3388 Hydraulic pump revisited

[haymaker421]

Same old problem. New pump installed. Put in magnets to collect any debris in the rearend. Changed the filters. Put in new HyTran. Hitched up the plow and away I went. Got all the plowing done with no real hydraulic problems, except the remote levers wouldn't return or kick back to home position. Seemed unusual but not a big problem. Now getting ready to disk. Hitched to a JD 220 disk but hydraulics won't raise the disk. And won't raise the wings. Trys to but won't do it. The hydraulics will raise the wheels off the ground but when the wheels go back down they just stop when the hit the ground. The three point worked OK on the plow and still raises and lowers fine. Raised and lowered the tail wheel just fine. The other thing that seems to be a problem is the steering when idling at slow rpm. It just locks up and won't turn. This seems to be getting worse.
After rereading what I have just written, I am wondering, could this be something as simple as replacing the filters again? After the old pump was torn up I put in lots of magnets everywhere I could and as I said, replaced the filters but could it be that the circulation of the oil has stirred up more foreign matter and shavings and plugged the filters causing the system to be starved for oil?

 

[Anonymous-0]

This series tractors was problematic with its hydraulics, from what you describe it sounds like the hose couplers and/or tips not matched, to illustrate take tips & push the balls against each other, if they dont push each other evenly to full open find some that will, also the coupler body same way. This always occured with heavy load like a disk. Next check color of Hytran, it should be clear caramel with no filings. Next check system with hyd flo-rater.

 

[haymaker421]

I really appreciate your advice, but the hydraulic system operated the tail wheel on the plow and the tips are the same as the disk. I guess the first thing I will try is changing the filters. That is the cheapest thing and you can't change filters too often. Then I will start on the more expensive stuff. But thanks.

 

[pete 23]

Was reading your post. Know this isn't going to help your sitation but we had a test procedure that worked well for isolating the pump from all the rest of the hydraulic valves etc. With all the signal check valves etc in this system some weird things take place and it was always good to know if the pump and supply was working properly before you started tracing down other areas. The max pressure is actually controlled in the pump compensator but you have an added safety relief valve in the draft control housing. Just a tiny bit of crud in that compensator can really mess things up. With that original style screen, thermal bypass valve system on the filter a lot of junk can go through. There is also a couple of small orfices and screen that can get plugged. I took a lot of them compensators apart and did some polishing but that was like 20 plus years ago. That is where the isolating it to the pump itself was really nice. Took some time to hook up for the test so I am sure some didn't care to do it. Of course these tools came from IH so independent shops didn't have them unless they picked them up at a dealer close out .

 

[Anonymous-0]

I understand your problem,however if you use the same remote cylinder the disc is much heavier load to lift, I would still like for you to take the tips and push just balls in against each other, I worked at IH dealers for 37 years at parts counter, this was always easy & by far cheapest thing to check out first. Ball tips spring pressure varied a lot between manufacturers, or point tips also.