Ford fuel Gauge

[Hobo,NC]

First the tractor numbers I come up with a 1970 2000.

B1023C
C279734

My neighbor sold me her tractor her son started on it and never finished. (Son Passed away she's selling the place) I got it together enoufh to trailer it to the shop.

I know it ran but needed some TLC he put a clutch in it I helped him mate it back together that's where he stopped. I got the power steering lines hooked up and checked the fluids I may fire it up tomorrow to make sure all's well before put the fuel tank and dash on it. I got busy in the shop so have not had much time to mess with it. I cleaned the fuel tank and prepped it for Por-15 last Sunday.

Fuel sender was a trip to repair most every connection was bad I solider them.

I was still getting wack-o-ohm readings WTF then I seen this wire from the pivot on the sender arm to the sender body so I tugged on it and it fell apart.

If I knew I could get the correct sender I would just buy one. This is what I came up with. I have a piece of the wire in a bottle of gas to make sure its gas safe.

For your info this sender and one off a 1980 545A read

Empty 210 ohms
Full 19 ohms

If all goes well the PTO seal is leaking it had a 8 speed and live PTO. I think I have read engage the PTO when removing it ?

The brakes are not good I had to stand on them hard to stop it when rolling it off the trailer. I know the right axle seal is leaking. I also know the right lower lift link is lose in the housing. Question do I remove the right axle housing are the left and slip out the differential to get to the lift pin.

I did get the por-15 in the tank today. I would have brought a new tank the last one I brought for a 545 did not fit well : ( Everything about it was a fight so I had rater fight the old tank : ) Side note one day I would like to try Red Coat fuel tank liner.

This post was edited by Hobo,NC on 07/01/2022 at 06:12 pm.

 

[Ultradog MN]

Looks like a decent tractor.
I like the cement mixer!
And wish I had your electric skills.
545 tank is for a 4000 chassis. Holds a
couple more gallons than a 3000. Should fit
but maybe some tinkering to it.
You'll need to make about a 2 1/2in socket
on a 20in? pipe to access those rear seals.
A 4WD shop can sell you the stamped socket
and weld it on yourself.

 

[Tom in Mo.]

I've used the Red Kote before with success on an old Ferguson tank that had hundreds of pinholes. It worked. I used Muriatic acid to clean the tank before coating.

 

[MarkB_MI]

Interesting pictures! Thanks for posting.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Daug, I got the axle seal deal down pat no problem. Lectric SKILLS nuttin to it unless you are fighting multiple ground problems. The sender seams simple tho its turned into an engineering marvel. Usually the resister bar has become open are the wiper arm had worn out. I have been bit so many times I go the extra mile to confirm operation of the sender before I button things up.

Ford truck I am replacing the tanks and pumps in now. (dual tanks)

I have had bad new senders are the sender hang up after install so make sure they are operational after I put the pump in. I try and find away to manually operate the sender arm like going thru the vent valve hole in this pix.

My first try because its a insert turn left fight the pick up screen thru the hole then rotate I knocked the sender arm off. : ( Just like tractor parts aftermarket parts are junk low bidder got the contract its not unusual these parts fail. I had to replace a sender in a 07 chebby truck this week I put in last September with a OEM part. The tabs on the wiper broke off. On my own Ford truck the sender has gone bad on the rear tank its a dual tank set up I doubt I have ran 500 gal of fuel thru it. Dag on JUNK!

Its been sitting close to 2 years no water in rear sump I got a little out of the transmission sump and the fluid was like milk. The floor was covered in oil I had took a large drain pan to him I remembered why I stopped at that point. I told him he had to dig the grease/dirt out to get to the clip to remove the drawbar pin.

PTO removal Engauge it before removal ?

Right lift arm pin get it from the left are pull the right axle housing. Either way I will go after both seals.

Where I am at now

 

[Hobo,NC]

I was working on starting it a fuel line had came apart behind the carb. It was a fight I don't remember having to fight and bend to align the line up so pulled the dist. and carb the original filter assy has been eliminated : (

 

[Hobo,NC]

While I had the carb off lets take a look inside. I had rebuilt it a few years ago just before he stopped using the tractor I thought the old dried up gas may become an issue so let look now. Its clean and no sign of gunk BUT what has happen to the fuel bowl. Looks like something made the factory coating release. It fell off when I cleaned and brushed it and gas does not dissolve it.

It did not affect the rest of the carb

 

[Jim Pollock]

I know the guy that invented red cote and he says it works great on a gas tank but not on a diesel. He said the red cote is actually resistant to diesel but there
is no way to get the oily film out of a diesel tank so sometimes is doesnt adhere to a diesel tank very well.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Good to know the extra tank I have came off a diesel. I used a Qt of por'15 in my tank after draing and sucking it out I had a little over haft left over. Before I started on the other tank it has already set up in the can and needed thinning so I will throw the left over p-15 away. Its not my first rodeo I like to have plenty.

I thought I would get it running this week end but NO little things got in the way one of them valves 1,3,5 are stuck. I messed with getting them working today #5 the worst of the bunch is working well the other two are putting up a fight they still are on the sticky side. The engine is clean the spark plugs were tan/brown the lift came up while cranking and a fitting that was not thigh leaked on the p/s that's all a good thang...

Back to the sender I changed my ground scream

After I got the sender all tided up empty 234 ohms
full 24 ohms.

sender in the tank its about the same

 

[Hobo,NC]

The thrill of victory I got it running late this afternoon every thing works so I can put it all back together and chase a few oil leaks at the rear of the tractor. I ordered two fuel Sediment Bowl assy for it both have an issue I got another one coming.

