Mudrig's new Ford 3000

No real progress, but decided to set the cab on the tractor to see how it fits, and it fits pretty well. Sitting crooked here, the back is higher than it would otherwise be, but the front is about right.

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Clutch came today. I'll see if I can get it in tomorrow and also see if I can get the rest of the machine together. Pulling the pressure plate apart scares me a little bit.
 
Went to start the 3000 today and wouldn't start, which initially was a bit concerning, but luckily I have enough knowledge of diesels to be able to figure out that the fuel filters and injection pump got full of water, which I drained out. Got it bled and it started straight up.
Radiator cap is bad, confirmed by stealing the cap off my bullnose, which is causing it to continuously leak coolant out of the overflow. Luckily it's not building enough pressure to pop the 7 lb cap; the problem with the old cap is that the rubber doesn't even contact the radiator neck.
Plow is now fully off and WOW, it was HEAVY. 5100 was really feeling the weight carrying it, and the lifting chains were tight as guitar strings. Definitely way too heavy for this little machine to be dragging around full time so I'm happy it's off.
Also, turns out this machine is serial number 102550, so number 2550 off the assembly line.
Just need to clean the fuel system, reseal the one steering cylinder, get a new rad cap, and get the PTO cable freed up and then it'll be a nice little bush hog machine.
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Looks like my '65 based on the grill. I think I see a power steering cylinder......you'll like that. Mine didn't so I added an aftermarket.....works ok but not like OEM I have on other Fords. The piping under the thing is owner added....can't make out what its for.
 
Looks like my '65 based on the grill. I think I see a power steering cylinder......you'll like that. Mine didn't so I added an aftermarket.....works ok but not like OEM I have on other Fords. The piping under the thing is owner added....can't make out what its for.
The thing underneath is the mount for a snow plow that was originally off a workmaster tractor and modified to fit. I ended up removing the plow since the moldboard had been replaced with a hacked up 3 point plow that weighed something like 1500 pounds and was stressing the tractor out really badly.
 
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I'm trying to figure out why the tank on the left won't fit. I already know that, like the drawbar, the battery tray from the 4000 parts tractor is different, but the tank SHOULD be the same and the different battery tray shouldn't matter. Tank is from the same parts 4000 as the battery tray and drawbar but all the measurements are the same as my later tank from the 8 speed tractor. Not sure what the reason is, but it hits both the mounting brackets in the front and rear of it.
Part numbers are the same between the 4000 tank and the 3000 tank, so it should fit in theory, but it just doesn't. Only real difference between the new and old tank is that the new tank is taller in the top half but the bottom half should be the same.
Is this an issue of incompatible parts, something wrong with the tank, or is this just another wierd year difference thing?
 
Sorry for my poor memory, but wasn't one tractor a gasser and the other a diesel? I just looked at my parts PDF and it says that the 4000 used a different part number than a 3000 for both the gas and diesel engines if that helps any.
 
Sorry for my poor memory, but wasn't one tractor a gasser and the other a diesel? I just looked at my parts PDF and it says that the 4000 used a different part number than a 3000 for both the gas and diesel engines if that helps any.
Yeah, the SOS engine donor was diesel and the 8 speed transmission donor was gas.
 
The part numbers for the diesel and gas fuel tanks had to be different since the diesel tanks had the fitting for the return line in the filler neck and the gassers didn't.
 
3000 tank is 13 gallons
4000AP tank is 15 gallons
They are not the same tank
4000SU and 4110 LCG use a 3000 fuel tank because they have the same front axle and low profile sheet metal as a 3000
 
Oh, yeah, that makes sense.
My parts book doesn't show the sheet metal for the AP, it only shows the SU sheet metal. Guess I have to find some way to make the gasser tank work on this tractor.
 
Drill a hole in the gas tanks fill neck like on the 4000 tank, solder in a short piece of steel tubing to connect the return hose to
This is what I did to my 4000 when I converted it to diesel back in the 90’s
Do not use open flame torch in solder the connection unless you’ve aired out the tank to remove gas vapors
 
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All back together, for the most part. Went through all the trouble to swap the bracket that connects the dash to the battery tray, and then promptly found out that it was a waste of time. Turns out early 3000s have taller sheet metal than later ones, or more accurately, the GRILLE is taller, and the rest of the sheet metal is higher up to line up. Ended up having to swap the bracket from the 4000 battery tray back onto it because it actually lines up.
Went to start it, and of course it decided it doesn't want to start, as usual. Absolutely 0 fuel to the injectors but I'm getting it to the pump so the top of the pump will probably have to come off AGAIN to free up the shutoff mechanism inside the pump.
 
Okay, rack was stuck, pulled top off pump, freed rack up, and cleaned all the gunk out. Tractor started and then stalled, now it only runs for a second and then dies. Apparently there's a bleed off valve somewhere in the return lines that is probably clogged, but where is it?
 
Got it running again. Missed the shutoff rack with the peg on the shutoff cam and wedged it halfway into the kill position, starving the engine of fuel. Also found that the microscopic hole in the top cover bleed line was clogged and it wasn't allowing excess pressure to bleed out of the injection pump.
Of course, I need to tear it apart AGAIN because the top cover on the pump keeps building enough pressure to blow the gasket apart, so it'll need a third gasket made.
At least I was able to test the clutch and confirm it works.
 
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Tore top off pump, put it back together with a new gasket, tractor went straight to starting and then immediately stalling. Thought that it was wierd that it JUST RAN but suddenly didn't, with the only difference being that the pump wasn't leaking now... so I did a little test: I loosened one of the top cover volts on the injection pump, and it started straight up. Tightened the bolt, and it died immediately. I then took the banjo bolt out of the bleed off line fitting and stuck it back in the hole, and what do you know, it started and then died immediately. Turns out, it's overpressurizing the inside of the pump because the hole in the banjo bolt is too small, so I drilled it out and it's working great!
I guess we'll find out the ramifications of drilling it out later...
 

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I've enjoyed following your updates and progress. Glad she's running for you now. I'm tucking away all your troubleshooting steps and such for if/when I get a diesel. Appreciate all the details, keep it coming!
 
Well, sheet metal is mostly on, but after a half hour of running, it has now gone through its third top cover gasket on the injection pump. For now, I think I'm just gonna hang a bucket off the pump to catch the diesel that's pouring out because clearly it's not going to stop blowing that gasket out.
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