130 ignition issues

[KentuckyHick]

Greetings, new to the forum, Ive read through a bunch of old post but cant find anything like what Im dealing with. I recently started working on a 58 130, it would start and run fine but wasnt charging. It is a positive ground system. I replaced the regulator and the wiring from generator A terminal to GEN terminal on regulator, & F terminal on generator to F terminal on regulator. I also changed wire from BAT terminal back to the positive post on the charging gauge. And the wire from the L terminal back to ignition switch. I also changed the wiring on the distributor to the positive post on coil and negative post on coil back to ignition switch. Also changed the wire from starter switch back to charging gauge. I replaced the wires one at a time and looked at a service manual and I believe I have it wired correctly. Now it wont start at all. Like I mentioned I believe I have it wired correctly but now no start. I can use a jumper wire from negative terminal on coil to the negative battery post and it will start right up. I was thinking maybe the switch, I have removed it and cleaned where the switch mounts to the control panel but it didnt help. Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions. Im stumped.

 

[rvirgil_KS]

Do you have voltage at the input negative post of the coil. If not start tracing back to see where you lose it.

 

[used red MN]

As Virgil suggested you need to track down where the
..lack of electrical continuity.. has occurred. That
simply means the loss of connection. I recommend
getting a automotive test light. Clamp the lead on the
battery positive lead which should be going to the
chassis grounding cable. Then place the probe on the
negative post and insure that the test light comes on.
Now if the lead is not long enough to get to the coil
you can connect the test light clamp on lead
anywhere on the tractor frame or metal parts, but I
would recommend keeping the jumper wire you used
to run the engine connected to the battery negative
terminal to test that your light is making a proper
connection at the point you clamp it on. By starting
the tractor with the jumper wire you have proven there
is no power at the lead to the coil ..neg. terminal.. so
start at the switch, with it in the on position there
should be power at both terminals. If not you need to
go back to the amp gauge terminal and see if you
have power there. If not then test back to the point
you connected the the starter switch. Please don’t
take this wrong but a common problem I have found
created by people who haven’t done a lot of this type
of work is when they use crimp on terminal ends they
accidentally crimp the insulation and not the wire. If
this is the case the light should help you find it, as one
end of the wire will have power and the other
won’t.The charging system wires you changed will not
keep it from starting as you have found by hot wiring
the coil.

 

[KentuckyHick]

I have tested it with a test light and when the switch is on or off I have power to both sides of the amp gauge. I dont have power back from the gauge to the regulator. Should I have power at the L terminal on the regulator when the switch is on? Also when the switch is on there is no power at the switch. But I have removed it and tested it with an OHM meter, it test OL when its in the off position and .1 when it is in the on position so I would assume the it is good. Thanks for any help

 

[KentuckyHick]

If I hot wire and start the tractor I have power to both sides of the switch if the switch is on. If I turn the switch off I only have power to the starter side of the switch. Also while it is running I have power to both the BAT & L terminals on the regulator. Could the regulator not be grounded good and causing my issue? Also before I rewired I had discharge on the gauge not the gauge doesnt move at all.

 

[rvirgil_KS]

You should have power at all times to both sides of amp gauge when battery is connected.

" I have power to both sides of the amp gauge. I dont have power back from the gauge to the regulator." You have a bad (open) connection in that wire. It should go to BAT terminal on regulator.

"Should I have power at the L terminal on the regulator when the switch is on? Also when the switch is on there is no power at the switch."

The BAT terminal on regulator connects to cutout relay. When engine is off, or idled down so charge voltage is lower than battery voltage, the relay opens to disconnect the battery so it does not discharge. When charge goes above battery voltage the relay closes and generator charges battery and feeds operating voltage to lights and ignition.

The BAT terminal also connects internally to the L terminal. BAT and L should be "hot" at all times. With a break in connection to ammeter to BAT on regulator you are not getting power to the L terminal and then to the switch.

 

[used red MN]

The third reply in this post in the attached link I
believe shows a wiring diagram applicable to your
tractor even though it is shown for a Super H.
Wiring diagram

 

[KentuckyHick]

That is what the wiring diagram looks like that I have. I guess my next step is to go back to the wires from the regulator and check them.