Kinda new here . . .

[Bruze]

Hi, I just registered, although I'm quite sure I was a member here 20-some years ago -- but that info is lost.

I have a T020 that I bought in 1977, and in 2001 it had a stuck valve that went through the piston so I rebuilt everything, although did not split it and take the crank out and grind it. Still runs great, good oil pressure, although I don't use it much anymore. Its main job throughout the decades was plowing snow, hauling logs, and pulling a trailer for firewood, but I don't do any of that anymore. But I still need it to push the brush back that encroaches on my lawn (I live in the woods) and for a bit of mowing.

I checked the serial number years ago, and as I recall it is a 1951, a year younger than me, lol. We're both getting tired but maybe me more than her.

The oil needs changing so I started that today; I have filters but not that big rubber seal for the cap. I had trouble with that the last time, couldn't get it to seal, so I had to take it apart and put sealer on both sides, which fixed it. I will find out tomorrow if I can get one at the local auto parts. I don't want to send away for one because I'd like to get it back together in the next day or two.

Are there any new tricks to make sure this is sealed?

 

[Tom H.]

Check the parts site here, TO20 oil system parts.

 

[olddavid]

Check the parts site here, TO20 oil system parts.

Yes, I got one here about a year ago. Have you found a filter, yet. Some controversy here. The Baldwin P40 listed here might work but it doesn't cross reference. The Baldwin T44-M is no longer available. I got the P40 last year for my TE20 but after finding that out I went with a Fram C153. At least one of the listed replacements don't have the rubber seals on center pipe top and bottom. I won't use one of those. The P40 looks like it should work but I chickened out on trying it.

 

[Bruce(OR)]

Just pull the plug off on the one side of the cap to drain the oil. Order that seal with a new filter and do it right next time.

 

[Ericp351]

The "tricks" are : Check that all is flat. Do not cut seal on rim lip. Do not over tighten, as the pipe is also rt hand thread. Check that last guy did not leave out the top filter spring. Consider new copper gaskets every other decade- some people don't! Lastly- if you cover has a "Sweat spot" that seals easy- Mark it. A good base O Ring on a true pan and cover can be re-used a bit, and needs little sealer. I use (TO 20) a wix/Nappa filter, #1010 (check-by my memory) . Good luck.

 

[olddavid]

I use (TO 20) a wix/Nappa filter, #1010 (check-by my memory) . Good luck.

NAPA 1010 cross references to a TO-30 but not a TO-20. Not saying it wouldn't work but be sure they have the rubber gaskets at the center holes. Look before you buy one. If they don't the oil will not be forced through the filter material but will leak by the gaps between the filter and the mounting tube.

 

[Jim L WA]

Bruze, welcome back. For one thing the owners manual says you only have to change the filter every other oil change. I doubt very much that a modern auto parts store would have that gasket. I use a Wix 1010 in both my Ford 2N and my TO-20. It does have the rubber gaskets at the center holes.

 

[olddavid]

The TE-20s and TO-20s (TE-20s) have the oil flowing in a different direction from the TO-30s. From inside to outside whereas the TO-30 flows from outside to inside. The manual says not to use the TO-30 filter (Napa 1010 is listed for the TO-30) in the TO-20. Now, that may be that the filters were different then but I tried last year on this forum to get a definite answer and never did. I even called Baldwin to see if the P40 filter sold on this site was listed for the TE-20. It is not and the engineer (I believe) I talked to would not say it was ok to use it on the TE and TO-20s. It is listed for the TO-30. The Fram C153 cross references back to the original Ferguson number for TE and TO-20s. That's why I used it. Again, I am not saying that the P40 and 1010 filters won't work I just haven't found documentation saying they will.

 

[olddavid]

Check this thread: https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/threads/to-20-correct-oil-filter.1632401/#:~:text=TO-20 Correct oil filter

Edit: Also: https://forums.yesterdaystractors.c...0.1659961/#:~:text=What Oil Filter for TO 20?

 

[Bruze]

Does the coil spring go directly above the filter cartridge?

 

[olddavid]

There is a hand drawn picture of how the oil filter assembly goes together on this thread.

Sorry, found it but lost it. Link didn't copy correctly. I'll post it if I find it. The spring goes between the stop on the stand pipe and the oil strainer cover above the oil filter.

 

[Ericp351]

Yes-spring loaded down. As stated, by-pass oil leaves the pipe that the filter -with seals-surrounds. Oil flows out, so clean into sump. Dirt within. Spring forces oil thru filter, not under same. #1010 has served me for decades. I'm old school, and advise you remove and wipe out pan every decade or so. Simple to do in situ- great time to hammer out any dents. Good luck- keep it simple. The system, flawed or not- works. Just relax, and use common sense as I tried to relate above. NOT rocket science! ALTERNATE- spend days on a computer E mailing the Filter-Company-rookie straight out of High School and demand cross references, et cetera. Post script- the Furgeson (long obsolete??) part #'s HAD the same "basic"# , and different only in suffix. The dirt may be too stupid to figure out if a protest is required if trapped IN pleated paper whilst the dirt "friends" in a 30 get trapped otherwise. Rock On.

 

[Bruze]

There is a hand drawn picture of how the oil filter assembly goes together on this thread.

What Oil Filter for TO 20?

A NAPA 1107 came out but I am not sure it's the right one. Thanks for any suggestions

forums.yesterdaystractors.com

I don't see it.

