Poor connection

[used red MN]

Well so far I've run wire to fuel shut solenoid and ignition wire from switch to place where positive cable goes to on starter solenoid. the picture of yours is not like mine. I have another small black wire attached to the solenoid which I have used a jumper on when bypassing the ignition. now please be patient I'm trying. now do I run wire from battery terminal on switch to a.wire on the solenoid.

Post a picture of your starter solenoid.

 

[used red MN]

I have another small black wire attached to the solenoid which I have used a jumper on when bypassing the ignition.

On second thought… If this is the terminal you jumped power to that made the starter crank the engine “when bypassing the ignition” then yes that is the last one that needs a connection to it from the switch.

 

[Russ from MN]

201 replies, is that a record?

 

[Rush55]

Oh my goodness son. I really think its time you hook a tow strap to that thing and pull it up to voeh,tech.

I think I got it switch ignition goes to ignitionwire on solenoid. battery wire
on switch goes to where positive battery cable hooks up that's it right!!!

 

[Rush55]

On second thought… If this is the terminal you jumped power to that made the starter crank the engine “when bypassing the ignition” then yes that is the last one that needs a connection to it from the switch.

well I think I got it. see my post to flying belguin

 

[Jim.ME]

I think I got it switch ignition goes to ignitionwire on solenoid. battery wire
on switch goes to where positive battery cable hooks up that's it right!!!

"switch ignition goes to ignitionwire on solenoid" -- No. Switch ignition needs to go to the fuel shut off solenoid.

"battery wire on switch goes to where positive battery cable hooks up" -- Correct

Switch start goes to the terminal on the solenoid that energizes the solenoid (that should be the one you touched the wire to battery positive to make it crank)

 

[Rush55]

"switch ignition goes to ignitionwire on solenoid" -- No. Switch ignition needs to go to the fuel shut off solenoid.

"battery wire on switch goes to where positive battery cable hooks up" -- Correct

Switch start goes to the terminal on the solenoid that energizes the solenoid (that should be the one you touched the wire to battery positive to make it crank)

yes it's a small black wire and the ignition wire goes to it.hot wire goes to where end of positive battery cable .the accessory wire goes to fuel shut

 

[Rush55]

yes it's a small black wire and the ignition wire goes to it.hot wire goes to where end of positive battery cable .the accessory wire goes to fuel shut

on my ignition switch the accessory terminal operates the gauges and the fuel shut off solenoid.

 

[Jim.ME]

on my ignition switch the accessory terminal operates the gauges and the fuel shut off solenoid.

Ok then use the accessory terminal to power the fuel solenoid, instead of the ignition terminal of the switch. I still think you should only hook up the three wires I told you, then try to start it.

Do you have a test light or handheld voltmeter?

 

[Rush55]

Ok then use the accessory terminal to power the fuel solenoid, instead of the ignition terminal of the switch. I still think you should only hook up the three wires I told you, then try to start it.

Do you have a test light or handheld voltmeter?

I'm only gonna hook up three wires. the original accessory was two wires together and right now until I fix them i only use the wire that runs the FSS I'm taking the blue wirec(heater) off so that will leave me with three wires.

 

[Rush55]

I'm only gonna hook up three wires. the original accessory was two wires together and right now until I fix them i only use the wire that runs the FSS I'm taking the blue wirec(heater) off so that will leave me with three wires.

I'm only gonna hook up three wires. the original accessory was two wires together and right now until I fix them i only use the wire that runs the FSS I'm taking the blue wirec(heater) off so that will leave me with three wires.

 

[Jim.ME]

Good.

Can you get a good picture of the back of you switch so we can read where is beside the terminal or make a sketch large enough that you can write what the terminals are beside them? It may help before you are done with this.

Do you have a test light or voltmeter in case we need to have you check something?

 

[Rush55]

Good.

Can you get a good picture of the back of you switch so we can read where is beside the terminal or make a sketch large enough that you can write what the terminals are beside them? It may help before you are done with this.

Do you have a test light or voltmeter in case we need to have you check something?

yes I've checked all terminals and they are good.

 

[Rush55]

yes I've checked all terminals and they are

yes I've checked all terminals and they are good.

 

[Jim.ME]

Is this picture marked up right? I am not worried about colors, only the switch's terminal functions at this time.

 

[Rush55]

Is this picture marked up right? I am not worried about colors, only the switch's terminal functions at this time.View attachment 83321

that's it!!

 

[Rush55]

that's it!!

a couple questions.
1. the hot terminal on switch has two prongs; one bigger than the other on so can I put wire on smaller prong.
2. do I need a smaller guage wire for battery post since it is a bigger (smaller guage)

 

[Jim.ME]

a couple questions.
1. the hot terminal on switch has two prongs; one bigger than the other on so can I put wire on smaller prong.
2. do I need a smaller guage wire for battery post since it is a bigger (smaller guage)

Are you calling the hot terminal, of the switch, the battery post or are you referring to something else?

14 gauge will work for the three temporary wires on the switch you are installing to get this to the voc school. You can use either prong of the hot (battery) terminal on the switch for this temporary wiring. Originally it may have had the wire from the battery post on the larger prong and then a wire from the second (smaller) "hot terminal to the light switch power terminal.

To be clear. The bigger the wire (conductor without any insulation) diameter the smaller the gauge number is. Example: 12-gauge wire is bigger than 14-gauge wire, which is bigger than 16-gauge wire, etc.

 

[Rush55]

Are you calling the hot terminal, of the switch, the battery post or are you referring to something else?

14 gauge will work for the three temporary wires on the switch you are installing to get this to the voc school. You can use either prong of the hot (battery) terminal on the switch for this temporary wiring. Originally it may have had the wire from the battery post on the larger prong and then a wire from the second (smaller) "hot terminal to the light switch power terminal.

To be clear. The bigger the wire (conductor without any insulation) diameter the smaller the gauge number is. Example: 12-gauge wire is bigger than 14-gauge wire, which is bigger than 16-gauge wire, etc.

all wired up so let's see what happens. old wires off and taped up

 

[Rush55]

Good you have it cranking without using the booster cable.

You mentioned taking it to a vocational school to have them rewire it. To help you with that I am attaching a rough wiring diagram (of what I wrote in my post the other night) you should be able to use to make it run enough to load it and get it to the vocational school for a proper rewiring.

Do not attach any of the old wires there may be short circuits inside the harness you cannot see.

This wiring bypasses any safety switches, such as neutral start, the tractor may have. Be sure it is in neutral before cranking and it would be best if you were in the seat.

View attachment 83096

thanks for the diagram wired up and it cranked . thank you Lord