Does anyone heat with a Clayton 1800 Warm Air Furnace which is made by US Stove?
I have one in the basement that is connected to our air handler in the attic via a 12 inch insulated duct. The stove connects to 4 ft of 6 inch stove pipe, then to 24ft of 6 inch double wall insulated stainless steel flue with 5 feet sticking out the roof. I normally heat 3850sq/ft (4700sq/ft if I open the basement doors to the garage) to 73-75F most of the winter, and burn all the wood you can get on a large wheelbarrow every 24 hours. The house is insulated well (R21 in the basement walls, R13 in basement ceiling , R15 upstairs walls and R50 in upstairs ceiling).
QUESTION 1: Does this sound like an excessive amount of wood to burn per day?
The stove drafts more than fine but creosote build up is sometimes a problem when trying to choke it down early or late in the heating season. I have installed a fresh air vent which is located above the stove. I do not use the forced air draft and only let if draft naturally by opening the two dampers that are located on the ash door and below the fuel door.
QUESTION 2: Which is best for combustion (A) air entering below the fire through the ash pan and up through the grates or (B) air entering at the height of the fuel?
The stove has a selectable secondary heat exchanger which brings the exhaust to the front of the stove then up through a tunnel to the back of the stove then out the flue. I can not tell much difference in the heating capabilities with the secondary heat exchanger selected, but it does tend to creosote more.
QUESTION 3: Do I just need to burn the stove hotter to eliminate the creosote while using the secondary heat exchanger?
The blower on the stove is automatic and has an output switch to select the speed of 1100, 1250, or 1400 CFM.
QUESTION 4: Which speed would be best to move the heat around (does a faster air speed cool the air)?
I have one in the basement that is connected to our air handler in the attic via a 12 inch insulated duct. The stove connects to 4 ft of 6 inch stove pipe, then to 24ft of 6 inch double wall insulated stainless steel flue with 5 feet sticking out the roof. I normally heat 3850sq/ft (4700sq/ft if I open the basement doors to the garage) to 73-75F most of the winter, and burn all the wood you can get on a large wheelbarrow every 24 hours. The house is insulated well (R21 in the basement walls, R13 in basement ceiling , R15 upstairs walls and R50 in upstairs ceiling).
QUESTION 1: Does this sound like an excessive amount of wood to burn per day?
The stove drafts more than fine but creosote build up is sometimes a problem when trying to choke it down early or late in the heating season. I have installed a fresh air vent which is located above the stove. I do not use the forced air draft and only let if draft naturally by opening the two dampers that are located on the ash door and below the fuel door.
QUESTION 2: Which is best for combustion (A) air entering below the fire through the ash pan and up through the grates or (B) air entering at the height of the fuel?
The stove has a selectable secondary heat exchanger which brings the exhaust to the front of the stove then up through a tunnel to the back of the stove then out the flue. I can not tell much difference in the heating capabilities with the secondary heat exchanger selected, but it does tend to creosote more.
QUESTION 3: Do I just need to burn the stove hotter to eliminate the creosote while using the secondary heat exchanger?
The blower on the stove is automatic and has an output switch to select the speed of 1100, 1250, or 1400 CFM.
QUESTION 4: Which speed would be best to move the heat around (does a faster air speed cool the air)?