 

[olddavid]

I don't see it.

Found it.

 

[Bruze]

Yes-spring loaded down. As stated, by-pass oil leaves the pipe that the filter -with seals-surrounds. Oil flows out, so clean into sump. Dirt within. Spring forces oil thru filter, not under same. #1010 has served me for decades. I'm old school, and advise you remove and wipe out pan every decade or so. Simple to do in situ- great time to hammer out any dents. Good luck- keep it simple. The system, flawed or not- works. Just relax, and use common sense as I tried to relate above. NOT rocket science! ALTERNATE- spend days on a computer E mailing the Filter-Company-rookie straight out of High School and demand cross references, et cetera. Post script- the Furgeson (long obsolete??) part #'s HAD the same "basic"# , and different only in suffix. The dirt may be too stupid to figure out if a protest is required if trapped IN pleated paper whilst the dirt "friends" in a 30 get trapped otherwise. Rock On.

I"m not a noob -- been doing all my own mechanic work -- including changing oil -- since the mid 1960s on lawnmowers, cars, trucks, motorcycles, this tractor and a boat I had. But since I took it apart the other day, I don't remember where the coil spring went and I couldn't find an exploded diagram online that look correct for my tractor.

The last time I did the tractor oil change, the big seal on the cover leaked pretty bad and I had to drain it and take it apart. I put blue sealer on it and it's been fine since. My only question was are there any new tricks to keep this seal from leaking? I'm going to use the black Permatex on it regardless.

My local family-run independent parts store did not have the big seal so I ordered a couple from here. The local place does carry a lot of common stuff for these old tractors, but not that seal. And I called the nearest MF dealer yesterday, they didn't either.

 

[olddavid]

NOT rocket science! ALTERNATE- spend days on a computer E mailing the Filter-Company-rookie straight out of High School and demand cross references, et cetera. Post script- the Furgeson (long obsolete??) part #'s HAD the same "basic"# , and different only in suffix. The dirt may be too stupid to figure out if a protest is required if trapped IN pleated paper whilst the dirt "friends" in a 30 get trapped otherwise. Rock On.

You are probably right Eric. With a pleated filter element and screening on both sides it is hard to believe there would be a problem but at one time it did make a difference. This is right out of the shop manual for TE-20, TO-20 and TO-30. That became my criterion for choosing a filter. If it was listed for the TO-30 I didn't use it. Now I don't know what the old filters looked like or how they were constructed. Maybe they just had loose material in there and no screen to keep it from migrating the wrong way. If someone out there knows I would sure like to hear about it.

 

[olddavid]

But since I took it apart the other day, I don't remember where the coil spring went and I couldn't find an exploded diagram online that look correct for my tractor.

The last time I did the tractor oil change, the big seal on the cover leaked pretty bad and I had to drain it and take it apart. I put blue sealer on it and it's been fine since. My only question was are there any new tricks to keep this seal from leaking? I'm going to use the black Permatex on it regardless.

Even the shop manual doesn't show a good break down of how it goes together. See my previous post this thread with the hand drawn diagram from another forum member. It's the best I have found. I have to use the big rubber seal and lots of Permatex Red to seal mine. I hit a stump with it and Dad hammered it back into shape but it isn't perfect by any means. The Red has worked twice on mine.

 

[Ericp351]

Did not call you a Noob, or try to offend. Feal free to re read my first post for "tricks" . Last repeat- #1010 works for me. People had decades to mess up spring and dent pan, MY 20 had both...., and care in reassembling goes a long way, especially if reusing a copper gasket et cetera. Lastly- Old Dave: I read that myself in shop book. I thought they MIGHT be warning that if a dealer was ever to swap a used filter 'tween a 20 and 30 that all dirt would go into system. Perhaps we can agree that the wording is a bit awkward. The pleated paper filters are super simple- no case, no drain back vlc., no relief vlv, etc. I simply call that not rocket science.

 

[olddavid]

Lastly- Old Dave: I read that myself in shop book. I thought they MIGHT be warning that if a dealer was ever to swap a used filter 'tween a 20 and 30 that all dirt would go into system. Perhaps we can agree that the wording is a bit awkward. The pleated paper filters are super simple- no case, no drain back vlc., no relief vlv, etc. I simply call that not rocket science.

Ok, I see what you are saying. I hadn't thought of it that way. There are two different part numbers for the two tractors, though. Thanks, and I think the newer filters will probably work interchangeably.

 

[Bruze]

Did not call you a Noob, or try to offend. Feal free to re read my first post for "tricks" . Last repeat- #1010 works for me. People had decades to mess up spring and dent pan, MY 20 had both...., and care in reassembling goes a long way, especially if reusing a copper gasket et cetera. Lastly- Old Dave: I read that myself in shop book. I thought they MIGHT be warning that if a dealer was ever to swap a used filter 'tween a 20 and 30 that all dirt would go into system. Perhaps we can agree that the wording is a bit awkward. The pleated paper filters are super simple- no case, no drain back vlc., no relief vlv, etc. I simply call that not rocket science.

No problem, I just thought your post was written for someone who didn't know the difference between a wrench and a screwdriver.

I got the seals (one spare) yesterday via USPS, so if the grass dries out I'll get it back together today. Not a fan of being old and crawling around on wet grass.