Note, why fight putting points in it the distributor falls right out mark it yank it and do the work on a table. I did not know they have a oil cup on the back side it would be a good time to add oil to the dist. When I get to where I can check the timing I may re-index this one its out of whack.

 

[Hobo,NC]

If a guy wanted to repair his original sender with a little modification he could replace it with this one. 2W1Z9275AB its out of a 2003 Ford Crown vic.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-fuel-gauge-sending-unit-2w1z9275ab?origin=pla

 

[Hobo,NC]

I got'er mobile pressure washed yesterday getting wet at 97 deg it was not that bad. I will get the dash on this week end in the shop next up brakes, axle seals, brake cross shaft seals, pull a trumpet and repair a loose lower lift pin pull the hydraulic cover and seal it and all the other stuff that goes along with stuff that.

The main thang it runs well and all works except draft control. Whoops got'ta fit a group 48 battery in there. So far I am missing one part so I made one.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I got all the tin back on it It has a working tack : )

I built a battery hold down for a group 48 battery new cables will come later I wanted to make a shake down run. Ha Ha bed rails I pull out of the metal bin at the dump. Experienced bed rails I spec.

The bad on the shake down run it shut off WTF the fuel pump is leaking there goes some more $$$ : ( I may not need brake cross shaft seals one of the bolts on the left inspection cover was not tight . Time will tell...

 

[Hobo,NC]

One of those jobs you Dred pin stuck in the lift arm yoke (mean and evil) I am going to pull the hydraulic cover go thru it, replace both axle seals and brakes, tighten up the right lower lift pin and put a new seal in the PTO shaft.

Y'all know I know not to beat on the pin it will swale well I must have got to mean with it. I could have took a saw saw to it : ) as a EZ out. Heat of no help I had it cheery red I drilled the end out about one inch and used a air hammer it was still a fight I got'er done.

To make matters worst the fender bolds put up a good fight. Its been hot I work on it a hour and call it a day. I got to the point all the rest should come apart with no problem. I have not replaced the fuel pump yet I wanted to get all the parts at the same time.

 

[Hobo,NC]

This pump'kin is a little more than this old man can man handle so pull the engine crane out of retirement. I am going to pull the lift cover it will be needed for that.

Right lower lift pin replaced ready to swing the pump'kin back in.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Repair manual reads square axle uses a retaining nut I am tooled up for that... Surprise surprise it has a retaining collar. it was all my 25 ton press wanted if I had it to do again I would have drilled in two places. For the record the collar is 1.118 thick drill baby drill.

cleaned up waiting for seals.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I got the rear back together other than I ordered the wrong brake shoes. I seen a trick on u-tube where a guy was doing a Massy 35 he used a tapped punch and drove it into the drilled out hole in the retaining collar to crack it. I had all ready drilled both sides it came off without much problem. The book says to heat the retaining collar to 800 deg You had better heat it till it turns orange are its gonna fight you.

No brake shoes I pulled the lift cover to go thru it.

If you don't have a torch and a 25 tone press when working on one you better stay on the porch.

Just another day in paradise

 

[Check Break]

(quoted from post at 18:37:19 08/16/22) The book says to heat the retaining collar to 800 deg You had better heat it till it turns orange are its gonna fight you. ... If you don't have a torch and a 25 tone press when working on one you better stay on the porch.

Orange is not necessary if you have a piece of Sch 40 pipe standing by. You slide the pipe over the axle and drive the collar down until it's tight.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Beat it on sounds good BUT

What happens if you are not successful at driving it back on with a pipe.

Do you understand these use a massive retaining collar not a small one like on other models.

The axle is ground on a tapper if you have to battle it you may stretch the collar.

Heat it and heat it for a long time I doubt you will get it orange but try and get it to start to tint orange. Life will be good.

On the bearing heat it in oil for at least 30 min. I use a hot plate set on high once it starts to boil turn it down to medium heat. Pack the area under the bearing well when you drop the bearing on the shaft it will push the grease up thur the bearing.

Yes I have had to beat both on in my mind I always have my doubts about it. I try and have a back up plan like a press to throw it in rat now are a tool to really get some good whacks on it. Its not a fight I enjoy.

Axle bearing/retainer driver

Living good get a few of these it will make short work of those stuck on lift cover gaskets and suck every one loves.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yt4TFIs5CMo

About where he is at at 31:14

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ES3wy3yx7g0&t=2066s

 

[Check Break]

Did a lot of them in the Ford shop. Torch wrench in one hand and pipe in the other. Never had one go bad. This was the official Ford dealer install method. It's not as crazy as it sounds after you see someone do it and it seats the collar properly.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I got in a few hours today finished up the lift cover pulled the hydraulic filters out clean then installed brake cross shaft seals. This may be the easiest work I have done so far no fire wrench are press needed.

Questions on replacing the brake cross shaft seals have came up its a pie job not bad at all. I put the seal in the left side install the shaft so it sticks out 1" on the right then install the seal this makes it easy to slip the seal past the snap ring groove without damaging the seal.

I used a common implement pin busing 1" I.D. to drive the seal in.

The OEM brake cross shaft dust seals a about 1/8" thick replacement are quite a git thicker I recommend you trim them down. I install them on the shaft use the implement pin bushing to push them on them cut them in haft with a new razor blade.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I got to go at it a haft a day almost done will put the rear wheels on it tomorrow. One of my pet peeves it when folks farmerize the check chains I hung some new jewelry (check chains) on it and a new steering wheel.

This is the third fuel pump I have put on a thousand series I think this one was the hardest that back bolt is a bugger.

You know you are in for a battle when this is the one that came off... To my surprise the fuel lines lined up on the new pump just like they were made for it.