Ford 3230

[2nb]

Excellent. Okay I'm ordering parts today.

UPDATE here is what I got ordered:


CountyLine 3/8 in. x 24 in. Hydraulic Hose, SAE 100R2AT, 4,000 PSI
CountyLine 3/8 in. x 18 in. Hydraulic Hose, SAE 100R2AT, 4,000 PSI
2x -- Pioneer 1/2 in. Standard ISO Hydraulic Tip, 1/2 in. NPTF, Fits All Current Models, Poppet
2x -- CountyLine 1/2 in. Male Pipe x 3/8 in. Female Pipe Bush

I went slightly shorter on one hose because the ports are at different spots on the cylinder.

This post was edited by 2nb on 03/29/2023 at 07:20 am.

 

[2nb]

It must not just be my local TSC that's wiped out of hydraulic fittings, because none of my fittings shipped within their "24 hour shipment guarantee"

While I wait, I went ahead and hooked up my King Kutter. I bought it very used and while I think I got a decent price (800$), I don't really know enough to say so.

I first checked everything out. Greased the tractor-side PTO u-joint zerk and discovered there isn't one on the implement side, just a hole. What are the odds I can actually get a new zerk to screw in that hole? I wonder. Moving onto the gearbox I only found a normal (7/8") fill hole and what looked like maybe a drain hole? really small square fitting like 4mm or so. Anyway I stuck a finger inside the hole and came up dry so I dumped some gear oil I had laying around in. A second dip showed I accomplished about a 50% fill inside the gearbox. Good enough I suppose.

I then spent about a half hour wrestling with a well-used kutter trying to get the 3-point attached. None of my top link pins are long enough but it did come with a long bolt that worked. I had to hammer the crap out of it to get everything aligned--the support arms on the kutter are very old and bent up. I don't think I'll be able to use it a second time. A longer pin will solve this issue, so no big deal. Hooked up the PTO shaft, no challenges there. I set out to test it.

My observations:
- This thing is absolutely terrifying
- It starts up with a BANG, no matter how carefully I feather the PTO clutch
- I am afraid of this machine
- The PTO shaft has a bit of a wobble. It's hard to say how much. Not a ton, but enough to notice
- This contraption scares me
- A lot of the brush I'm wanting to clear is too low for the kutter to hit, and any of the higher stuff is too loaded with tree stumps etc. I think the sweet spot for this thing is areas that have already been cleared and you just need to knock back overgrowth periodically. I at least have enough of this type of brush to justify owning it.

I shut it off and came inside and learned that PTO shafts have to be "in phase". Not something I knew about before today so I went back outside and checked. It appears to be in phase--the inner u-joints are matched and the outer u-joints are matched (obviously).

I suppose I need to do some reading up on PTO shaft repair and maintenance, and also figure out how to maintain and repair the kutter and gearbox assembly.

How do people access the underside on these things? Flip them over with a winch? Or lift them on the 3-point?

 

[Jim.ME]

I apologize if I am misunderstanding but when you say, "A lot of the brush I'm wanting to clear is too low for the kutter to hit, and any of the higher stuff is too loaded with tree stumps etc.", it sounds like you want to break up brush, sticks, and limbs lying on the ground in an area that has be cut over/timber harvested. Rotary cutters are limited in that area, they are intended to cut standing growth. For that type of operation, you really need a mulcher. Some hammer flails will grind up brush that is down. If that is what you are up against you might consider having someone with a mulcher head clear the areas, then use your cutter to trim new growth as it comes up. Your Kutter should be able to be set to cut within 3-4 inches of the ground. You may want limiter chains to help hold elevation the same everytime you lower it, not just rely on the hydraulics to hold it from dropping too low.

As for the bang when it starts up. I don't find that uncommon mine will bang sometimes starting up as a blade sticks in a folded back position when stopping and breaks free as it comes up to speed. Vibrating during that time is not uncommon as it is out of balance until the blade has swung straight out.

If you lift it up to work under it with the three-point hitch, use solid wood blocking (no concrete cinder blocks) to block it up before you get under it. Jack stands will work if you have a solid surface to use them on. You may need do some experimenting to find the right blocking points if you block in two points instead of four, depending on the three-point hook up the front or back may not lower proportionately when blocked in just two places. Usually blocking tight right under where the three-point arms hook to the kutter works, always test by lowering the hydraulics and see if the kutter stays up. DO NOT TRUST THE HYDRAULICS HOLDING WHILE YOU OR ANYONE GETS UNDER IT. Some use their loaders to stand the kutters up and some flip them on their back. Some of that depends on the resources you have to handle it. Try a 1/4" -28 zerk in the u-joint hole, that is one common size. Other zerks common in u-joints are 3/16 and 1/4 drive in zerks, M6 drive in zerks, and M6 threaded ones.

