Poor connection

[Rush55]

yes I've use jumper wire and also a screw driver to bypass the ignition and it has cranked like that although seems harder like the battery is weak tested and charged battery. I still have to have jumper cables on tractor battery and negative end grounded to tractor also it won't do nothing with just the battery and no cables hooked I'm sending a picture

bench test starter- I clicked onto you tube video 824 workshop how to test your starter solenoid and it explained how to test your starter and solenoid.

 

[Jim.ME]

yes I've use jumper wire and also a screw driver to bypass the ignition and it has cranked like that although seems harder like the battery is weak tested and charged battery. I still have to have jumper cables on tractor battery and negative end grounded to tractor also it won't do nothing with just the battery and no cables hooked I'm sending a picture

Let's try this, basic answers to some questions to clear things up. Forget your booster cables in answering these, just clear answers to the questions.

1. How and with what was the battery tested?

2.Where does the lug terminal end of battery cable, which is hooked to the battery positive post, connect? post a picture

3. Where does the lug terminal end of battery cable, which is hooked to the battery negative post, connect? post a picture

4. Have you disconnected all the wires that shorted out? Those need to be unhooked to eliminate them at this point.

5. Have you run a new power supply wire to the ignition switch?

6. Have you run a new wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid? This would include wiring from the ignition switch to any safety switches such as a neutral start switch included in the original circuit between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid.

 

[used red MN]

yes I've use jumper wire and also a screw driver to bypass the ignition and it has cranked like that although seems harder like the battery is weak tested and charged battery. I still have to have jumper cables on tractor battery and negative end grounded to tractor also it won't do nothing with just the battery and no cables hooked I'm sending a picture

Please show us a picture of where the negative cable is connecting? Grab your battery cables where they clamp into the those replacement terminal ends. Yank on them like you are pull starting a lawn mower, if they pull out they are not clamping the cable conductors tight enough.

 

[PJH]

Well I been bought new cables for my tractor and it still just clicks when turning the key switch. mechanic at the tractor place said it may be the solonoid

The first thing that you should know - you are bypassing all of the safety features when you jumper directly to the starter. Make sure that the tractor is in neutral and the brakes tightly locked. This has probably already been mentioned. I didn't read every post.

 

[flying belgian]

The first thing that you should know - you are bypassing all of the safety features when you jumper directly to the starter. Make sure that the tractor is in neutral and the brakes tightly locked. This has probably already been mentioned. I didn't read every post.

Right on PJH. This cannot be emphasized enough. Check and recheck that tractor is in neutral.

 

[Destroked 450]

I have the same tractor with the same loader, they use the same style starter as Ford diesel tractors built after 1965
The photo of the jumper cables looks like they are connected from the tractor to another vehicle
If this is correct and you only get clicks without the cables connected but can crank the engine with the cables connected either you have a bad connection at the battery or you have a bad battery

As a safety note I also use Group 49 batteries, but I turn the battery around with the post towards the valve cover, the way yours are positioned puts the cable ends very close to the hood side panel with the opportunity to short out
Doing so would require swapping the cables around or possibly getting a longer ground cable

 

[Janicholson]

If in your image the red cable is just dangling, the black ground cable you do have attached to the battery and frame is doing all the grounding. That is both long as a cable, and they are thin. (reducing the amp capacity, slowing the starter from normal. that black ground (original) cable is not working. remove it and make sure it is sound internally as well as connections. Clean both connections and connetion bolt surfaces and go. Jim

 

[Rush55]

View attachment 82523

I have the same tractor with the same loader, they use the same style starter as Ford diesel tractors built after 1965
The photo of the jumper cables looks like they are connected from the tractor to another vehicle
If this is correct and you only get clicks without the cables connected but can crank the engine with the cables connected either you have a bad connection at the battery or you have a bad battery

As a safety note I also use Group 49 batteries, but I turn the battery around with the post towards the valve cover, the way yours are positioned puts the cable ends very close to the hood side panel with the opportunity to short out
Doing so would require swapping the cables around or possibly getting a longer ground cable

can you send me a picture of the wires go to your ignition switch mine were burned and I was told that the accessory wire was brown and green. I followed the wires up the harness and there is a red wire with white in it coming along side the brown and green wire but they will separate so my question is what function if any is the other wire.this is still my farmtrac 555 I'm talking about. ill send a picture

 

[Rush55]

If in your image the red cable is just dangling, the black ground cable you do have attached to the battery and frame is doing all the grounding. That is both long as a cable, and they are thin. (reducing the amp capacity, slowing the starter from normal. that black ground (original) cable is not working. remove it and make sure it is sound internally as well as connections. Clean both connections and connetion bolt surfaces and go. Jim

 

[Rush55]

I'm sorry I don't follow wha your saying.

