Case 530 CK parked for 10 years

I don't think it is hydro locked since i pulled the injectors. I added Marvel Mystery oil to each cylinder through the injector hole till they were full.
 
i would just pull the head,.. its 1 1/2 hr job. then the proof is in the pudding. you been at this for over 2 weeks and still in the same spot. and it would have been running by now.
If we can't get this motor to turn with the new adapter plate my neighbor is milling today then I will got to the head. The only issue that concerns me is I've read about a mystery bolt in side the water pump that bolts horizontally into the head. Is this correct? if so, I'm not sure how to get to that one.
 
i would just pull the head,.. its 1 1/2 hr job. then the proof is in the pudding. you been at this for over 2 weeks and still in the same spot. and it would have been running by now.
I was going to let him monkey around with his machinist friends “rotatater device” and after he had himself convinced that there was no other way then tell him, yep might as well given in and pop the top off the kettle, she ain’t going to boil!
 
If we can't get this motor to turn with the new adapter plate my neighbor is milling today then I will got to the head. The only issue that concerns me is I've read about a mystery bolt in side the water pump that bolts horizontally into the head. Is this correct? if so, I'm not sure how to get to that one.
I don’t think such bolts exist, there may be some that screw into the top water outlet. A man put it on there another man can take it off.
This thing is an industrial tractor like a backhoe correct? If so here is the diagrams for it.
CNHI Case CK530 online parts catalog
 
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I don’t think such bolts exist, there may be some that screw into the top water outlet. A man put it on there another man can take it off.
This thing is an industrial tractor like a backhoe correct. If so here is the diagrams for it.
CNHI Case CK530 online parts catalog
thats a great diagram for reference. by the look of it, the water pump must attach to the front of that head diagram and I don't see any mystery bolts.
 
thats a great diagram for reference. by the look of it, the water pump must attach to the front of that head diagram and I don't see any mystery bolts.
The last Case 188 diesel I had apart DID have a bolt into the front of head, the water pump must be removed to see it as it goes through the timing cover top into the head front. Far as I'm concerned it's a SILLY design, there should be no need to bolt a timing cover to a cylinder head front.
 
I was going to let him monkey around with his machinist friends “rotatater device” and after he had himself convinced that there was no other way then tell him, yep might as well given in and pop the top off the kettle, she ain’t going to boil!
Shame on you Red for not having faith in Oklahoma ingenuity and our "rotatater device". I'm trying to post a 15 second video I made of our success, but I can't seem to upload the video. I've clicked on the "insert video" tab and I drag my video to the box and it uploads to 100%. Then i get a failure notice and to try again or contact the administrator.
 
The last Case 188 diesel I had apart DID have a bolt into the front of head, the water pump must be removed to see it as it goes through the timing cover top into the head front. Far as I'm concerned it's a SILLY design, there should be no need to bolt a timing cover to a cylinder head front.
It appears by Dieseltechs information that there indeed is a bolt accessed by removing the water pump. See #15 in this link.
Case 188 diesel timing cover diagram
I have not tried to directly post a video here since the software switch. I would guess the length of the video cannot be to long so the size of the file is not to large. Another post I saw a video in says it is 4.4MB. So if you can’t show us, tell us that you have gotten the engine freed up and turning, if so congratulations!
 
With the help of my great neighbor who built the rotating adapter plate we bolted to the front of the crankshaft we did get it freed. It was not easy. After the adapter was bolted on, we had 16" of 1.5" solid round stock protruding out the front. It stuck out just enough to get a 3 foot long pipe wrench on it. We tried to rotate it backwards but she did not want to rotate. We kept trying a little more force in the counter clockwise direction. Finally with about 700 foot pounds applied on the pipe wrench, the motor rolled backwards a little. We then turned it back and forth with the pipe wrench till we had several full rotations with no drag. We then used the starter to spin it and it blew all the liquid I had added to the cylinders all over my buddies truck. Along with the fine mist of greasy fluid on my buddies 71 C-10 was also a fine misting of small rust particles that came out as well. The compression was so great, when it rolled over with the starter I had all 4 injectors just sitting in the holes. It blew everyone of them out of the injector holes and into the yard.

