Case 530 CK parked for 10 years

[TapRackFire]

Not real familiar with that machine. I believe there is a fill tube or port on top somewhere. Check the other “routine service” areas of your manual it may cover it there. The torque converter will be refilled by oil being pumped in it. When running fluid is constantly pumped through the converter for cooling, same as ANY automatic transmission. Is the Dextron called out as the required fluid?

I found the dexron III as a suggestion on this forum. Said it would prevent gears from grinding. I downloaded the manual from this website. I don’t think it is a complete workshop manual. But I can’t figure out where to refill all of this. I’m sure someone on this forum has the answer. What looks like a natural fill point would be the TC breather tube. It’s located on the left side of the battery tray. You can see it in figure 18 in the attached photo.

 

[used red MN]

That type of info is in the operators manual. Just bite the bullet and fork over a few bucks and get one. It will eliminate the “guess” about 100’s of things and show you how to operate it properly. Could actually save you $100’s in the end.

 

[TapRackFire]

Is that available on this site?

 

[Jim.ME]

Is that available on this site?

They have a number of them. Click on Tractor Manuals in the banner near the top of the page. Then select Case which will take you to the case grouping. Use the model list to find 530CK and you will see a number of options, pick the operator's manual from the listings that best matches your tractor.

 

[TapRackFire]

Finally got my filters in and discovered I ordered the wrong final fuel filter. Had to put the old final filter back on so I could run it. I did get the injectors to stop leaking thanks to Red and Dieseltech. Just had to unscrew them and screw them back in several times. Filled the torque tube with 3 quarts of Dexron III and installed the new torque converter filter. I have the back tires in the air and started the tractor and ran it through all the gears, high/low and the shuttle shift for backwards and forwards. Seemed to do great. Only the left wheel would spin. My right wheel is still locked up. Thinking it is a locked break.

My front tires were shot and took them to my neighbors house since he has a tire machine and some used truck tires 16" 10plys. We got the 16" tires on rims with a little difficulty. After I reinstalled the tires back on the tractor we discovered the rims are 16.5". What size tires do I need to run? These wrong tires seemed too wide since they were smashing into the steering control arms. I don't think I'll ever be able to turn left or right.

I did fill the power steering unit with fluid and started to bleed the air out of the system by slowly turning left and right. Was going pretty good till I blew a hose. Back to the hose store.

 

[WilBury]

Further to the mystery drilled bolt behind the water pump-

If removing the head or reworking the engine, mEl, a former Case mechanic here, says they left it out on rebuilds so you don't have to pull the water pump just to retorque the head! Just seal that front gasket well...
I had my rebuilder install a drilled setscrew instead that's flush with the block.

 

[TapRackFire]

Thanks for the update!

Further to the mystery drilled bolt behind the water pump-

If removing the head or reworking the engine, mEl, a former Case mechanic here, says they left it out on rebuilds so you don't have to pull the water pump just to retorque the head! Just seal that front gasket well...
I had my rebuilder install a drilled setscrew instead that's flush with the block.

thanks for the updated info!

 

[Jim.ME]

Finally got my filters in and discovered I ordered the wrong final fuel filter. Had to put the old final filter back on so I could run it. I did get the injectors to stop leaking thanks to Red and Dieseltech. Just had to unscrew them and screw them back in several times. Filled the torque tube with 3 quarts of Dexron III and installed the new torque converter filter. I have the back tires in the air and started the tractor and ran it through all the gears, high/low and the shuttle shift for backwards and forwards. Seemed to do great. Only the left wheel would spin. My right wheel is still locked up. Thinking it is a locked break.

My front tires were shot and took them to my neighbors house since he has a tire machine and some used truck tires 16" 10plys. We got the 16" tires on rims with a little difficulty. After I reinstalled the tires back on the tractor we discovered the rims are 16.5". What size tires do I need to run? These wrong tires seemed too wide since they were smashing into the steering control arms. I don't think I'll ever be able to turn left or right.

I did fill the power steering unit with fluid and started to bleed the air out of the system by slowly turning left and right. Was going pretty good till I blew a hose. Back to the hose store.

The 530CK parts book shows rim Case part # A38404 for a 7.50 x 16 tire $ rib may be a bit better on a loader tractor than the tri-rib ones. I would say you need rims as well as tires. 16.5 sounds like it has the wrong rims, if that is truly what they are. I am surprised you got 16" tires on them if they are 16.5 rims, good way to have an accident.

 

[TapRackFire]

The 530CK parts book shows rim Case part # A38404 for a 7.50 x 16 tire $ rib may be a bit better on a loader tractor than the tri-rib ones. I would say you need rims as well as tires. 16.5 sounds like it has the wrong rims, if that is truly what they are. I am surprised you got 16" tires on them if they are 16.5 rims, good way to have an accident

 

[TapRackFire]

I agree with you Jim. Currently looking for new tires all the way around. The rear tires are 14.9x24. These aren't cheap. Local shop priced two of them for me. $950.00 mounted with tubes.

