New Ford 2N Owner with some questions

travistodd1

New User
Hello, I recently purchased a pretty clean little Ford 2n to use on my property to help with the chores. I am not overly familiar with these tractor however am mechanically inclined. I was hoping someone could point me in the direction of a few things to look at as I need to fix a couple things...

The brakes are terrible, pretty much non-existent. I can put all my weight on either side with little results. Is there something I should look at first?

I noticed when I backed off the trailer and a couple times after, if I coast, I get a ratchet noise from the transmission. This happen regardless of in gear of clutch pressed. I will go away if I move the shifter to one side or the other. Normal or not?

I believe I need to drop the hydraulic pump and service it. The lift arms are jerky when lifting. Other than a good cleaning and service, is there something I should be looking for?

Thanks
Travis
 
Travistodd1 , The brakes are bad because the axle seals are bad and leaking oil onto the brake shoes.
The clacking noise is from worn shifter parts shift linkages and lever,rubbing on gears.9N and 2N are quite a chore to get the shift cover off to repair it.
Hydraulic jumping is from pump pistons and valves , one is not working causing the jumping motion. You might try draining old dirty fluid # drains ,flushing several times and new fluid installed. Or remove pump,top cover to clean/repair pump ,lift piston oring seals ,check/replace cam fouler pin and replace fluid.
 
Thank you. I will address the brakes first and foremost, they are a safety concern. Then flush out the hydrauluc system. The transmission isn't as huge of a concern but will probably get to it at some point, I don't see myself coasting around very often.





(quoted from post at 20:12:19 07/10/22) Travistodd1 , The brakes are bad because the axle seals are bad and leaking oil onto the brake shoes.
The clacking noise is from worn shifter parts shift linkages and lever,rubbing on gears.9N and 2N are quite a chore to get the shift cover off to repair it.
Hydraulic jumping is from pump pistons and valves , one is not working causing the jumping motion. You might try draining old dirty fluid # drains ,flushing several times and new fluid installed. Or remove pump,top cover to clean/repair pump ,lift piston oring seals ,check/replace cam fouler pin and replace fluid.
 
Bruce VA has a link of 75 tips for N owners. Look at any of his posts to get a copy. I find them very useful to the point they are part of my Ford manual.
 
Welcome aboard. The first thing on your list of TO-DO should be to invest in the ESSENTIAL MANUALS for your 'new' machine. Read religiously. There is much to learn.
Barkes on these old N's are notoriously not the best. Most all systems are of basic design and repairing can be done by yourself. Some jobs are more time consuming
than others but know what you are getting into first. Don't start buying new parts and replacing anything until you investigate the root cause of any problem. Getting
copies of the 9N/2N Service manual, a copy of the I&T FO-4 Manual, and a copy of your model year MPC or a newer 39-53 MPC are required reading to start with. Pretty
much every topic has been covered and talk can be found in the archive pages here. Bear in mind you will get several replies and not all information given is correct;
some is based on opinions, not facts.

FORD 9N/2N WIRING 6V & 12V:
<ing src=https://i.imgur.com/Swubdfmh.jpg>​


FORD 9N/2N ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:
i2gbSeoh.jpg

Tim Daley(MI)
 
You have received good advice so far. Brakes first then replacing hydraulic fluid. My gear shifter did the same as yours for 30 years without issue and eventually I did fix do to a shifting issue so you should put on the list. Cheap to fix but just time consuming. Here is a link for brakes. There could be better ones not sure. You will get good advice on this board.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_15D-WNUlIo
 

Brakes will be your biggest challenge its a hard/heavy nasty job : ( If you pay a shop to do it correctly it will run about the value of the tractor.

As hard as it is to believe when the brakes are repaired right they will lock the rear tires up. I had a customer flip his 2N over this week end while mowing in a tight place while backing up he thought he hit the clutch. He hit the brake it spun around hit a light pole and flipped the tractor over. He was lucky it just rolled on its side.
 
Hi Travis, welcome aboard. When you get to the point of removing the old bearings to get to the seals, don't., Just pack the bearings and install Sure Seals. I did that on my 2N and they work really well.
 