Did you get an operator/owner's manual with it? If not post the model you have and someone might have or know where you can get a copy.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 03/30/2023 at 01:44 pm.

 

[2nb]

(quoted from post at 13:41:46 03/30/23) I apologize if I am misunderstanding but when you say, "A lot of the brush I'm wanting to clear is too low for the kutter to hit, and any of the higher stuff is too loaded with tree stumps etc.", it sounds like you want to break up brush, sticks, and limbs lying on the ground in an area that has be cut over/timber harvested. Rotary cutters are limited in that area, they are intended to cut standing growth. For that type of operation, you really need a mulcher. Some hammer flails will grind up brush that is down. If that is what you are up against you might consider having someone with a mulcher head clear the areas, then use your cutter to trim new growth as it comes up. Your Kutter should be able to be set to cut within 3-4 inches of the ground. You may want limiter chains to help hold elevation the same everytime you lower it, not just rely on the hydraulics to hold it from dropping too low.

As for the bang when it starts up. I don't find that uncommon mine will bang sometimes starting up as a blade sticks in a folded back position when stopping and breaks free as it comes up to speed. Vibrating during that time is not uncommon as it is out of balance until the blade has swung straight out.

If you lift it up to work under it with the three-point hitch, use solid wood blocking (no concrete cinder blocks) to block it up before you get under it. Jack stands will work if you have a solid surface to use them on. You may need do some experimenting to find the right blocking points if you block in two points instead of four, depending on the three-point hook up the front or back may not lower proportionately when blocked in just two places. Usually blocking tight right under where the three-point arms hook to the kutter works, always test by lowering the hydraulics and see if the kutter stays up. DO NOT TRUST THE HYDRAULICS HOLDING WHILE YOU OR ANYONE GETS UNDER IT. Some use their loaders to stand the kutters up and some flip them on their back. Some of that depends on the resources you have to handle it. Try a 1/4" -28 zerk in the u-joint hole, that is one common size. Other zerks common in u-joints are 3/16 and 1/4 drive in zerks, M6 drive in zerks, and M6 threaded ones.

Did you get an operator/owner's manual with it? If not post the model you have and someone might have or know where you can get a copy.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 03/30/2023 at 01:44 pm.

Thanks, all pretty solid points, and nothing really that comes as a surprise from my perspective.

 

[Jim.ME]

I just happened to think of this. You might want to start a new post, especially for new issues and questions. If you are using the Modern view, as I am, when you reply to someone in this post it moves the thread to the top of the list, so people see it is active and likely read it. For the folks using the Classic View the thread stays in the index list where it was originally posted in time, it does not move to the top. Right now this thread is almost at the bottom of page 3 in Classic and soon will be on page 4, many likely don't look back that far unless they are following something specific, so your new information, questions, etc. stand a chance of not being seen by some that could have valuable input for you. Just a suggestion.

 

[2nb]

(quoted from post at 16:13:52 03/30/23) I just happened to think of this. You might want to start a new post, especially for new issues and questions. If you are using the Modern view, as I am, when you reply to someone in this post it moves the thread to the top of the list, so people see it is active and likely read it. For the folks using the Classic View the thread stays in the index list where it was originally posted in time, it does not move to the top. Right now this thread is almost at the bottom of page 3 in Classic and soon will be on page 4, many likely don't look back that far unless they are following something specific, so your new information, questions, etc. stand a chance of not being seen by some that could have valuable input for you. Just a suggestion.

Maybe I'm mis-understanding but this sounds like normal and expected forum behavior. If there aren't any new posts, it should drop off. Anyway, I'm gonna keep using this thread as my personal blog until I lose interest.

Finally got the parts in for the hydraulic top link:

I'm not 100% in love with the hose routing but it flexes through all the range of motion properly so I think I'm good.

I had to guess at the order to plug things in. I suppose if I got it backwards the control lever would just be backwards?

How do you disconnect these things anyway? Jam a flathead into the recess somewhere?

Also this thing is category 2. What do I need as far as an adapter to stick in the end to adapt it down to cat 1?

This post was edited by 2nb on 04/06/2023 at 01:11 pm.

 

[Destroked 450]

Once this thread is a few days old anyone using classic view won t see it anymore unless they search back for it
New post does not automatically move the thread back to the top like modern view does

To disconnect shut the engine off, operate the remote lever in both directions to relieve any pressure and then give each hose a yank, they should pop out of the coupling

They make bushings to adapt cat II to cat I

 

[2nb]

(quoted from post at 16:19:13 04/06/23)
Once this thread is a few days old anyone using classic view won t see it anymore unless they search back for it
New post does not automatically move the thread back to the top like modern view does

To disconnect shut the engine off, operate the remote lever in both directions to relieve any pressure and then give each hose a yank, they should pop out of the coupling

They make bushings to adapt cat II to cat I

I'm not particularly inclined to break up my posts outside of a consolidated thread just because there are some folks on here that prefer to use a forum mode with worse functionality.

