Ford 4610 Fuel Filter Question

[Pine Hills]

Hi, I've recently taken over my fathers 1981 (I believe) Ford 4610 2WD with 6,400 hours. Due to deteriorating health he hasn't completed any servicing for quite some time (many years), but at the same time the tractor hasn't had a great deal of use.

One service aspect I want to complete is the front and rear fuel filter replacement. I have managed to track down an old operators manual which says the rear element should be replaced and that the front element should only be changed by a Ford dealer. Is there a good reason for this? I'm not too mechanically minded, but can I apply the same process for replacing the rear element as with the front element? The manual shows the steps to take for this rear element replacement.

Secondly, the current rear element is a Donaldson P557111. Is this filter sufficient to be used as both a front and rear element for this tractor? Does it have the correct micron rating?

Are there any other things I should be aware of when it comes to carrying out this maintenance?

Many thanks in advance.

This post was edited by Pine Hills on 07/23/2022 at 10:13 pm.

 

[Bern]

I've never seen a Ford operator's manual that states that a fuel filter has to be replaced by a dealer. Are
both elements the same, or does the rear filter contain a glass bowl? Either way, there's no reason in my
mind that you can't service them both. The glass bowl design is merely cleaned, not replaced.

 

[Check Break]

Add some biocide (BioborJF) to the fuel to prevent the bacterial growth some refer to as algae. It's probably as toxic as a herbicide so don't get it on you. Ultra low sulphur diesel promotes the growth of bacteria in diesel fuel. I found out the hard way. If you have a fuel filter cartridge on the right side facing the dual fuel filter group, you can buy an adapter to replace the cartridge with a spin on fuel filter. Adapter is WIX 24038. Filter is Napa 3996. These numbers cross to other brands. Once the adapter is installed, changing the fuel filter is quick and easy.

 

[Pine Hills]

Thanks for the reply. This model 4610 only has the two fuel filters and no glass bowls.

I've tried attaching the two pages of the manual, but I can't seem to make it work.

 

[Dopp Creek]

I use NAPA 3166 filters and change both of them at the same time. There is a square cut o-ring that the top of the filter seats against. Use a pick to get
the old one out and be sure you do not roll the new one as you fit it in. Same o-ring is used at the bottom of the filter but it goes in pretty easy.

 

[Pine Hills]

Thanks for the advice, I will invest in some biocide.

I have attached a photo of the current filters. So would I be able to replace these with spin on filters?

For some reason the system thinks I'm spamming when I try and upload photos. It won't let me attach any photos. Following the guideline in terms of size, extension, special characters, etc.

 

[Pine Hills]

Thats brilliant, thank you. I'll definitely keep that in mind re the 'o' ring.

 

[Check Break]

(quoted from post at 22:09:55 07/23/22)
So would I be able to replace these with spin on filters?

You could, but your left filter is normally a water separator, not a filter. There's spin on water separator's available and I have a couple, just haven't got around to installing them on an adapter to be sure they're better than the stock glass ones. Hope that's not confusing. Bottom line is someone replaced the glass water separator on the left side of your filter housing with a fuel filter.

 

[RodinNS]

Looking at the pic, I'd hazard to guess that it originally had a glass separator bowl in place of the rear filter... but this
works fine too. Unless you're dealing with a lot of water issues I'd probably just slap a pair of new filters on there and call
it good.
I generally use FLeetGuard FF167 filters. I buy them by the case for 6-7 bucks each. You could swap to a spin-on but I'd expect
that will cost you more for each filter, for no real gain. These are easy filters to change. Just pick the orings out and change
them, including the one on the stem. I tend to stay clear of the WIX/NAPA/CARQUEST filters.

Rod

 

[Destroked 450]

(quoted from post at 00:04:34 07/24/22) I use NAPA 3166 filters and change both of them at the same time. There is a square cut o-ring that the top of the filter seats against. Use a pick to get
the old one out and be sure you do not roll the new one as you fit it in. Same o-ring is used at the bottom of the filter but it goes in pretty easy.

The top o-ring is actually slightly larger than the lower ones, this is we re the common mistake is made of installing a bottom o-ring inside the top lip of the filter because it fits, whereas the actual top o-ring won t stay inside the filter lip or bottom cup

 

[Destroked 450]

Double post

This post was edited by Destroked 450 on 07/24/2022 at 12:40 pm.

