I'm overhauling a 1969 Massey 135 Orchard with an AD3 152 diesel. It has a Davis 101 loader on it. It's leaking pretty much every fluid it has on the forward half of the tractor. The goal is
basically just to get it to stop leaking. Mechanically everything is pretty good, the engine runs great. One of the biggest leaks was from the weep hole behind the clutch and is probably either
the oil pan gasket or rear rope seal. I took the loader off and pressure washed everything but I wish I would have run it for a couple hours to determine where all the leaks are. With the loader
and years of accumulated oil and dirt it was pretty hard to determine what was leaking. The most difficult part of splitting the tractor was removing the fuel lines, the rubber olives were really
stuck in the fittings. I'm going to replace a few of the lines because I bent them out of shape trying to get them apart. I have. little more tear down to do before I start building it back up. I'm
going to take the front axle off to check the front axle pivot bushing. The clutch is getting new clutch plates and new fingers. I'm going to put in a new throwout bearing and spigot bearing. I'm
pretty sure the input shaft seal is good so not going to touch that. I think the front crankshaft seal was weeping so that will be replaced as well. Another thing to figure out is the wiring, it has
been pieced together a bit over the years. This site has been a huge help over the years, I've been a longtime lurker but this is my first time posting. Another big help was videos from Bundy
Bears Shed on YouTube where he rebuilds a 135.
There aren't many threads that I've been able to find on old loader removals. It was pretty easy with a gantry. Unbolt the pump and slide it off the front, then it was held on to the belly with 3
bolts (there was supposed to be 4, one was missing). Slide out pins holding the arms to the rear axle supports, raise them up and back the tractor up. Go forward and jump off because you
forgot a hose goes across the middle of the tractor to the far loader arm. Then jump back on and finish backing up. It would be easy with any kind of overhead lifting support, it would be a
challenge to try and do it with jacks lifting from the ground. One thing I'm happy about is a local hydraulic shop said they could reseal the control spool. The general consensus from forums
was that people usually put a new one on. Also having the pump pressure tested. New the loader was rated for 3000 pounds, now it can only lift about 800 pounds. The previous owner had
the cylinders rehoned so I don't think that's the problem.
I wedged the front axle and chose to you an engine hoist vs a floor jack. The tractor came apart really easily but probably won't go back together as easily.
basically just to get it to stop leaking. Mechanically everything is pretty good, the engine runs great. One of the biggest leaks was from the weep hole behind the clutch and is probably either
the oil pan gasket or rear rope seal. I took the loader off and pressure washed everything but I wish I would have run it for a couple hours to determine where all the leaks are. With the loader
and years of accumulated oil and dirt it was pretty hard to determine what was leaking. The most difficult part of splitting the tractor was removing the fuel lines, the rubber olives were really
stuck in the fittings. I'm going to replace a few of the lines because I bent them out of shape trying to get them apart. I have. little more tear down to do before I start building it back up. I'm
going to take the front axle off to check the front axle pivot bushing. The clutch is getting new clutch plates and new fingers. I'm going to put in a new throwout bearing and spigot bearing. I'm
pretty sure the input shaft seal is good so not going to touch that. I think the front crankshaft seal was weeping so that will be replaced as well. Another thing to figure out is the wiring, it has
been pieced together a bit over the years. This site has been a huge help over the years, I've been a longtime lurker but this is my first time posting. Another big help was videos from Bundy
Bears Shed on YouTube where he rebuilds a 135.
There aren't many threads that I've been able to find on old loader removals. It was pretty easy with a gantry. Unbolt the pump and slide it off the front, then it was held on to the belly with 3
bolts (there was supposed to be 4, one was missing). Slide out pins holding the arms to the rear axle supports, raise them up and back the tractor up. Go forward and jump off because you
forgot a hose goes across the middle of the tractor to the far loader arm. Then jump back on and finish backing up. It would be easy with any kind of overhead lifting support, it would be a
challenge to try and do it with jacks lifting from the ground. One thing I'm happy about is a local hydraulic shop said they could reseal the control spool. The general consensus from forums
was that people usually put a new one on. Also having the pump pressure tested. New the loader was rated for 3000 pounds, now it can only lift about 800 pounds. The previous owner had
the cylinders rehoned so I don't think that's the problem.
I wedged the front axle and chose to you an engine hoist vs a floor jack. The tractor came apart really easily but probably won't go back together as easily.