Farmall 656 Turbo

[IAtractorKid]

Hey guys! First off, let me say this tractor is just a toy and will see no work! It's just my pavement queen.

Anyway, I've been piecing together a turbo "kit" and currently have everything made and on the tractor. Now, the turbo I currently have is an IH Reman #749267C92 which comes up as being off a 1066 or bigger. TO4B18 or TO4B25. I KNOW, it's huge for a D282! It was given to me though so I'm using it for now...

It actually sounds really good, lots of whistle which is what I wanted! Driveability down the road so far is pretty good, as long as I keep the RPM's up. However, it never registers any boost on my DIY gauge. Which is what leads me to my question at this time...

Is my temporary DIY gauge no good, or not going to work how I have it hooked up? Is this turbo too much oversized that it might sound good, but really won't do anything for me? Or lastly, am I going to have to put a good load on it to see any kind of boost?

Lastly, I've been told it may help to get a smaller sized exhaust housing...currently has a 115 and going down to around an 86 was suggested. Thoughts? Anyone know where I may be able to find one?

Other option is a different turbo (which I am not apposed to). A turbo off an Allis 190XT has been suggested. Looks like that had a 301 cubic inch engine so would probably work pretty well. Looks to be a TO4B80.

 

[Janicholson]

A turbo is sensittve to exhaust volume. Much of the air taken in at idle is heated during compression, then chilled when released into the exhaust when the engine is at idle, or high idle. When loaded to middle level output, the exhaust is far hotter, and has expanded dramatically as it consumes more of the oxygen in the intake air. I would not expect pressure to build until under load. I would also expect a waste gate to limit the boost to maybe 5 psi. That might be conservative, but it is in the interest of your intended use. The engine series has many internal modifications when turboed from the factory. Jim

 

[randy hall]

too big of a charger equals no boost, a guy brought his warm 4020 puller to use my dyno and he had put a turbo for a 4060 on it. it made two pounds of manifold pressure and 102 horsepower.

 

[IAtractorKid]

That's kind of what I was thinking...

This is a hydro so it would be sweet to get it on a Dyno. Any chance your near Central IA?

 

[DR. EVIL]

Wow! A 1066 had a 414 CID engine, round numbers, 47% larger than that 282 in the 656. You really need a smaller turbo. The 190 XT Allis turbo will be much closer. If all you want is whistle keep
What you have. The location of the hose and fitting for your psi gauge is O-K, I would have put it about 2 to 2-1/2 inches farther away from the engine, in that flat round section of the bottom of the manifold. The whole manifold sees pressure so putting the fitting in a runner works.

Hypro pressure gauge, I used to work for a different division of the same corporation that owns Hypro. You need a much lower psi gauge, say 10-15 psi tops. As large as that turbo is you will only see boost at wide open. Think 656's ran 1800 rpm, but in other equipment ran up to 2400 rpm, International 660.
Running that fast might produce a pound or two of boost on the gauge.

 

[IAtractorKid]

Yep it's big!

I just used that location for the temporary gauge as it was already in the manifold. Yeah it was just a cheap gauge I actually found in the sprayer section of the farm store...I knew I'd never be over 30psi at most. Will have to see if I can find something smaller.

 

[Dieseltech]

As others have said, turbo is much too large. My 560D I tractor drive with I removed the AC 301 turbo I had on it and put on a smaller one with a waste gate. Gate is set for 9-10 PSI, and turbo now will start showing boost at 1100 engine RPM. Your gage is much too large also, 0 to 15 PSI is what you need if you want to see the needle move.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Turbo is to big for much boost on that little engine. The Boos would show up more under load. I don't think you have enough intake for the air flow you need.
Didn't they turbo the combine engines in later years so might find one off a combine to put on there. Also as Jim said lots of different modifications at the factory when adding a turbo.

 

[Mark (EC,IN)]

For what you are doing, that charger with a smaller exhaust hosing would work....and sound real neat in the process.

I see know reason that the boost gauge set up will not work as it is.

That said, heat is what drives a turbo.....just setting in the barn lot and winding the engine wide open will build very little boost with no load.

I'm not sure about a Hydro (how to check), but a regular tractor in road gear...slip the clutch at full RPM and it will build boost......you have to put a load on it and build some heat.

 

[Janicholson]

I would also get an air intake away from the radiator heat. Hot air does way worse than cold into a turbo. Jim

 

[randy hall]

north central ohio

 

[Old-F20]

(quoted from post at 11:42:27 07/23/19)

This is a hydro so it would be sweet to get it on a Dyno. Any chance your near Central IA?

Ive got one right up the road from ya......

 

[IAtractorKid]

Old-F20 where are you located?

 

[Old-F20]

(quoted from post at 17:30:51 07/26/19) Old-F20 where are you located?

Maxwell