Is this engine ready for rings?

[farmalldave]

Just driving around the yard maybe a parade stuff like that.

I thought u were going to hone them and do the measuring thing then u know if to spend big money or not. They don’t look that bad to me. And for just yard work it hardly justifies new sleeves and pistons. At least put a new ring at the top of ring travel then down at the bottom and that gives you a pretty good idea if they need to be replaced. If at the bottom u have .016 and .020 at the top you sure don’t need sleeves. Remember sleeves wear on a taper , with the most wear at the top so u understand what I am talking about.

Im still going to do that but need to pick up that tool. I figure pull the sleeves I'm sure the seals need replaced. Had oil working it's way up on cylinder walls while turn the engine over.

 

[rustred]

That’s why I posted to do the check with a new ring. That way no need to spend money on a use once tool. It’s the same result in the end. But it all up to u. U will need a hone also if u don’t have one. Will the ridge at the top of sleeve catch your finger nail ?

 

[farmalldave]

That’s why I posted to do the check with a new ring. That way no need to spend money on a use once tool. It’s the same result in the end. But it all up to u. U will need a hone also if u don’t have one. Will the ridge at the top of sleeve catch your finger nail

That’s why I posted to do the check with a new ring. That way no need to spend money on a use once tool. It’s the same result in the end. But it all up to u. U will need a hone also if u don’t have one. Will the ridge at the top of sleeve catch your finger nail ?

In some spots it does but other spots it's smooth up to the very top of the sleeve.

 

[rustred]

i am talking about the inside of the sleeve where the rings ride . at the very top about 1/2 inch down you should have a bit of a ridge. if it dont catch your finger nail the sleeve is still good for what u want to do. yes the outside will be rough looking from the coolant , but u need to check the o ring area for pits.

 

[farmalldave]

i am talking about the inside of the sleeve where the rings ride . at the very top about 1/2 inch down you should have a bit of a ridge. if it dont catch your finger nail the sleeve is still good for what u want to do. yes the outside will be rough looking from the coolant , but u need to check the o ring area for pits.

Ok I checked 3 out of the 4 my finger nail would catch and stop sliding.

 

[farmalldave]

Ok I checked 3 out of the 4 my finger nail would catch and stop sliding.

Actually the 4 one was just in one area but on the other side it was stopping my finger from sliding also. Seems like the ridge is not as pronounced on that one.

 

[rustred]

Actually the 4 one was just in one area but on the other side it was stopping my finger from sliding also. Seems like the ridge is not as pronounced on that one.

Just from experience and no fancy measuring I would say you have about .010 of wear. It’s not terribly bad. Myself I would just do rings and sleeve o rings and rod brgs and do the head and check the oil pump and call it good. It’s your call though. I have seen way more wear on sleeves. Thanks for posting

 

[farmalldave]

Just from experience and no fancy measuring I would say you have about .010 of wear. It’s not terribly bad. Myself I would just do rings and sleeve o rings and rod brgs and do the head and check the oil pump and call it good. It’s your call though. I have seen way more wear on sleeves. Thanks for posting

I think I'm going to order new sleeves and pistons for this tractor. Any info you guys think I'll need for the installation let me know. I'll send pics and ask questions if I get stuck during this process. Thanks for helping. I plan on dropping the head off at Napa tomorrow.

 

[old]

I think I'm going to order new sleeves and pistons for this tractor. Any info you guys think I'll need for the installation let me know. I'll send pics and ask questions if I get stuck during this process. Thanks for helping. I plan on dropping the head off at Napa tomorrow.

When you have the seals out the area where the sleeve seals go need to be cleaned up real well and also checked for cracks etc.

 

[caterpillar guy]

I would match the old sleeves up with the same piston in case you ever needed to put them in something or back in this engine in the future.

 

[Janicholson]

I would match the old sleeves up with the same piston in case you ever needed to put them in something or back in this engine in the future.

The existing ridge (fingernail catch point must be removed before a new set of rings are installed. the new rings will have a sharp edge that will catch on the ridge and break. (ridge reamer does that job). Google it. Jim

 

[rustred]

Actually I don’t believe those the ridges will break the top ring. There is not enough wear on them sleeves. Who here has actually pulled an engine apart to confirm that ? You would have to use a new piston and new rings so the ring has no up a down movement in its groove. The rings rocking in a worn out groove cause them to break. I have installed rings in engines without removing that ridge and nothing happened. And just turning the engine over u would feel it have resistance at the top.

 

[Janicholson]

Actually I don’t believe those the ridges will break the top ring. There is not enough wear on them sleeves. Who here has actually pulled an engine apart to confirm that ? You would have to use a new piston and new rings so the ring has no up a down movement in its groove. The rings rocking in a worn out groove cause them to break. I have installed rings in engines without removing that ridge and nothing happened. And just turning the engine over u would feel it have resistance at the top.

Well I ream them as insurance. it also lets a stone type hone work as designed. (not a Sunnen straight hone, just a plain 3 stone flexible. glaze breaker. Jim

 

[300guy]

I have seen the top ring and the ring lands broke because someone refused to remove the small ridge because the same as said here "Not necessary". A new very sharp ring will break very easily when jammed against the ridge an the speed it is traveling. Needless to say, when the ring broke and all the metal scraped off went through the engine, it cost the person a new camshaft, cam bearings, main bearings, rod bearings, 2 new pistons, and all new rings again. I think I would ream the ridge to be safe if nothing else.

 

[farmalldave]

Alright I got the sleeves out and removed the seals. I only had one sleeve come out as a complete seal. The others looked like a dog had got a hold of them in some spots. I would assume my next step is to remove all that sludge in the block. What is the best way to do that. All ideas welcome. And I ordered new pistons and sleeves seals and bearings. Thanks for all the info guys I appreciate it all.

 

[farmalldave]

Alright I got the sleeves out and removed the seals. I only had one sleeve come out as a complete seal. The others looked like a dog had got a hold of them in some spots. I would assume my next step is to remove all that sludge in the block. What is the best way to do that. All ideas welcome. And I ordered new pistons and sleeves seals and bearings. Thanks for all the info guys I appreciate it all.

Would using kerosene work?

 

[Janicholson]

Would using kerosene work?

Full strength cleaning Vinegar more than 2%. First use a piece of steel rod to break up what you can, then use a brush (and fresh air) to apply the vinegar, then rinse out. Keep the crank covered at each cylinder. Jim

 

[used red MN]

Some guys will cringe when I say this but only do this if you think you will have it back together and running in 3 days or so otherwise to much rusting might set in on the bearings etc. I would pressure wash it all out.

 

[Butch(OH)]

Some guys will cringe when I say this but only do this if you think you will have it back together and running in 3 days or so otherwise to much rusting might set in on the bearings etc. I would pressure wash it all out.

Of course it's better to take it all the way down and hot tank every thing. But nothing wrong with that idea for an in frame. Back on the farm we used to do it. Dad would get some Gunk from NAPA, spray the crankcase and then power wash the water jackets and crankcase. In the summer it was just left out in the sun to dry. In the winter he put a space heater under it. Agree it shouldn't set for months but nothing ever was hurt by doing it that ever presented itself.

 

[farmalldave]

Of course it's better to take it all the way down and hot tank every thing. But nothing wrong with that idea for an in frame. Back on the farm we used to do it. Dad would get some Gunk from NAPA, spray the crankcase and then power wash the water jackets and crankcase. In the summer it was just left out in the sun to dry. In the winter he put a space heater under it. Agree it shouldn't set for months but nothing ever was hurt by doing it that ever presented itself.