1967 IH Farmal gas 656 coolant in oil pan.

[Buck2A]

Hello, new tractor owner and forum member.

Not a Hydro. The guy said it got stuck in neutral while working in a hay field. It sat for one year in the field with a rain cap on the muffler. Upon inspection the radiator was dry under the cap and the engine oil fill spout was full. Water on the lower portion of the dipstick. He said that he change oil every year. Took it home and drained the oil pan. Approximately 5 gallons of coolant and the oil came out...finally. Antifreeze was sitting on top of #6 cyl. and spilled out upon removal of the spark plug and fluid on top of #2 but I'm sure if its coolant yet. My suspicion is water from the exhaust manifold exhaust pipe inlet.
It has been suggested to me to remove the head and have it checked out & machine if needed.
My questions are..., should I do this and / or should I do any more diagnosing? I considered adding new fluids and running it a bit first.
Could this be a head gasket or is it more likely to be a crack in the head or block?
I am not too much concerned about the shifter / trans yet but I'm open to suggestions and advise.
I do have a service manual on the way for this tractor.

Thanks in advance!!

 

[used red MN]

He posted this in the Restoration and Repair topic
section. In the link is the reply I have him.
My Previous Reply

 

[Mrfred54]

Neutral issue- remove battery from lower steering column, remove battery and plate
battery sits on and that will expose the three shifting rods that go into the tranny.
If none move in or out with the handle then I would suspect the pin fell out of the
shift shaft that the handle slides in and out at the top of the three linkage rods.
Engine issue- first thing I would do is maybe pull the pan and clean it and the oil
sump screen. With pan removed fill radiator with water and watch for water to leak
through block if you have a crack. While letting set to watch for a leak remove plugs
and get some penetrate oil in the cylinders. If no leaks after a couple hours try
cranking it over. If it cranks over then I would check compression and if a cylinder
or two is low I would remove valve cover to look for stuck valve. Good luck

 

[Buck2A]

Thank you MrFred54! That sounds like a good start.

 

[Buck2A]

Update.
Due to health reasons, I am just getting back on this project. I removed the head last night to discover a severe crack in the #2 cylinder sleeve. I did glance at the other sleeves and they look ok but I cannot be sure if it the only one. I can't imagine that the previous owner would have ran this tractor like this so my guess is that rain water entered in through the exhaust valve. I hope that the block is not cracked. Should I pull the engine or can it be done in chassis?

 

[Mrfred54]

With the sleeve cracked, the block has to be cracked to. This is a dry sleeve engine. If you can get the sleeves out then you can asses the damage to the block. Or just remove the engine and take it to a reputable machine shop. Hope you stay healthy

 

[caterpillar guy]

IF the block is cracked the bore can be bored out to accept an insert for the engine sleeve then the sleeve is installed. This keeps that hole to the original size with the rest and it works fine. I had that done to my D361 in an 806 back in the early /mid 80's still working fine today used regularly most of the year. Did heavy tillage with it like that for 15 years now just runs mower,baler and lighter duty since most of the rest of the equipment has out grown it now.snow plow in winter.