I'm aware of the bushings, but is there any sort of a semi-permanent sleeve I can install? That way I'm not constantly having to mess with a bushing every single time I swap implements?

 

[2nb]

You know, the entire mechanism of this forum is not great. I still don't know how to do a post without hitting edit. YT hit me up if you want some web consulting in exchange for tractor parts.

Today I drained the water separator. Never done something like that before. Was interesting to see the water come out and then turn to diesel. I then bled it but it didn't seem like it did anything and she started right up without missing a beat.

Did some testing of the hydraulic top link, making sure there would be no leaks or other issues. It's an absolute unit. I somehow managed to get the perfect dimensions on everything, and it has a TON of articulation in both directions without being too much. I would call this an exact fit. Then did some some driveway grading, everything is running great.

Still looking for a cat 2 -> 1 bushing that can screw in like a sleeve. Having to juggle a plain bushing each implement change will get annoying. I would surmise a lot of folks just let their implements bounce around in the top link.

 

[Jim.ME]

A small bead of weld around the bushing ends after it is installed in the Cat 2 end, does the trick.

 

[Destroked 450]

I have cat1 and cat 2 implements so carrying a couple bushings isn t a issue for me
Don t know of any screw in sleeves
If cat1 implements is all your going to use tack weld the bushing to the top link
You can always grind the welds off should you ever get something that uses cat2

 

[Sean in PA]

You might look for lower arms that have the ability to change out the balls. My '73 4000 can switch between Cat I and Cat II implements by simply swapping out the balls on the ends of the arms. The balls are held in by spring clips inserted into small holes drilled in the arms. I keep a pair of needle nose pliers and the other set of balls in the toolbox on the tractor, and it takes about 30 seconds to swap out the ball on each arm.

 

[Jim.ME]

I think he is only asking about the top link cylinder he installed, which is apparently for Cat 2.

 

[Sean in PA]

If you need to switch between cat I and cat II on the top link, keep the bushing that brings it down to cat I on the cat I pin, with the pin installed on one of the Cat I implements, and locked in place by the lynch pin. That way it will always be with your cat I pin.

 

[2nb]

If cat1 implements is all your going to use tack weld the bushing to the top link
You can always grind the welds off should you ever get something that uses cat2

Ah this is a solid idea.

I'm surprised no sort of screw-in sleeve exists, but tack welding the bushing to the top link is a pretty good fix.

I do wonder about the metalurgy involved, because the top link is chromed and the bushings all seem to have some sort of cadmium coating or something. Seems like a recipe for bad penetration and heavy metals poisoning. Definitely would want to run a good respirator for that.

 

[Sean in PA]

Another idea is to get a piece of flat steel and drill a couple of holes in it, one that you weld onto one end of the bushing, and another smaller hole that you attack a chain or wire to, and attach the other end of the chain or wire to the toplink itself so it is always there dangling nearby when not in use.

 

[Destroked 450]

If you don t want to weld it insert the sleeve and drill a hole thru one side of the top link and sleeve
The hole needs to be the proper size to install a roll pin, drive the roll pin in far enough to capture the sleeve and cut off the excess pin
If the roll pin goes in to fat use a drimble tool or small grinding stone to remove the excess
The sleeve is now captured in the top link but should you ever need to remove it just punch the roll pin out

 

[2nb]

(quoted from post at 07:46:57 04/09/23)
If you don t want to weld it insert the sleeve and drill a hole thru one side of the top link and sleeve
The hole needs to be the proper size to install a roll pin, drive the roll pin in far enough to capture the sleeve and cut off the excess pin
If the roll pin goes in to fat use a drimble tool or small grinding stone to remove the excess
The sleeve is now captured in the top link but should you ever need to remove it just punch the roll pin out

That's a stellar idea. I think I will go with that. thanks!

 

[JMOR]

"How do people access the underside on these things? Flip them over with a winch? Or lift them on the 3-point?" I lean mine up against a tree so that I can work on it standing up as opposed to crawling under. If you are concerned, chain it to the tree.

 

[2nb]

Tractor is running great.

One thing I've noticed is the gearshift is just so so as far as engaging gears.

How much of that is just normal behavior vs worn gears? For example, I can shift perfectly-- as in, totally stopped, clutch in and wait, and try to shift into a gear and I get the little grindyness. Not audible, but you feel the gears meshing a bit. Similar to what you would get with like an old honda with bad synchros going 2-3 if any of you know what I mean.

I could be convinced it came this way from the factory, and I could be convinced it's got gears with some wear on them. Thoughts?