Never give up!!!!

Going to install the injectors today and see if i can get any fuel pumped up to them. She might run today!!!
 
That’s sounds great. Now on to your next dilemma an injection pump that has stuck internal parts from sitting and won’t pump fuel. Maybe you will get lucky twice. :unsure:
 
Can i flush the injector pump with anything?
Nope, it's either going to work or not IF it has stuck internal parts like most pumps I get in for repair that have set awhile. I'd leave the injectors out for now, that will make cranking easier to see if injection pump MIGHT work. With stop cable IN, and engine cranking you SHOULD see a small shot of fuel out each line when pump works right. Fuel SHOULD stop with the stop cable pulled out, and restart when pushed back in. If you DO have fuel you're lucky, put the injectors in and see if engine will start.
 
That’s sounds great. Now on to your next dilemma an injection pump that has stuck internal parts from sitting and won’t pump fuel. Maybe you will get lucky twice. :unsure:
Well call me lucky twice!!!! We got it running after I remembered to have the fuel knob on the dash pushed in and not pulled out. After reconnecting the injector lines and the return lines, I still had a pretty good leak on the injectors and maybe the return lines as well when it was running. I can't remember if the injector lines had compression style fittings or were there o-rings/some type of gasket on the injectors and the returns.
 
Well lucky indeed! Older fuels were less likely to cause the parts to stick in the pumps, but it is still a flip of the coin. The lines have special tapered flares on them no orings. Maybe Dieseltech will drop in and give you a proper name for them. This must mean the drive train or clutch is toast. :devilish: Seems like you keep proving the PO right that he parked it due to hydraulic leaks.
 
So I installed the rad and reconnected the transmission coolant lines and fired it up so it could run with a coolant source and it did great except the injector 2 and 3 are leaking fluid at the inlet connection. Diesel Tech gave me some advise on how i might be able to fix this. So now that it runs with good oil pressure, I will replace all the filters (both fuel filters, tranny filter, oil filter). I ordered all the filters today to include the transmission filter located near the rad. I noticed when i had the coolant lines disconnected from the rad and i was cranking the motor, the oil from the tranny filter was pumping out a terrible looking oil that looked more like mud than oil. I plan to drain all the tranny fluid from the tractor. From what I saw in the manual there are two places to drain on the bottom of the tranny assembly. One drain is to drain the high and low selector and the other drain plug is for the converter. The manual also indicates to roll the engine over to align the converter up over the drain plug and you can remove another plug from the converter itself.

Would this be the best plan to drain all the old tranny fluid out? Is there only one place to fill both of these locations or do they have two different fill points. I noticed a dip stick on the right side of tractor near my right foot and large plug just in front of the dipstick. Is this removable plug the fill point? I do have what appears to be another fill point located near my left foot where a pipe is bending upwards near the shuttle shift lever. It does have a cap on it down inside the pipe, but looks like some of the cap is gone because there is not way to remove this cap.

I plan to use Dexron III to replace the tranny fluid. Is there a rear end fluid i need to drain and replace? Did I miss any other filters?
 
I reviewed the manual and located two drain plugs under the tractor. According to the manual, both plugs drain the torque tube. After you remove the drain plugs I need to rotate the engine and line up the torque converter so I can remove a plug in the torque converter so I can drain the torque converter. With the TQ correctly lined up, there should also be a plug to be removed in the dual range housing that is also accessed through the rear drain.

The manual says to refill the torque tube and the converter. How/ where do I refill? Does this refill replace what I drain out of the torque tube, the TC and the dual range housing?

I will replace the filter TC filter located in front of the radiator. The manual mentions the hydraulic system oil filter. Is the same filter used for the TC?
 

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Not real familiar with that machine. I believe there is a fill tube or port on top somewhere. Check the other “routine service” areas of your manual it may cover it there. The torque converter will be refilled by oil being pumped in it. When running fluid is constantly pumped through the converter for cooling, same as ANY automatic transmission. Is the Dextron called out as the required fluid?
 

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