 

[NDIHC]

16.5 wheels are easy to distinguish from a 16" wheel. 16.5 has a 15 degree bead angle where a 16 has a 5 degree angle. The 16 inch bead area will appear almost flat and a 16.5 will have a noticable angle. Very dangerous to mount a 16 inch tire on a 16.5 rim. And yes, I've seen a few over the years.

 

[TapRackFire]

16.5 wheels are easy to distinguish from a 16" wheel. 16.5 has a 15 degree bead angle where a 16 has a 5 degree angle. The 16 inch bead area will appear almost flat and a 16.5 will have a noticable angle. Very dangerous to mount a 16 inch tire on a 16.5 rim. And yes, I've seen a few over the years.

Thank you. Getting the front tires squared away.

 

[TapRackFire]

Does anyone have advice for installing new seals in the brake housing backing plate? I’ve ruined 2 sets of seals trying to get the backing plate reinstalled.

 

[used red MN]

Are you talking about number 43 in this link? CNHI Case 530CK brake parts diagram
In what way are they being damaged? Use some 320 emery tape to smooth the shaft it will slip over, in particular any sharp edges. Use a film of grease on the shaft for the seal lip to slide on. Does it have a spring in the seal around the lip to give it tension? If so grease it up good so the “shocks” from driving it in will not knock it out of place.

 

[TapRackFire]

Are you talking about number 43 in this link? CNHI Case 530CK brake parts diagram
In what way are they being damaged? Use some 320 emery tape to smooth the shaft it will slip over, in particular any sharp edges. Use a film of grease on the shaft for the seal lip to slide on. Does it have a spring in the seal around the lip to give it tension? If so grease it up good so the “shocks” from driving it in will not knock it out of place.

I think we’re talking about the same part, it I see it as #42 in your diagram. It’s the oil seal that you have to press into the backing plate.
I did emery cloth the shaft and oiled every surface before I tried to install the backing plate and I still managed to ruin the seal surface. It held oil for a day or two but then it started leaking pretty good.

I bought new seals and followed instructions from another site. They said to clean it with the emory cloth and clean that shaft with brake cleaner to remove any oil. Then wrap the shaft with electrical tape from the inside out. This is important so you don’t have edges fight the seal as you push the backing plate on. Followed this and the backing plate slide on like butter! Without the electrical tape I had to get pretty rough to get the backing plate on that shaft.

Still have to do the other side. Seals were kinda hard to find at a reasonable price. Called Oriley’s and the were able to find me the seal I needed that was an exact match for $15.00. Everyone else was a close match but not the same as original.

 

[used red MN]

I think we’re talking about the same part, it I see it as #42 in your diagram. It’s the oil seal that you have to press into the backing plate.
I did emery cloth the shaft and oiled every surface before I tried to install the backing plate and I still managed to ruin the seal surface. It held oil for a day or two but then it started leaking pretty good.

I bought new seals and followed instructions from another site. They said to clean it with the emory cloth and clean that shaft with brake cleaner to remove any oil. Then wrap the shaft with electrical tape from the inside out. This is important so you don’t have edges fight the seal as you push the backing plate on. Followed this and the backing plate slide on like butter! Without the electrical tape I had to get pretty rough to get the backing plate on that shaft.

Still have to do the other side. Seals were kinda hard to find at a reasonable price. Called Oriley’s and the were able to find me the seal I needed that was an exact match for $15.00. Everyone else was a close match but not the same as original.

Yes, sorry 42 old eyes that should have been closed and sleeping. I have never had to resort to electrical tape, but I have never did this particular job. Hope it works on the other side as well.

 

[TapRackFire]

My project continues. I was trying to recall how the oil bath breather bracket attached. I attached it to the lower band on the air cleaner and the other end to the bolt sticking out of the valve cover nearest the radiator. This works but the breather assembly seems to tilt forward a little. Its not standing straight up and down like I've seen in other photos. Wondering if i have it attached in the wrong place on the engine?

 

[used red MN]

My project continues. I was trying to recall how the oil bath breather bracket attached. I attached it to the lower band on the air cleaner and the other end to the bolt sticking out of the valve cover nearest the radiator. This works but the breather assembly seems to tilt forward a little. Its not standing straight up and down like I've seen in other photos. Wondering if i have it attached in the wrong place on the engine?

Does this help? Are you missing number 13?
CNHI Case 530CK parts diagram
You can see all the parts sections for your tractor from that link. Just click the wording Stock-Case Construction… to the right of the “Home” icon.

 

[TapRackFire]

Does this help? Are you missing number 13?
CNHI Case 530CK parts diagram
You can see all the parts sections for your tractor from that link. Just click the wording Stock-Case Construction… to the right of the “Home” icon.

Thanks for the comment Red. You are correct about the part number. I do have it and I've installed it from the band around the cleaner back to the front valve cover bolt. My question is do I have the brace connected to the right place on the motor. I ask because after I got it all connected the entire breather assembly is leaning forward a little too much for my liking.