 

[Bern]

I see you've added some pictures. I am truly stumped as to why the owner's manual insists that a dealer
change the front filter. I have never seen that before.

Also, that intake manifold does not look like any I've ever seen on a 4610. The cross section of the
manifold appears to be square, whereas every 4610 manifold I have ever seen has a round cross section
manifold.

 

[RodinNS]

Doesn't appear to be any hatching on the block either... Must be a 4000 engine.

Rod

 

[Bern]

A 4000 engine would explain the dual fuel filter without water separator. They also had the square section intake manifold.

Early 4610s did not have the hatched block, later ones did.

 

[shaun wallace]

My 69 5000 has same filter setup. No water seperator , no glass bowl, the only ones I have seen of that era were 1-65-3/68 that had glass bottom and service parts replaced them with that style bottom. The
later 87/9700 and TWs have see thru bottoms along with longer primary filter.

 

[Destroked 450]

Bern now that you mention it I thought they went to the round manifold when they changed to the oval port head on the -600 series

 

[Pine Hills]

Thanks Rod. I had a look a the specs of the Donaldson P557111 and its type is 'water separator'. Its efficiency at 50% is 6 micron. Donaldson also gives you an alternative to this which I'm guessing is the fuel filter not water separator (P502420). The P502420 efficiency at 50% is 74 micron.

So I guess that makes sense that the rear element is a water separator and the front element is the filter.

Looking at the photo in the manual the rear element doesn't look like glass but it does have a knob at the bottom which mine doesn't.

 

[Pine Hills]

Great advice - thanks.

 

[Pine Hills]

The decals on the tractor show 4610 but when my father purchased it he had a tractor dismantlers service it and repaint it. So they may have got the incorrect stickers.

How can I confirm what engine I do have? I can't find any letter/number combinations that much the serial numbers here on the site. Stamped above the oil pan is D735470.

This post was edited by Pine Hills on 07/24/2022 at 03:43 pm.

 

[Bern]

That is correct.

 

[Bern]

Judging from the casting dates, I'm going to speculate that you had a late 4000 engine put into an early
4610 tractor.

 

[Sean in PA]

To the right of the engine serial number, D735470, there should be another number that is the date code for the assembly of the engine.

Also, look on the underside of the right side hood panel, above the battery to see if the foil sticker is still there. If it is, post the numbers you find there. If the sticker is no longer there or it is no longer legible, look on the flat spot on the bell housing for the stamped model number, unit number and serial number.

This post was edited by Sean in PA on 07/24/2022 at 05:50 pm.

 

[Sean in PA]

(quoted from post at 20:13:18 07/24/22) Judging from the casting dates, I'm going to speculate that you had a late 4000 engine put into an early
4610 tractor.

D4NN is a 1974 casting design, so it could be the "new" casting design for the first round of 4610 engines. Unless there was some major flaw found, I doubt that they would come up with a new casting design for the 4000 series only a year before the end of the production run. Even if they did ude that casting on some of the last 4000's, they probably used the same design on the first 4600's as well.

This post was edited by Sean in PA on 07/24/2022 at 05:47 pm.

 

[Pine Hills]

Unfortunately no foil sticker it's long gone.

I think this is the code you're talking about AB 6010 5D21A.

In terms of the bell housing, is it this code that was imprinted to the front of the gearbox cover?

This post was edited by Pine Hills on 07/24/2022 at 06:36 pm.

 

[Sean in PA]

5D21A says that the engine was assembled on April 21, 1975 during the midnight shift. Since they were making both the 4000 and 4600 at that point in time , that information doesn't help much.

In terms of the bell housing, is it this code that was imprinted to the front of the gearbox cover?

No, that is another casting code. look on the right side of the tractor where the starter is. Just toward the rear of the tractor from the starter is the beginning of the bell housing. There are two large bolt holes in the bell housing joust above and rearward from the starter. Above those two large bolt holes is a flat spot. The numbers you are looking for are stamped into the flat spot. They are not raised casting numbers.

