Just acquired a 9N

It’s an old driveshaft. I don’t think it slides out. If it did at one time it’s rusted solid and won’t slide anymore.
The shaft needs to slide freely as the length changes as the lift raises and lowers. With pull type implements the length changes in corners as well.

Overlap of the sliding sections has to be in the proper range as well to allow for the length changes during operation.
 
It’s an old driveshaft. I don’t think it slides out. If it did at one time it’s rusted solid and won’t slide anymore.
I have a 5' Groomer...(Attaches to MF 35 or my JD 520)
The PTO telescopic shaft was seized....
I removed the attaching end of the PTO telescoping at the Groomer gear box...
Placed the PTO assembly in a metal work tank..
Covered shaft with diesel fuel..
Couple of weeks later...
Attached one end of the PTO shaft to a piece of Machinery that was not going to move...
The other end I attached a chain "Come-along" to the draw bar of my JD "D" steel wheels....
Telescoping PTO drive freed up.!!!!
 
If I had owned this driveshaft, that is what I would have done. I’m really big on preventative maintenance. Here are the pictures.
 

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I tried to use a brass punch and 3 lb sledge, then a slide hammer. I think it’s fused together.
Like mad said,,,use some heat. I would not give up on that pto shaft. Take it off the mower and stand it on end. Fill the groove with a gasoline diesel mixture. Tap, tap, tap. squirt a little more mixture and tap again. Repeat, repeat. I think you will get it.
 
Will do. Thanks gents.
If you get that implement PTO shaft to telescope, those oval, three lobed PTO shafts fit too tightly together to really take grease well. The outer piece fits with such tight tolerances, that it will mostly just push the grease off. I've had better luck with brush-on, copper-colored neversieze. Once you get it apart, use a wire brush to get all the rust off of the inside piece, then brush it with neverseize. I recoat our tedder PTO shaft (which is the same style that you have) with neverseize a couple of times a summer and once before I park it for the winter. (come to think of it... it's due...)

Also, do everything you can to get that telescoping tube to telescope, because it needs to... BUT... one thing that I tried once, and regretted... is using the tractor to try to telescope a frozen implement PTO shaft. The PTO will pull out of the tractor before that frozen Bush Hog PTO shaft telescopes. Learned that the hard way with an old Ford 641. I had to put the PTO shaft back in the tractor which required new snap rings, seals and such... AND I still needed to figure out a way to get the implement's PTO shaft to telescope... which required heat, penetrating oil and hammering

I have a "PTO dummy T-bar" fabricated at home for just such emergencies. Essentially, I welded a 1-3/8" male PTO adapter to the middle of a three foot long piece of steel. I have used it to hand-crank PTO driven implements during servicing /rebuild. And I can connect it to a PTO shaft that won't telescope... and use it to pull on it with come-alongs, or other methods. Even so... no amount of steady pulling force will do as much as some heat, penetrating oil and light hammering.
 
If you get that implement PTO shaft to telescope, those oval, three lobed PTO shafts fit too tightly together to really take grease well. The outer piece fits with such tight tolerances, that it will mostly just push the grease off. I've had better luck with brush-on, copper-colored neversieze. Once you get it apart, use a wire brush to get all the rust off of the inside piece, then brush it with neverseize. I recoat our tedder PTO shaft (which is the same style that you have) with neverseize a couple of times a summer and once before I park it for the winter. (come to think of it... it's due...)

Also, do everything you can to get that telescoping tube to telescope, because it needs to... BUT... one thing that I tried once, and regretted... is using the tractor to try to telescope a frozen implement PTO shaft. The PTO will pull out of the tractor before that frozen Bush Hog PTO shaft telescopes. Learned that the hard way with an old Ford 641. I had to put the PTO shaft back in the tractor which required new snap rings, seals and such... AND I still needed to figure out a way to get the implement's PTO shaft to telescope... which required heat, penetrating oil and hammering

I have a "PTO dummy T-bar" fabricated at home for just such emergencies. Essentially, I welded a 1-3/8" male PTO adapter to the middle of a three foot long piece of steel. I have used it to hand-crank PTO driven implements during servicing /rebuild. And I can connect it to a PTO shaft that won't telescope... and use it to pull on it with come-alongs, or other methods. Even so... no amount of steady pulling force will do as much as some heat, penetrating oil and light hammering.
Lots of good info. Thank you very much.
 
Ok so this thing is fused and I need to mow the field before it gets cold and icy.

If I’m to go buy a new driveshaft what does everyone recommend? I called tractor supply and they want $300 and up.
 
Ok so this thing is fused and I need to mow the field before it gets cold and icy.

If I’m to go buy a new driveshaft what does everyone recommend? I called tractor supply and they want $300 and up.
You have an overrunning clutch on your tractor; which is a great thing.

With that, all that you have to really worry about is how much force the tractor can put on the PTO assembly.

I guess what I'm saying is... your N will run the mower just fine... and is rated for under 25 PTO Horsepower; which just about any PTO assembly can take... what you really need to take care of is your N. If your tractor starts to struggle, lift the mower, take smaller "bites", as in less than a full mower width... take a chainsaw or lopper to brush that either has many stems or single thick stems...

Listen to the tractor, and let it be your guide. You can either carefully mow many acres for many, many years with little trouble... or go out and overheat it in five minutes... depending on conditions and your care.

My guess is, any PTO assembly that you buy that fits the drive shaft on the mower will be able to handle your N tractor driving it.

You can price as a whole assembly... or you could get the telescoping section alone with yokes at each end that will mate up to your existing cross sizes within the knuckles at both ends. You could re-use the crosses... in theory... or get new crosses for about 50 bucks each.
 
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Also... you have a Sherman tranny... if it is a step-up... run your mower with the transmission in the normal setting (not stepped up)...


The way these old trannys work... the stepped-up speed applies to both the rear wheel speed and the PTO... which will mean that your max PTO RPM is in the 800RPM range stepped up... as opposed to the implement's design speed of 540RPM.

Yes... I have broken that rule, here and there, with a finish mower... making a final, easy cut... you get a really crisp cut with those finish mower blade tips humming at 800-900 PTO RPM, lol...

But it would be a bad idea with heavy bush-hogging.
 
Also... you have a Sherman tranny... if it is a step-up... run your mower with the transmission in the normal setting (not stepped up)...


The way these old trannys work... the stepped-up speed applies to both the rear wheel speed and the PTO... which will mean that your max PTO RPM is in the 800RPM range stepped up... as opposed to the implement's design speed of 540RPM.

Yes... I have broken that rule, here and there, with a finish mower... making a final, easy cut... you get a really crisp cut with those finish mower blade tips humming at 800-900 PTO RPM, lol...

But it would be a bad idea with heavy bush-hogging.
All good info. Thank you very much. I’ve still got a lot to learn.
 
I got off the phone is Chickasha Industrial and I’m going to have them make me a new pto shaft. I think I’ll get longer use out of it. It’s only like 25 more than buying it on Amazon and then possibly fighting a Chinese made one and getting frustrated.
 
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