Just 8N's 12 volt conversion kit is a 1 wire...

[Douglas Lloyd]

Well, just got the 12V conversion kit from Just 8N"s and it is a one wire kit.

I"m doing this conversion to a stock "52 8N sidemount distributor with conventional points. It runs OK, but nothing fancy and the 6V battery is about gone.

The wiring diagram included with the kit is the same one that has been posted repeatedly for 8N sidemount distributors.

The alternator looks like others pictured in past posts - a 10si self exciting type, and it comes with the wider pulley already installed. Quality Tractor Supply Part #3000-0502. It has the large red BAT terminal and a rubber cap plug where the plastic wiring plug for the 1(R) & 2(F) connections would go. Looks like this would come out but haven"t tried to yank on it.

Searching the archives, back in July of 2011 there was some discussion about how to mod the 1 wire kit to a 3 wire setup. I could not find a diagram for this. There was also some suggestion that not all 1 wire alternators need to be revved up to start charging. Thoughts?

I already bought the Just 8N"s 3 wire diode wire to use with the kit, but still have the stock "fat sister" ignition switch (thank you Dell!) with no ACC position. Also my ammeter is the post style.

I want to do this one right. I don"t run this N at high revs unless necessary. I"d like to have this thing keep the battery charged when just puttering around the pastures. I can follow directions but I like diagrams. Do I install this kit as is, or go the three wire route?

Once again, this forum sure has helped me come to terms with Ford tractors and I appreciate the help.

Doug Lloyd
Kingston, TN

 

[Dell (WA)]

Doug........there is 'nuttin' wrong with the 1-wire 12V alternator conversion. Its made fer electrically challenged persons just like you. While you usually haffta "jazz" the engine to about 1800rpms (3/4-throttle) it is very momentary. And then it will charge at idle. As a matter of fact, you can run all day on yer 12V-battery without charging or hurting it.

Just remember to use a real 12V roundcan ignition coil like the NAPA IC14 which NEVER uses a resistor. ........Dell a 12V advocate for the right reasons

 

[mgriff543]

You may not need to rev the engine to get it to kick in. It really depends on the winding of the rotor and stator. To a lessor extent the type of regulator also contributes. There were dozens of regulators and amp ratings from 19 amps to aftermarket kits claiming well over 100 amps. If you happen to have a lower amp, well matched rotor/stator it will kick in immediately. Usually if needed, a small momentary boost of the throttle will get you charging.

That little rubber plug you mention will pry out of there but I wouldn't recommend it. Some 1-wire regulators don't respond well to being hooked up 3-wire style.

Bottom line is give it a try as a 1-wire, it should work well.

 

[NOXJohn]

I have converted three 8N using the 12 volt one wire alternator kit from this site or nnalert . The pulley on the alternator is small enough that the it starts to charge at a reasonable rpm. All three of mine start to charge at tractor start up which is less then 1000 rpms. The oldest is 4 years old and I have not had any problems. All three of mine came with the incorrect pulley installed but the correct one was in the box. Simple installation that works as intended. Since the small pulley is included there is no need to convert to 3 wire. You will not gain anything.

 

[Anonymous-0]

No need to jazz your engine with that kit.The small pulley will cause the alternator to excite itself at start up [600rpms].No need for the diode and three wire hook up either. don b

 

[souNdguy]

as the others said. you may or may not need to rev a 1 wire up.. all depends ont he specific alt.

also.. not all 1 wire vreg setups can be setup as 3. there are no connections to the spades on SOME of them. but can't hurt to try.

also.. keep this in mind.

EVEN IF you need to rev it up to START it charging, then you can lower the rpm's. once they turn on, they will stay on down to 400-500 rpm.. so you can idle around once she is charging, no matter which style it is.

soundguy

 

[Athrawn17]

When I got my alternator, there was a test readout that showed the RPMs necessary for my specific alternator to excite. Looked like a bench test readout. Did you get that in yours? If so, you should see the RPMs needed on that printout.

 

[douglloyd]

Thank you all for responding. Had not considered the effect of the little pulley. Makes sense.

I will start this project tonight after work. We have rain forecast off and on all week, sunny on Saturday.

thanks again,
Doug