 

[Bern]

Highly unlikely they would use a 1974 casting design for a tractor series that came out in 1981. The main
reason I think it's a 4000 engine is because of the square intake manifold. Then of course, if the engine is
not original to the tractor, maybe the cylinder head isn't even original to the block.

 

[Pine Hills]

Hopefully this is it. From what I can best make out its DA314D at the top, followed by 1K28 in the middle and then B402054.

 

[Sean in PA]

DA314D is the model number. The DA3 at the beginning says that it is a 4610. The 1 means that it has a diesel engine. The 4 means that it has an independent 540 rpm PTO. And the D at the end means that it has an 8x4 synchro transmission.

B402054 is the serial number. The B at the beginning says that it was assembled at the plant in Basildon in the UK. There's not much info on the European serial numbers as to what serial numbers were made in which years.

1K28 is the Unit number, which is the date code for when the tractor was assembled. It decodes to October 28, 1981.

Since the engine was assembled in 1975, then it is not original to the tractor. Also, because it was made in 1975, we do not know for sure whether it was originally made for a 4000 or a 4600, but it definitely wasn't made for your 4610.

Highly unlikely they would use a 1974 casting design for a tractor series that came out in 1981.

Bern, I never said that it was made for a 4610. I said it could have been made for a 4000 or a 4600.

 

[Bern]

Sean, better go back and re-read your post from yesterday. This is what you said:

*D4NN is a 1974 casting design, so it could be the new casting design for the first round of 4610
engines*.

I'll assume now you meant 4600. No biggie.

 

[RodinNS]

They weren't making the 4600 until late into '75 as a '76 model. I can't remember the exact date of changeover, but it was often
October, but could be as late as December. By the date code on the engine, it would be a 4000 engine.

Rod

 

[RodinNS]

I think the P557111 crosses to the FleetGuard FF167 which is the fuel filter. 50% @ 6 micron is a lot tighter than 50% @ 74
micron. The separator filter is FF167A.
I believe Bern is correct in that you have a 4000 engine that had two filters, possibly one of each of these filters although
the fuel filter will fit and work on both. I would not use the FF167A only. Later years they used a glass separator bowl for the
water separator and one FF167 filter. Many models used only a single filter with no separator. I like the glass bowl. It's a
quick visual and on gravity flow models like this you can just crack the drain and run the water off, crack the bleeder and get
on with life. Personally I'd probably put a bowl on there rather than keep buying filters, particularly if you have a water
problem. The right height bowl will just swap out IIRC, or you can buy a bowl, diffuser and bolt. Or if you change filters once
in 5 years... leave it be.

Rod

 

[Pine Hills]

Thanks Sean, thats incredibly helpful and very interesting.

In terms of the engine are there any indications as to whether this was assembled in the UK or the US?

 

[RodinNS]

All engines after late '64 until the late 90's when they started using Fiat components were assembled at Basildon, UK. Looking at
the tractors serial number it also appears to be Basildon, but my eyes don't see the whole number clearly...

Rod

 

[Pine Hills]

Thanks Rod, that makes perfect sense.

In terms of the water separator should this always be the rearmost of the two elements? I'm guessing that is the correct way as opposed to having a water separator at the front? Or does it not matter?

Sorry not familiar with what IIRC stands for? I'll certainly see if I can get my hands on bowl, diffuser and bolt - less waste and far easier by the sounds.

 

[Sean in PA]

IIRC = If I Recall Correctly

 

[RodinNS]

Generally, the rear element was the water separator. However, I would not want to tell you that definitively. What I'd suggest
you do is close the tank shutoff... then remove both filters, then open the tank shutoff some... enough to see where the fuel
drains out. This is assuming you have 1/2 tank or more. You can also look at where the line from the tank enters the filter
head. It will be above the separator as it should come first in line. Looking at your pics again, it would appear the tank line
goes into the rear element, fuel then flows through the separator element, through a cross drilling in the filter head into the
forward filter and on to the injection pump. The outer line on the front filter is the return flow from the injection pump.
I don't believe it would be harmful if you reversed the filter and bowl, however, in order for the separator bowl to be of any
use it needs to be first in series to remove water and large particles with final filtration in the main element. If you
reversed them you'd essentially have a single filter system which was also quite common.

Rod

 

[Tigstoy97]

go to one of your posts and "edit" it, attach image.