When and if you drop the Hydraulic Oil Pump and remove the top cover....
AFTER you obtain a SERVICE MANUL....
Pics of my 2-N......Had to remove top cover.. Drop HYd Pump, etc, etc, etc,
I had to replace parts in the Differential so the rear left axel hosing had to be removed
Bob.. Owner Ford 2-N
cvphoto130188.jpg



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cvphoto130197.jpg


cvphoto130199.jpg


cvphoto130201.jpg


cvphoto130202.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 22:01:15 07/11/22) Hi Travis, welcome aboard. When you get to the point of removing the old bearings to get to the seals, don't., Just pack the bearings and install Sure Seals. I did that on my 2N and they work really well.

Its still a hack job it only takes one drop of oil to screw up the brakes why take that chance fix it right and be done with it.

Go get that leaking outer seal life will be good.
 
And remember:
When you have done the work of putting in
new seals and brake shoes, the brakes will
be adequate. But just...
None of the Fords with dry drum brakes were
known for having 'good' brakes.
 
(quoted from post at 19:25:28 07/10/22)

The brakes are terrible, pretty much non-existent. I can put all my weight on either side with little results. Is there something I should look at first?

Thanks
Travis

Before you tear the brakes down inspect the hubs for signs of leaking fluid. If no signs of leaks adjust the brakes.

You might get lucky and not need seals/brake job right away. And never overfill the tranny/rear fluid.


That was the case with my 9N. After adjustment I could spin the N around pretty quick just hitting one brake.

But ~40 years later, now I do need seals/brake job.
 
(quoted from post at 04:43:18 07/11/22)
Brakes will be your biggest challenge its a hard/heavy nasty job : ( If you pay a shop to do it correctly it will run about the value of the tractor.

As hard as it is to believe when the brakes are repaired right they will lock the rear tires up. I had a customer flip his 2N over this week end while mowing in a tight place while backing up he thought he hit the clutch. He hit the brake it spun around hit a light pole and flipped the tractor over. He was lucky it just rolled on its side.

As a new 2N owner, I think you should know that Ford, in their infinite wisdom mislabeled the reverse position on the transmission.

It says "R" for reverse. It should say "W" for Warp speed.

We have a 2N, and we love it. But... their reverse speed is crazy fast... ours has the Sherman step up transmission... the stepped up reverse speed? Even faster than warp speed.

Take precautions. Heck... when you put it in reverse, you can even say "ENGAGE!" like Capt Picard from Star Trek... just to remind yourself that you will be going fast.

Also, if you want to run anything off of the PTO, get yourself a good overrunning clutch. They cost about 70 bucks, and will keep a coasting bush hog or other implement from driving the rear wheels by rotating the PTO shaft... since it's all connected in these tractors.

The first time you're running a bush hog and come up to an obstacle... you press the clutch and realize that the tractor is still moving? You'll realize that the coasting bush hog is driving the back tires... not the engine. A good overrunning clutch will prevent that... possibly save your life... certainly save a pair of underwear.

When you DO get the overrunning clutch, be aware of the PTO shaft diameter of the Ford 2N. The actual PTO shaft is smaller than modern PTO shafts. If yours is the same as a modern PTO shaft? It's because someone put an adapter on it.

Tractor supply sells a good overrunning clutch that fits the 2N's original PTO... and adapts to the modern PTO size.


BUT... once you account for these quirks, and if you keep your head screwed on straight, and operate with a little bit of common sense... you can get a lot of stuff done with the old buggers. Ours is a 1943. It's 79 years old. I'm 52. I rebuilt its engine 6 years ago... 4 years before I got a new hip... and I'm hoping that I will be farming long enough to see the old 2N hit 100.
 
Thank you everyone for the replies. I have been at my regular job and not had the time to tear into it quite yet. They joys of graveyards and it being 110 during the day...

