This is a continuation of a thread I started back in 05/2008 I think. Yes it has taken me this long to get to it. Not high on the priority list as I have a push mower.
This should take you straight to the previous info. http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=gardent&th=85260
I changed the PTO and clutch switch (parts 7 & 10 from the parts manual). The parts come from Briggs/Stratton. They apparently sent me the wrong seat switch though. The nut is welded to the seat plate so it will take only one type of thread and the thread is different between the new and old. Suppose I could cut the nut off and use any appropriately sized nut?
Results were no different with the PTO and clutch switch changed. I also put the battery on a charger just to be sure. Still dies when you engage the blades. I will clarify a little too. I can move with the blades engaged for a short while like 20 yards or less and then it dies. This leaves seat switch, ignition switch, wiring and/or carbs.
This does make me wonder about the battery. What if the battery is not rated for the type of mower? Could it have enough juice for it to start but not enough to keep it going?
The one that is in there now is Everstart part # U1, says cc at 32 degress is 175 and cca is 140.
From the sears parts site it gave me a battery part # 27195. I went back to the main sears site and it came up with a U1 Die Hard battery which is 340cca. Even though it references the same part #, the difference is the part list says it is a U1-L5 battery and the Die Hard is a U1R battery. Not sure if any of that makes a differece or not.
I just looked at the manual and I did find this: "Note: If the engine stops when you engage the blade(s), the seat switch is not activated, Make sure you sit in the middle of the seat. Also, make sure the wire is connected to the seat switch." My only thought on this is if the seat switch wasn"t activated, then I wouldn"t be able to start it at all, which I can.
Thought on the carbs too, if the mower starts and can go anywhere on the mower without it dying when the blades are not engaged, why would it be a carb issue when I engage the blades?
Lsst thing I can think of right now is I can"t seem to start it in the choke position. Seems to only start in the fast position.
Again thanks for any help/thoughts/suggestions.
Jerry
This should take you straight to the previous info. http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=gardent&th=85260
I changed the PTO and clutch switch (parts 7 & 10 from the parts manual). The parts come from Briggs/Stratton. They apparently sent me the wrong seat switch though. The nut is welded to the seat plate so it will take only one type of thread and the thread is different between the new and old. Suppose I could cut the nut off and use any appropriately sized nut?
Results were no different with the PTO and clutch switch changed. I also put the battery on a charger just to be sure. Still dies when you engage the blades. I will clarify a little too. I can move with the blades engaged for a short while like 20 yards or less and then it dies. This leaves seat switch, ignition switch, wiring and/or carbs.
This does make me wonder about the battery. What if the battery is not rated for the type of mower? Could it have enough juice for it to start but not enough to keep it going?
The one that is in there now is Everstart part # U1, says cc at 32 degress is 175 and cca is 140.
From the sears parts site it gave me a battery part # 27195. I went back to the main sears site and it came up with a U1 Die Hard battery which is 340cca. Even though it references the same part #, the difference is the part list says it is a U1-L5 battery and the Die Hard is a U1R battery. Not sure if any of that makes a differece or not.
I just looked at the manual and I did find this: "Note: If the engine stops when you engage the blade(s), the seat switch is not activated, Make sure you sit in the middle of the seat. Also, make sure the wire is connected to the seat switch." My only thought on this is if the seat switch wasn"t activated, then I wouldn"t be able to start it at all, which I can.
Thought on the carbs too, if the mower starts and can go anywhere on the mower without it dying when the blades are not engaged, why would it be a carb issue when I engage the blades?
Lsst thing I can think of right now is I can"t seem to start it in the choke position. Seems to only start in the fast position.
Again thanks for any help/thoughts/suggestions.
Jerry