Oliver OC 46

Sharing an update. Worked on ampmeter. Got everything wired, and new wire from alternator to ampmeter to switch.

Now for the bad. Bracket for old ampmeter did not fit, and had to fabricate one for it from my extras junk bin. Second bad, I wired it up and is reading negative instead of positive. I could let it alone, but it will get the better of me and I will redo the wiring. The good is, it is showing the charge when I first fire it, and then it drops down. It is also showing charge when a little above idle which Im happy about.
Second bad, I have a fuel leak, and wanted to narrow it down. It's the pump. Hardly any room to get in there and tear it out. Most likely it needs a new gasket or seal or something with the way its dripping pretty heavily.
Enjoy these pictures.
 

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New ammeter didn't come with a bracket? The ones I get do; I don't trust gauges to physically be the same, seen too many variations. Needle going the wrong way is an easy fix, the wires just need to swap the posts they are on.
 
New ammeter didn't come with a bracket? The ones I get do; I don't trust gauges to physically be the same, seen too many variations. Needle going the wrong way is an easy fix, the wires just need to swap the posts they are on.
It wasn't new, it was an ebay new old stock. Seller even verified it worked with picture before I purchased.
 
I got my seals yesterday, and had some time to get it all back together. Remember when taking front idler apart for Oliver OC 46 to remove nuts 3, then 2 from previous post.
 
Your original post said, I'm no mechanic!! You were not before, you are now. I believe I first started following threads and looking for knowledge on this web site 20 years or so ago. I was'nt a mechanic either, but with good people sharing information from this site, I have painted and tore down and repaired tractor engines transmissions and hydraulic systems carburators etc. Ofcourse many of the ones who shared their knowledge have passed on so it falls to those here today to share our knowledge and expertise at repairing and fixing. Congratulations on your project progress. I enjoyed the ride along....gobble
 
Your original post said, I'm no mechanic!! You were not before, you are now. I believe I first started following threads and looking for knowledge on this web site 20 years or so ago. I was'nt a mechanic either, but with good people sharing information from this site, I have painted and tore down and repaired tractor engines transmissions and hydraulic systems carburators etc. Ofcourse many of the ones who shared their knowledge have passed on so it falls to those here today to share our knowledge and expertise at repairing and fixing. Congratulations on your project progress. I enjoyed the ride along....gobble
I agree, Ive used this site with past posts. Some of them even posted 20 years ago or more. I figured if I can contribute a sliver of photos, or methods, it will help the next person. Knowledge is built with time. Im happy this little crawler is a project to an extent, because it builds a foundation of me understanding what I have, and how it operates. With this time of year, Im really wishing I had a garage though 🙂.
 
Suggest a portable garage to keep the wind and rain ,snow off you and the work.
Ith I saw one on sale at Menards,tractor supply recently .
Share this
The drop axle bearing failed on the hg -42 in the middle of the road plowing snow . That was a very intense effort to get it the barn to fix.
A roller bearing was wedged into the large drop reduction gear tooth. Every the track sprocket came around it would bind and shift the track outwards.That gear did not break , which was a relief cause this happen was way before the internet to find any information ,only the Oliver dealer in Geneva.
Suggest this make sure the gears /bearings seals are in spec. What happens sometimes.
 
Wow, still can't upload pictures, well this tread will be boring. Today the OC46 started on its own without an IV. I replaced the wires from starter switch to starter, and negative battery terminal to ground at oil dip stick. I used harbor freight 2/0 solar cables 3' (had a 15% coupon), purchased a marine battery terminal end from autozone to bolt onto cable end.

Usually I have to pull a vehicle down to give it a little more juice, not this time. She cranked over like a dream. It did however rake some time for the pump to get fuel to carburetor since I ran it dry, but once gas got there it fired.

I also built a new cable for the ampmeter to starter switch and switched the terminals. Ampmeter was charging in the positive around 30, then settled down.

Ill add pictures when I can.
 
Asking for assistance with pictures. Can someone provide me good photos of Early OC46 3g fuel pump. It would be much appreciated, and may save me from having to tear the existing fuel pump out.
 
Wow, still can't upload pictures, well this tread will be boring. Today the OC46 started on its own without an IV. I replaced the wires from starter switch to starter, and negative battery terminal to ground at oil dip stick. I used harbor freight 2/0 solar cables 3' (had a 15% coupon), purchased a marine battery terminal end from autozone to bolt onto cable end.

Usually I have to pull a vehicle down to give it a little more juice, not this time. She cranked over like a dream. It did however rake some time for the pump to get fuel to carburetor since I ran it dry, but once gas got there it fired.

I also built a new cable for the ampmeter to starter switch and switched the terminals. Ampmeter was charging in the positive around 30, then settled down.

Ill add pictures when I can.
 

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Got my ammeter. I have some 4 gauge that is long enough to go from alternator to dash. I ordered some terminal ends. Old paper recommends 6 gauge, but ive got 4 left over from another project, and its red.
That 4 gauge or even 6 is way overkill. In most alternator installs on old tractors with 60 to 100 amp alternator a 10 gauge wire is very adequate. Especially if you are running one battery the max charge rate is rarely seen for any length of time short of charging up a dead battery after the machine has been jump started. Well too late already done.
As Tom posted above, if you didn’t claim to be a mechanic before you qualify now. Happy Holidays!
 
That 4 gauge or even 6 is way overkill. In most alternator installs on old tractors with 60 to 100 amp alternator a 10 gauge wire is very adequate. Especially if you are running one battery the max charge rate is rarely seen for any length of time short of charging up a dead battery after the machine has been jump started. Well too late already done.
As Tom posted above, if you didn’t claim to be a mechanic before you qualify now. Happy Holidays!
I actually had a good bit of the 4 gauge left over from a solar install I did. I always end up hoarding extras of stuff. Probably next week or this weekend I'm going to open the final drive up on the right side. It will be interesting since I know they cut on that drive sprocket. I will post pictures of my findings. We've been fighting the bug the last 2 weeks in the household.
 
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I had some time to take the final drive apart. Some things I noticed.
Observations
*The pinion cover plate is a 5 bolt, my other side was a four bolt with plug.
*The 5th bolt was stripped in the cover plate. *There actually was oil in the final drive.
*All teeth on bull gear and pinion gear were in great shape ....whew
*All bearings and races were in good shape minus the outer bearing for bull gear.
*Needed a new oil seal retainer and oil seal for trunnion
*track frame shaft was welded. Looks like fresh welds not original factory, track frame shaft upside down per "key slot". Shouldn't matter though, no key used.
*silicone gasket, held oil, but questionable
*wear marks on bull gear might be from 5th bolt. It was definitely not the correct length.

Updates
*parts ordered
 

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Not much of an update, but got the final drive back together for the most part. I helicoiled the 5th bolt hole on the pinion cover into the final drive cover. I had extra left over from the other side. I figured it would be best since the cover isn't horribly thick, and I could replace the helicoil if it stripped again. I also had to cut the bolt on the back side of the cover so I could get that custom length. I have to order some bolts for the final cover, and get 2 bolts for the pinion cover. Also order some more lug nuts. I will either be able to have tracks back on this week, or this weekend.
 
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