Replacing the pto (ford 501) ?

[Emanuel Dion]

Hello everyone. I am currently working on restoring a Ford 501 mower, but the PTO is completely stuck, due to rust. As a result, I can't connect it to the tractor's powr take-off. So, I have two questions:

1. Is there any way to fix this issue (though I doubt it)?
2. Has anyone among you ever replaced the PTO of a Ford 501 with a new one? If so, how did you do that ? Apparently, the parts are hard to find.

Thanks !

 

[caterpillar guy]

If you can squirt some oil down the pipe side of the drive shaft then let soak for a few days and then with a big hammer drive it length ways to extend it or put a chain through the yoke or a bolt in the shaft hole to pull on while pounding you can pull them apart. Sometimes you need to heat them so the rust is cracked loose. I usually just get the sheild loose slide it back os I can get to the shaft to heat then go to work with heat and tension. They will come loose. Then keep them oiled or even grease the grease fitting on the slide of them. Usually a hole that when extended by hand you will se one in either sleeve or just the inside one then turn it till the fitting aligns and grease it well probably about 10 squirts. Parked under cover helps that alot. setting out in the weather set it so the water doesn't run down the inside of the sleeve and shaft.

 

[Emanuel Dion]

(reply to post at 05:25:54 07/18/23)

Sounds good. I'll try that. Thank you !

 

[300guy]

If you can find someone with a flatbed tow truck, the winch cable really works nice to pull them apart. I've used a product called Freeze off and it really works good to loosen rusted parts. Then on the truck chain one end to the tailgate and hook the other end to the winch. Start pulling gently and it should come apart. Just be gentle so it doesn't fly apart and go into the cab or window of the truck. I have done this with drive shafts and hydraulic cylinders.

 

[Emanuel Dion]

Thank you !

 

[paul]

Usually they are froze together while completely collapsed, short. So the outer shield needs to be cut off, so you can heat the actual outer shaft up. Heat and some pressure will get them free, it can take some work tho.

Paul

 

[Leroy]

When see Ford 501 think of the offset tractor, not a mower.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

"Parts are hard to find?"

It appears that the shafts, crosses, and yokes (all except the rear yoke, and then only because of the splined shaft it's attached to) are common Weasler 12 Series. You can get all the parts to replace the shaft with a new one at your local Tractor Supply.

This guy right here:
https://www.external_link.com/tsc/product/weasler-north-american-driveline-12-series

Simply take apart the cross at the rearmost yoke, and reuse that yoke on the new shaft.

Of course that's a last resort thing, if you can't find any other way to free up the old shaft.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

"Parts are hard to find?"

It appears that the shafts, crosses, and yokes (all except the rear yoke, and then only because of the splined shaft it's attached to) are common Weasler 12 Series. You can get all the parts to replace the shaft with a new one at your local Tractor Supply.

This guy right here:
https://www.external_link.com/tsc/product/weasler-north-american-driveline-12-series

Simply take apart the cross at the rearmost yoke, and reuse that yoke on the new shaft.

Of course that's a last resort thing, if you can't find any other way to free up the old shaft.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

"Parts are hard to find?"

It appears that the shafts, crosses, and yokes (all except the rear yoke, and then only because of the splined shaft it's attached to) are common Weasler 12 Series. You can get all the parts to replace the shaft with a new one at your local Tractor Supply.

Simply take apart the cross at the rearmost yoke, and reuse that yoke on the new shaft.

Of course that's a last resort thing, if you can't find any other way to free up the old shaft.