet farm, napa, tractor dealer, etc).

I was literally at TSC two hours ago. There, I found two 1/2" ISO couplers, both with differently-shaped tips (one was slightly smaller than the other).
 
(quoted from post at 11:02:49 03/24/23)
Hoses would have no need to be any larger diameter than the cylinder thread size for the run as short as to a top link. A hydraulic top link doesn't need to move fast so 1/4" or 3/8" hose should work fine. As for end fittings you will have to match what the cylinder threads are and what thread the remote couplers that you plan to use have. The cylinder manufacturers generally tell what thread the cylinders have in their specs and you would have purchased the couplers, so you should know those threads.

This all makes sense, mostly.. I'm piecing things together.

Cylinder -> adapter -> hose -> remote adapter fitting

That last part though. How do I identify what remote adapter fitting I need? You know, the parts that actually connect to the tractor.

Look for numbers and info stamped in the body of the remote couplers on the tractor and web search them to see what they are.
 

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