I do have the service manuals for it and will be utilizing them. I pulled the fill cap off by the shifter and things were surprisingly clean in there but the fluid seemed very thin. I hope tonget some things accomplished this weekend if time allows. I attached a couple photos, hopefully they will show up.


quote="lastcowboy32"](quoted from post at 13:05:10 07/12/22)
(quoted from post at 04:43:18 07/11/22)
Brakes will be your biggest challenge its a hard/heavy nasty job : ( If you pay a shop to do it correctly it will run about the value of the tractor.

As hard as it is to believe when the brakes are repaired right they will lock the rear tires up. I had a customer flip his 2N over this week end while mowing in a tight place while backing up he thought he hit the clutch. He hit the brake it spun around hit a light pole and flipped the tractor over. He was lucky it just rolled on its side.

As a new 2N owner, I think you should know that Ford, in their infinite wisdom mislabeled the reverse position on the transmission.

It says "R" for reverse. It should say "W" for Warp speed.

We have a 2N, and we love it. But... their reverse speed is crazy fast... ours has the Sherman step up transmission... the stepped up reverse speed? Even faster than warp speed.

Take precautions. Heck... when you put it in reverse, you can even say "ENGAGE!" like Capt Picard from Star Trek... just to remind yourself that you will be going fast.

Also, if you want to run anything off of the PTO, get yourself a good overrunning clutch. They cost about 70 bucks, and will keep a coasting bush hog or other implement from driving the rear wheels by rotating the PTO shaft... since it's all connected in these tractors.

The first time you're running a bush hog and come up to an obstacle... you press the clutch and realize that the tractor is still moving? You'll realize that the coasting bush hog is driving the back tires... not the engine. A good overrunning clutch will prevent that... possibly save your life... certainly save a pair of underwear.

When you DO get the overrunning clutch, be aware of the PTO shaft diameter of the Ford 2N. The actual PTO shaft is smaller than modern PTO shafts. If yours is the same as a modern PTO shaft? It's because someone put an adapter on it.

Tractor supply sells a good overrunning clutch that fits the 2N's original PTO... and adapts to the modern PTO size.


BUT... once you account for these quirks, and if you keep your head screwed on straight, and operate with a little bit of common sense... you can get a lot of stuff done with the old buggers. Ours is a 1943. It's 79 years old. I'm 52. I rebuilt its engine 6 years ago... 4 years before I got a new hip... and I'm hoping that I will be farming long enough to see the old 2N hit 100.[/quote]ttps://forumphotos.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto94388.jpg[/img]

mvphoto94389.jpg


mvphoto94390.jpg
 
Also... I mentioned bush hog... but remember that a 2N is about 20 horsepower. They look big, compared to modern compact tractors... but most modern compact tractors of the same size are 28 to 35 horsepower.

Many people get a 2N as landowners, with ideas that they are going to go out and "bush hog" with them. And... you can...but here is the deal. We use our 2N to do things on the farm... rake hay, run a small hay tedder (we have a 7 footer and a 10 footer)... pull hay wagons around... none of those things tax the PTO that much.

As far as mowing, we have a five foot finish mower... the 2N runs that like a champ, but if the grass gets about a foot tall, it starts to strain a lot.

If you're going to bush hog foot tall grass with a few scrubby multiflora rose bushes in it... you'll be fine with a four or five foot bush hog.

If you have some old hayfield that you let grow up with thick grass as tall as your shoulders... and you take your 2N out there to run a five foot bush hog... it will try, and it might do it for a while... but it does have limits, and you'll find them.

It's an awful way to abuse a machine that has lasted nearly 80 years already.
 
I'm in high desert here and. We really don't get much thick grass. It will mostly be used for blade work and moving things. No hard labor for the old girl. It will be mostly used to maintain a small horse pasture.


(quoted from post at 14:33:11 07/12/22) Also... I mentioned bush hog... but remember that a 2N is about 20 horsepower. They look big, compared to modern compact tractors... but most modern compact tractors of the same size are 28 to 35 horsepower.

Many people get a 2N as landowners, with ideas that they are going to go out and "bush hog" with them. And... you can...but here is the deal. We use our 2N to do things on the farm... rake hay, run a small hay tedder (we have a 7 footer and a 10 footer)... pull hay wagons around... none of those things tax the PTO that much.

