1948 8N rebuild progress

Ordered some ARP studs for the mains. So I have new studs for the head and mains now.
I also ordered an assortment of old bolts from a parts tractor on ebay to hopefully replace a few of mine that were not in the best shape for the rest of the tractor.
 
Pump housing is clean and ready to reassemble. Thought about polishing the bottom but would need to buy another eastwood kit as im out of compound.

Only issue I see is the exhaust valve is a bit gritty when I compress it. Might take it apart too and see if it needs cleaned.
 

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Someone dropped one off in my backyard one time when I was on vacation. They thought I wouldn't notice. I loaded it up and dropped it off at another guy's place.
 
Put the pump back together today.

Heres a few things I noticed.
The brass pieces that go inside the yokes were a little different as they didn't have a notch to let oil in like the original ones. One of the chambers I had to switch the plugs to the other side because they are made for left or right. The springs for the valves were also a larger diameter vs the original ones for some reason and it had copper washers for the valve caps. I also had to put a washer behind one of the bolts that hold the chambers on because it was thinner in this spot vs the original and it was bottoming out.
 

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That's everyday for me. Make sure the pump fits over the ears of the PTO support.
And if it does not whats required to make it fit? Can I test this without the trans or diff housing? Starting to think I should of just reused the original chambers as they were not in bad shape.
 
And if it does not whats required to make it fit? Can I test this without the trans or diff housing? Starting to think I should of just reused the original chambers as they were not in bad shape.
Why it is an issue, some gaskets are to thin, the gasket sets the clearance. My guess on the difference with the parts is it may be a Ferguson up-grade as Ferguson used that style of pump after ford abandoned it. Their is not one thing wrong with that style of pump. Ferguson stayed with it and configured it to run as live hydraulics : ). Looking Good Keep on trucking.
 
Why it is an issue, some gaskets are to thin, the gasket sets the clearance. My guess on the difference with the parts is it may be a Ferguson up-grade as Ferguson used that style of pump after ford abandoned it. Their is not one thing wrong with that style of pump. Ferguson stayed with it and configured it to run as live hydraulics : ). Looking Good Keep on trucking.
Thats why I didn't change the springs or leave out the copper washers. Figured it might be an upgrade. Thanks.
 
What pin supposed to go in here?
Is this the correct one?

It does look to be the correct one.
Now I Need to see if I can find the bar that connects in there somewhere in the barn.
 

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Did not get much done today because I was trying to clean a spot for the parts washer. I live next door to my parents and I share this barn with my them.

I did get the shifter apart though so I can clean it up. The shifter looks worn and so does the guide especially where you go into reverse. Have not looked to see if any of these parts are available new yet.
 

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Wouldn't worry too much about the shifter gates; they just keep the shifter in the relative gear position. Your shifter is not badly worn at all. The one from my 48 8N was worn about 1/2 way through. I took measurements, welded it up, and ran it through the Milrite vertical mill to get the size correct. As long as it doesn't have too much slop in the gates, it will work properly.

No NEW parts are available, and used parts are hard to come by. A competent welder and machinist can repair that properly. zuhnc
 
Wouldn't worry too much about the shifter gates; they just keep the shifter in the relative gear position. Your shifter is not badly worn at all. The one from my 48 8N was worn about 1/2 way through. I took measurements, welded it up, and ran it through the Milrite vertical mill to get the size correct. As long as it doesn't have too much slop in the gates, it will work properly.

No NEW parts are available, and used parts are hard to come by. A competent welder and machinist can repair that properly. zuhnc
Ok thanks. I did see the spring and retainer are available but thats it. Looks like at one time you could get a new shifter with the threaded shift ball.

The original shift boot was actually still in decent shape. I put it on my 50 8N.
 
In addition to the shifter being badly worn, the retainer was about worn through. I needed four hands to get that thing off the shifter; quite a task. I have some pictures of the worn and reconditioned part somewhere on my phone. Need to get them off and published here! zuhnc
 
Been working on cleaning up the barn pretty much every day for the past week. Lots of progress there.

I did get some parts cleaner for the parts tank which did nothing for the old baked on sediment. Looking into making me a hot tank now.

I am also picking up the parts from the metal cleaners today and will post photos later.
 
Been working on cleaning up the barn pretty much every day for the past week. Lots of progress there.

I did get some parts cleaner for the parts tank which did nothing for the old baked on sediment. Looking into making me a hot tank now.

I am also picking up the parts from the metal cleaners today and will post photos later.
When it comes to cleaners most guys are sold on a color or a brand that they swear by. I have found that the chemistry is what makes it work and by far the most effective that I have found is D-limonene, which is a strong solvent, fortified with strong alkalinity such as potassium hydroxide. There are many brands of it available and many different colors.
 

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