Case 411 grinding gears

[Codytorg]

So I just bought my first case and it's a 411. I can start it in gear with clutch pushed in and drive in that gear but if I try to shift the gears grind and won't go into gear. If I start it in neutral I can not get it into gear either. I assume either the clutch needs adjusting or potentially needs to be replaced. Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[John Saeli]

Sounds like the disc is stuck to the flywheel or pressure plate. Not so uncommon an occurrence when something with a clutch sets for a while.
On the left side of the bell housing you should have an access plate. Remove it and look in there. You will see the back side of the pressure
plate and once in a while a glimpse of the disc. Start spraying your favorite rust penetrant at both, and take a rod of some kind and gently
tap against the plate and disc edge. The other possibility is a broken finger on the pressure plate. Look for that.

 

[John Saeli]

I forgot to mention that while tapping, have someone depress the clutch pedal.

 

[nick831]

John, I read in one of your posts that all case tractors had a wet disk clutch? Maybe I was mistaken. Just curious for future purchases. Thanks Nick

 

[tomturkey]

Nick, that thread was talking about DC tractors only, the 411 has a dry clutch. gobble

 

[chuck machinist]

(quoted from post at 20:04:13 09/09/23) I forgot to mention that while tapping, have someone depress the clutch pedal.

You may wish to check the fly wheel face while you are in there. When I went into mine to replace the clutch, the fly wheel had stress cracks and I had it reground. No need to go into her twice. Just saying. CM

 

[Codytorg]

Thank you for the information! I will take a look at that and mess around with it Monday.

 

[nick831]

Thanks for the info I appreciate it. Nick

 

[r.w.b.]

curious is it a 411 or 411b? that could be huge game changer

411

411b behind 411

 

[Codytorg]

It's a 411 not the 411b based on what I've been told. The 411b has the caseomatic vs the dry clutch?

 

[r.w.b.]

yes sir why i asked. reading what you posted sounded like cold case o matic with
too thick an oil. but its a racine 411,what others posted is all proper information.
i will add in another thing rarely happens but they do is a worn spot on the
clutch shaft splines .
i send you best of luck getting her fixed.
might even lost a pin out of 1 clutch finger too

 

[Codytorg]

So after a day of soaking it was able to shift decently smooth through the low 4 but would still kind grind trying reverse or high gears. So I've been spraying it daily and will try again tomorrow to see if it has freed up all the way. What other problems could it be and how hard is a clutch job on them? Seems pretty straight forward from what I can see by looking at it.

 

[Codytorg]

(quoted from post at 07:45:39 09/09/23) Sounds like the disc is stuck to the flywheel or pressure plate. Not so uncommon an occurrence when something with a clutch sets for a while.
On the left side of the bell housing you should have an access plate. Remove it and look in there. You will see the back side of the pressure
plate and once in a while a glimpse of the disc. Start spraying your favorite rust penetrant at both, and take a rod of some kind and gently
tap against the plate and disc edge. The other possibility is a broken finger on the pressure plate. Look for that.

So I've been trying that and now back to square one, thought it was freeing up as I could go from 1-4 fine but didn't block it for a few days on accident and not can't shift through any again. How hard to tap on the pressure plate? Also how big of a job is splitting it to do a clutch? Called the dealer and they quoted me 3k plus parts...

 

[chuck machinist]

(quoted from post at 02:10:34 09/25/23)

(quoted from post at 07:45:39 09/09/23) Sounds like the disc is stuck to the flywheel or pressure plate. Not so uncommon an occurrence when something with a clutch sets for a while.
On the left side of the bell housing you should have an access plate. Remove it and look in there. You will see the back side of the pressure
plate and once in a while a glimpse of the disc. Start spraying your favorite rust penetrant at both, and take a rod of some kind and gently
tap against the plate and disc edge. The other possibility is a broken finger on the pressure plate. Look for that.

So I've been trying that and now back to square one, thought it was freeing up as I could go from 1-4 fine but didn't block it for a few days on accident and not can't shift through any again. How hard to tap on the pressure plate? Also how big of a job is splitting it to do a clutch? Called the dealer and they quoted me 3k plus parts...

Are you trying to shift on the run/ you can but you must be at idle and practice at idle on the run. Splitting is a weekend project. Look for a 3 pad clutch assembly, and ask yourself, do I grind the flywheel. You will know after you split her. I still had heat stress marks on flywheel , but field work is not what she was going to do. Parades and tractor rides. Let us know what you find on the split! Fix her right the first time, and you will never have to split her again. Rear Main seal. Replace it on the split. You will thank me later .CM