As far as mowing, we have a five foot finish mower... the 2N runs that like a champ, but if the grass gets about a foot tall, it starts to strain a lot.

If you're going to bush hog foot tall grass with a few scrubby multiflora rose bushes in it... you'll be fine with a four or five foot bush hog.

If you have some old hayfield that you let grow up with thick grass as tall as your shoulders... and you take your 2N out there to run a five foot bush hog... it will try, and it might do it for a while... but it does have limits, and you'll find them.

It's an awful way to abuse a machine that has lasted nearly 80 years already.
 
(quoted from post at 17:05:10 07/12/22)

As a new 2N owner, I think you should know that Ford, in their infinite wisdom mislabeled the reverse position on the transmission.

It says "R" for reverse. It should say "W" for Warp speed.

We have a 2N, and we love it. But... their reverse speed is crazy fast... ours has the Sherman step up transmission... the stepped up reverse speed? Even faster than warp speed.

Take precautions. Heck... when you put it in reverse, you can even say "ENGAGE!" like Capt Picard from Star Trek... just to remind yourself that you will be going fast.

there's a definite yeehaa factor with the 2N's reverse. but if that's warp speed, what's the name for what the 8N does? :shock:
 
(quoted from post at 17:43:10 07/12/22)
(quoted from post at 17:05:10 07/12/22)

As a new 2N owner, I think you should know that Ford, in their infinite wisdom mislabeled the reverse position on the transmission.

It says "R" for reverse. It should say "W" for Warp speed.

We have a 2N, and we love it. But... their reverse speed is crazy fast... ours has the Sherman step up transmission... the stepped up reverse speed? Even faster than warp speed.

Take precautions. Heck... when you put it in reverse, you can even say "ENGAGE!" like Capt Picard from Star Trek... just to remind yourself that you will be going fast.

there's a definite yeehaa factor with the 2N's reverse. but if that's warp speed, what's the name for what the 8N does? :shock:

Never drove an 8N...but we did have a Ford 3000, it had a high/low transmission with four gears and reverse in both high and low. The 3000 also had crazy fast reverse. High range reverse was way too fast.

So it wouldn't surprise me that the Ford 8N also has that characteristic.

Old Ford tractors...when you need road gear...in reverse
 
Some thoughts about reverse speeds.
I didn't find a listing for a 2 N but the
numbers I found for reverse speed on a :
9N is 2.69 mph @ 1400 rpm.
8N is 4.9 mph @ 1500 rpm.
3000 (lo reverse) is 1.8 mph @ 1500 rpm.
3000 (hi reverse) is 6.3 mph @ 1500 rpm.
My first tractor was a 2N that I got when
my father passed. I ran it for a couple of
years and thought the gearing on it was
just fine.
But I wanted the brake pedals, drawbar and
position control of an 8N.
Had never driven an 8N before.
I found an 8N with a smokey engine and
swapped my good running 2N engine into it.
I was so disgusted with the reverse on it
that I sold both tractors and bought a
2000. To this day I can not understand why
Ford would have made the 8N reverse so
fast.
 

Love the fact that someone found numbers.

My 2N impression is definitely shaded by the Sherman step-up that it has. My guess is that reverse with the step-up engaged is in the realm of where the 8N reverse speed is.

And...yeah... that 6.3mph on the 3000 in high range reverse... it scares the crap out of people that are trying to help hook you up to a wagon... What I WILL say though, is... that hyper fast reverse does help you rock your way out of a mud hole if you're stuck. I had the 3000 stuck a time or two. If you put it in high range and rock back and forth between 2 and Reverse, you have a good chance of slinging some mud and getting back to dry ground.
 
Welcome Travis. Nice looking tractor. I get picky about my repairs. I would replace shoes, springs and seals. I also replaced the axle
bearings on my 8N when I tore mine down, but only because they were pitted. I wasn't thrilled about going back in. You might want to have
your parts on hand in case you get to work on it when it's sunny and 70 degrees. Hope this helps.
 

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