New to tractors

Hey there everyone , looking for some quick down and dirty advice on these Ferguson Tractors . I have a beat up 52 8n that was given to me last spring . Just started setting up to get it going and I realized I ll have way more than I d like in it ( and that s just getting it running ) COMPARED to junking or parting it out and buying a tractor already ready to work . So I have 1200 right now and was gonna get tires and rims for 8n and saw plenty of workable tractors from 1000-1500. Brings me to the T20 I ve seen now 3 of em from 2000-1400. Nice looking and ready to go . I personally will only pull a trailer of wood from woods OR drag reasonable sized logs with it or maybe push snow . That s it - and ... I ve always wanted a tractor My current research shows ford N tractors are right for me , but I haven t read or heard much about Ferguson s .. other than the lawsuit and doing his own thing. Got my eye on a 41 T20 . Good tractor for my needs ? Like any advice for noob soon to be tractor guy . Thanks in advance
 
"I realized I ll have way more than I d like in it. . ."

"...Workable tractors."

Reminds me of my recent search for a dozer. I went and looked at $5K machines. Then $10K. I finally wound up at $13K and it needs work.

Your looking for something for nothing. Do yourself a favor and get a new machine. It will save you having to work on it in the future.
Monthly payments are cheap enough and all you have to concern yourself about is maintenance.
Your looking at 50 year old machines and they will all need work. Modern machines have the features that you will desire.
I once used a riding mower with chained rear tires up to haul a 30 X 60 inch trailer around stacked up about 4 or 5 feet tall of wood.
I learned how to shift my weight over the slipping wheel when it happened.
That is cheap and can work.
 
I have a TO30, very similar to the TO20s. I've used a 9N owned by a relative. No experience on an 8N.

If all you are doing is pulling things--trailer, logs--they will all likely be similar. Some difference in power, etc, but fairly minor differences. Here I must also add the standard disclaimer that all of these tractors can be flipped easily if you pull something and hook too high. But if you pull only from a swinging drawbar they are fine when used prudently. I often pull a trailer, a "sled" for heavy objects I can just tip onto it, the occasional log, etc.

The snow pushing will also likely be similar between models. Not sure what kind of snow you have where you live. For all of them (I think this is true) the main issue will be that they don't weigh enough to get the power to the ground effectively if the ground is slippery and the snow is deep and wet. Chains and loaded tires make a huge improvement.

I move snow with mine, but we mostly get pretty minor snows here. The few times we get 10+" of heavy wet snow it's quite a job (but a job I enjoy). I don't have chains or loaded tires as these snows happen only once every couple years for us. I'm sure that would help immensely.

They are all old machines. And old means they will cost time and/or money to maintain. But then again, if you like that kind of work it's not "work" but play.

I really like my TO30. It serves me well. These are my 2cents, and probably worth less than that.
 
Thanks for your financial advice. I may have got on wrong forum, because I thought this was TO 20 thread. I was merely looking for any kind of useful info on this paticular tractor or Fergusons in general . I ve never known anyone to have one or speak of one. I buy everything used . I ve rebuilt small blocks , 2stoke dirt bikes and continue to keep kids 4wheelers and machines in good working order. I m fine w working on things , but I don t wanna rebuild a tractor this winter . Buying a brand new tractor to pull 2- 3 logs from the woods a yr seems a bit much also. Sorry I didn t write a thorough enough life report to inform everyone better on how to properly answer my question regarding Ferguson tractors. My point - 8n needs tires and rims all around , new fuel tank, and other parts just to get running . On top of all that it s a rusted out pos that would require equal or more money and time in getting it to look nice. So to skip all that mess I m looking for a tractor under $2000 to lightly use and tinker with . So anything to look out for in certain models ? Or a common problem to be aware of ? Thanks
 
Awesome thanks Jeremy! I live right near Chardon, we ve been lucky past few yrs but usually get dumped on pretty good . Thanks for advice w tipping too, Never ran one before. Looking at a 50 TO20 Sunday ( it was listed as a 41 and he just informed me he thinks it s a 50)
 
Welcome Joe!

The TO20 was produced from 48-51. It was the first in the TO series.

It is a close cousin to the N series Fords.

They were good tractors in their day.

Some problems were the crank shaft thrust bearings fail, the oil filter cover was on the bottom of the oil pan, subject to damage and leaking, no high-low gear range, no live PTO, no power steering offered.

Just the age will be a source of trouble. Unless you can find one that was previously restored and cared for, expect to have the same problems as the 8N, 70 years of aging.

If you are interested in the Ferguson line, keep a look out for a TO35. They were the last in the TO series, made from 54-60. Though not a big age difference, a lot of improvements were made, especially in the Deluxe model.

Still at that age, expect to find a lot of problems. Very likely it will need a radiator, gas tank, new wiring, wheels and tires...

Parts are readily available, most at reasonable cost, but all will be aftermarket (questionable fit and quality) or used.

I would shop carefully and patiently. Look at several before buying. Don't buy not running unless it's at scrap value. Look for "deal killers" like broken bosses on the front of the block, welded block or cases, missing parts, and the age old "running when parked" promise. Though it may be true, years of rain water in the engine will take it's toll!
 
Any of the tractors you are thinking about will do the work you have in mind. I have a Ford 2N, a Ford NAA and a TO-20 with a F.E.L. They all work reasonably well. The NAA is my favorite though.
 

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Will need tires soon but they all hold air and 1st thing I?d like to do is
convert to 12v system, but overall I?m happy w it
 
FEL on the Fergy TO-20 can be fun. If you desire to run the pump off the crank you will need a front pulley that you might find on Ebay for
the TO-20. Currently that pulley is made from an alloy of Obsoleteum and Unobtanium. The TO-30 front pulley will not fit.
Beyond that I once purchased a 9N that had an FEL on it, and the front axle was fractured and broke upon off loading the tractor once I got
it home. I found the Ford and Fergys pretty much shared the same front axle pieces. I got a 9N center axle section and had it reinforced
with diamond plate to prevent it from breaking again. Dropped it into he Fergy and no more problems with that.
Beyond that comes the problem of turning with no power steering.
Take off the 16 inch 3 rib tires and find a set of 225/75R16 truck tires. They will clear the steering spindles with about 1-1/2 inches to
spare. Flat tires turn easier for an FEL but are a pain when plowing.
Then if you desire to reduce steering strain yo can add a few inches to the steering links above the spindles. That will make it easier to
turn but will increase the turning radius accordingly. But then if you desire to turn you just use the steering bakes, right?
Oh yeah, brakes don't work so to fix those you need "Sure Seals" with the chamfered edge and short fiber wheel bearing grease for the wheel
bearings before you install those seals. You can also use a 3 foot section of ABS pipe over the axle to help install the seals.
That's enough to get you swinging in the right direction, if you desire to not use the front pulley for the FEL, look up live hydraulics
and Windy Ridge Farms. That might be another option.
 
Thanks . Greatly appreciated. Much to learn about these old workhorses. I m going to check out some threads on pulling logs or mounting winches. Any way to safely remove as much timber from woods best means possible
 

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