 

[Janicholson]

I'm sorry I don't follow wha your saying.

The original black cable is not connecting to ground adequately. either it is corroded internally, broken internally, or one end or the other is not connected to the tractor electrically. Jim

 

[used red MN]

I'm sorry I don't follow wha your saying.

That is why I asked for the picture to see the other end of the negative cable where it is fastened back to the tractor. It could be that the part it is fastened to has lost its connection with the rest of the tractor. It would be odd for it to do this but strange things happen and we often run across them on here. Right now there is a post on this forum on a Ford 801where a gas tank has been collapsed by what appears to be an internal vacuum, not seen often. Grab that negative battery cable where it bolts to the tractor and pull on it as I suggested above. If it pulls apart you will have found one of your problems.

 

[Destroked 450]

I missed the jumper cable being connected to the loader frame
I also see the batteries ground cable connected to the stud on the end of the starter motor
This was a know connection problem with Ford tractors due to corrosion between the stud and starter case

All my Ford tractors and the 555 have the ground cable moved to a starter mounting bolt

Notice the cable connected to the mounting bolt
Relocate the ground cable and I’m 95% certain that will fix the ground cable issue

As for your melted wires as I had said in your other thread the wiring harness on mine had been ripped to pieces
I reworked mine using a modified Ford wiring harness so unfortunately none of my wire colors will match yours

 

[Rush55]

The original black cable is not connecting to ground adequately. either it is corroded internally, broken internally, or one end or the other is not connected to the tractor electrically. Jim

are you talking about cables from battery to the starter. I put new cables on but made no difference

 

[used red MN]

I missed the jumper cable being connected to the loader frame
I also see the batteries ground cable connected to the stud on the end of the starter motor
This was a know connection problem with Ford tractors due to corrosion between the stud and starter case
View attachment 82547
All my Ford tractors and the 555 have the ground cable moved to a starter mounting bolt
View attachment 82546

Notice the cable connected to the mounting bolt
Relocate the ground cable and I’m 95% certain that will fix the ground cable issue

As for your melted wires as I had said in your other thread the wiring harness on mine had been ripped to pieces
I reworked mine using a modified Ford wiring harness so unfortunately none of my wire colors will match yours

There has to be something else wrong with his cable if it is bolted direct to the engine block on the opposite end of the motor. Unless the whole starter face and his bolts have formed that white chalky substance that occurs between aluminum and metal joints; doubtful, but possible. DS not that your recommendation is not proper and a good practice.
Rush, on your wiring as I see it you have 4 choices.
1. Purchase the $125 manual with the wiring diagram.
2. Cut the wiring harness open to follow the burnt wires and replace them.
3. Hire someone who knows auto/truck/tractor electrical systems who can repair it for you.
4. Haul or drive it with temporary wiring to a shop to have it repaired.

 

[rustred]

I found out one thing a good set of jumper cables is a necessity cause are able to get good ground. Can I use battery in my truck and then put positive cable to starter motor that attaches to the solenoid and then ground to frame of tractor

You are missing the diagnosing here. Never mind the solenoid. Connect the booster cables right to the starter hot post. Connecting the ground last to the frame or whatever else is a good ground. Then the engine will want to crank. Then stick it back on the hot solenoid terminal and if it clicks By key , you have found your problem. A BAD solenoid. Do this please. You have 3 items , a battery , a starter , and booster cables. The engine HAS to crank over. Once you determined it will crank and not click its 95 percent solenoid trouble. The solenoid is clicking for a reason as I explained what that clicking is about in post 15. Can do
More checking but that’s enough for now till u confirm this test. Russ also told I the same thing , we are waiting on you to confirm this test.

 

[Rush55]

You are missing the diagnosing here. Never mind the solenoid. Connect the booster cables right to the starter hot post. Connecting the ground last to the frame or whatever else is a good ground. Then the engine will want to crank. Then stick it back on the hot solenoid terminal and if it clicks By key , you have found your problem. A BAD solenoid. Do this please. You have 3 items , a battery , a starter , and booster cables. The engine HAS to crank over. Once you determined it will crank and not click its 95 percent solenoid trouble. The solenoid is clicking for a reason as I explained what that clicking is about in post 15. Can do
More checking but that’s enough for now till u confirm this test. Russ also told I the same thing , we are waiting on you to confi

 

[Rush55]

I have to get another set of battery cables. any suggestions on what kind and where

 

[Jim.ME]

I have to get another set of battery cables. any suggestions on what kind and where

Wait a minute. Why do you need another set of battery cables?

Please read post #22 and reply to the questions in it, before you buy any more parts.

 

[Rush55]

Wait a minute. Why do you need another set of battery cables?

Please read post #22 and reply to the questions in it, before you buy any more parts.