W4 stuck transmission

13fx

Member
Been working on the W4 I picked up a couple weeks ago and hauled it out of the shop for yet another bath. I decided to leave it sloped backwards a bit on a hill to help the dirt and grunge rinse off the operating platform better. After I was done with it I didn't have anyone around to help move it onto a flat spot so I figured I'd leave it in gear and drag it along with my 300u. Well I dragged it up the hill no problem except for the fact that the tires wouldn't budge in the slightest. I had noticed before that the belt pulley pulley was frozen, but didn't put to much thought into it other than I could just pull it off and get a delete plate for it. Now however, I'm thinking I have a major problem and leaning towards water having rusted something on the gear set all to heck. When I had a couple of Hs sometimes the one would get stuck in two gears and I'm hoping that that's just what this is, but I don't remember the belt pulley housing ever locking when that happened. I'm going to tear into it tomorrow, I'm hoping someone has run into this before and it's something as simple as being stuck in 2 gears.
 

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I have a w4 similar to yours with the band rims etc. not sure where your located but I should be able to help u out
920 946 3875.
 
I would suspect you either have a brake band binding /stuck or when you drug it up on the level it now has tension against the gears somehow where the tires slid. I doubt the pulley drive has anything to do with it and if you need to check the lever for in or out on it. Out it should turn freely while in should not turn without engine running.
 
From what u are saying I would say your engine is seized. Also washing a tractor with the exhaust pipe open and water getting into the cylinders is another no no. I see the crank in the front. Will the engine turn over out of gear ?and with the belt pulley lever pulled out it dill not turn as its engaged and it should turn the engine over putting some effort into it. With lever in the pulley will freewheel. Highly dought u have a stuck trans. Brake bands are possible , but don’t usually stick like the disc brakes. So u have some checks to do now.
 
Just put the head back on yesterday motor turns over fine, were not used yesterday. Pulley don't care where you put the lever it's stuck like a kid on cake. After I have my coffee I'll pull the tank and the pulley housing. As for washing the tractor, I was washing the frame and front, not to worried about a small amount of fine mist. What ever the problem is is going to be in front of the rear and behind the clutch.
 
Just put the head back on yesterday motor turns over fine, were not used yesterday. Pulley don't care where you put the lever it's stuck like a kid on cake. After I have my coffee I'll pull the tank and the pulley housing. As for washing the tractor, I was washing the frame and front, not to worried about a small amount of fine mist. What ever the problem is is going to be in front of the rear and behind the clutch.
Well I'm waiting on my coffee just to make sure took the W-4 out of gear cranked the motor by hand moved just fine drove forward to 300 and W-4 attached wheels turned just fine when it's out of gear.
 
Been working on the W4 I picked up a couple weeks ago and hauled it out of the shop for yet another bath. I decided to leave it sloped backwards a bit on a hill to help the dirt and grunge rinse off the operating platform better. After I was done with it I didn't have anyone around to help move it onto a flat spot so I figured I'd leave it in gear and drag it along with my 300u. Well I dragged it up the hill no problem except for the fact that the tires wouldn't budge in the slightest. I had noticed before that the belt pulley pulley was frozen, but didn't put to much thought into it other than I could just pull it off and get a delete plate for it. Now however, I'm thinking I have a major problem and leaning towards water having rusted something on the gear set all to heck. When I had a couple of Hs sometimes the one would get stuck in two gears and I'm hoping that that's just what this is, but I don't remember the belt pulley housing ever locking when that happened. I'm going to tear into it tomorrow, I'm hoping someone has run into this before and it's something as simple as being stuck in 2 gears.
Never been so happy to have an international stuck in 2 gears. The slider for 5 as you can see is sticking out. The shifter was in neutral at that point and the slider should not have been showing. The pulley housing is still frozen solid even out of the tractor so the two things were not related. I've since put the slider back into it's proper place, but every time I throw the tractor into 5 and then back into neutral the slider hangs up. What's the weight on the top cover, it sure done look lite to me.
 

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Never been so happy to have an international stuck in 2 gears. The slider for 5 as you can see is sticking out. The shifter was in neutral at that point and the slider should not have been showing. The pulley housing is still frozen solid even out of the tractor so the two things were not related. I've since put the slider back into it's proper place, but every time I throw the tractor into 5 and then back into neutral the slider hangs up. What's the weight on the top cover, it sure done look lite to me.
kit for H will work.

There is a "sloppy shift kit for IH tractors {link) The tip of the shifter also needs to be built up and made nice again.
images.jpg
 
kit for H will work.

There is a "sloppy shift kit for IH tractors {link) The tip of the shifter also needs to be built up and made nice again.View attachment 69653
I've got to get it back in the shop today and get the cover off before I make any final decisions here but, the goal is to make money off this machine not getting upside down replacing worn transmission parts. Im leaning towards parting this one out.
 

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I've got to get it back in the shop today and get the cover off before I make any final decisions here but, the goal is to make money off this machine not getting upside down replacing worn transmission parts. Im leaning towards parting this one out.
Just replacing that pivot pin with a bolt with the threads and head cut off will actually fix it. It is rusty, nut if running and moving selling as is might be far less labor. Jim
 
Just replacing that pivot pin with a bolt with the threads and head cut off will actually fix it. It is rusty, nut if running and moving selling as is might be far less labor. Jim
I thought about just running the bolt in there cuz that pin is definitely done but I get hung up on not making things perfect when it's time to sell something. Always been a big problem mine I always end up putting way too much time and effort into things that don't need doing I don't add value.
 
Where are you located if you decide to part it out? I bought w4 project that ended up having a bad engine, drained more water out of the crankcase than the radiator when I tore into it. Thanks, Mike
 
I thought about just running the bolt in there cuz that pin is definitely done but I get hung up on not making things perfect when it's time to sell something. Always been a big problem mine I always end up putting way too much time and effort into things that don't need doing I don't add value.
Parting out a W series is way mor challenging than a Farmall for one reason, they are in much less demand. Engine in running shape with oil pressure and compression specs would be fine, all other parts are way more difficult. Me it would get a pin in the tower and be gone with a as is where is document. Jim
 
Where are you located if you decide to part it out? I bought w4 project that ended up having a bad engine, drained more water out of the crankcase than the radiator when I tore into it. Thanks, Mike
Eastern Washington State.
 

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