Gifted JD 2350 over my head, electrical issues

[danc1948]

Hello, here’s hoping for a great year for all. A close neighbor recently gifted me a JD 2350. The good news is that we strapped a screwdriver across solenoid to starter, and it came to life. Previous owner did not remember the last time he had started the Tractor in the normal manner with key ignition switch and neutral safety switch. we partially filled hydraulic reservoir, which was empty with just enough fluid on hand to make it to my barn, a quarter mile. steering was very jerky, but possibly due to low fluid. The tractor was used for construction at some point in its life. it has seen some use, as it is somewhat beat up, and the sockets for three-point hitch will fall out if taken off, It has a reverse transmission., the hour meter reads 3800+. I know next to nothing about automotive or Tractor electrical systems or how to read diagrams although I do have a couple of other tractors just lucky I guess have never needed work on them. The keyed ignition switch would not turn so I ordered another and switched over each lead to identical terminal on the new ignition switch.. the battery icon comes on as does the parking brake icon and although the oil sending unit is rotted off if I rub the wire on it just right, I can get the oil/ air/sensor icons to come up as well. a probe will light up if the ignition key is on by touching terminal posts accessories ,batteries, ignition ,starter. The ground terminal on the starter switch has a pair of wires piggyback to each other on the keyed, ignition switch, one goes to the neutral starter switch. The other goes into a harness. no power seems to be present at the neutral starter switch to that end I’ve ordered another, while not certain power should go there. It did not seem unreasonable to believe that it was corroded and no longer functioning like the key ignition switch It should be here next week. A friend, more handy than I with a multimeter came over to have a look, at some point his probe touched the ignition terminal at the same time touching the ground terminal we heard a clicking noise in the console area. we did not get much further than that. He did suggest that I could possibly put in a new switch and bypass all the electronics and start that way. The next day I try repeating the clicking noise, and now I have a steady warning beep from the console when I turn on the key like something has shorted out.. I am suspicious that somebody changed the ignition wiring around on the key ignition switch as I don’t understand why there would be two wire off the ground terminal post of the key ignition switch, one of which goes to the neutral starting switch and no wire attached to the start post…. I do not have at this point very much money invested in this tractor. There is a local John Deere dealership and I can get someone to come out to the house and check it out for roughly $300… before I do that I’m just wondering if anybody has any comments that might help me figure it out myself.. I don’t know if I presented enough information for anyone to help but any comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Danc

 

[used red MN]

For one this Restoration and Repair Tips forum does not have the highest number of views. I am not sure if I can even see that on this new forum format, but that is a different kettle of fish. You should have learned from your experience with your IH tractor that posting under the brand of a tractor is best. So I would recommend moving this to the JD forum. When you say “I know next to nothing about automotive or Tractor electrical systems or how to read diagrams” the incline encountered to solve this problem becomes very steep! Hopefully your friend will be able to help you. How have you determined that the wire you say is piggy backed and one lead goes to the neutral switch is a ground? Usually in more simplistic wiring layouts the key energizes a wire in the start position and that power goes to the neutral safety switch. Then if the shifter is in neutral power continues on to the starter solenoid or through a clutch safety switch. Or in a more complex system they may use ground circuits from the neutral switch to a relay that then closes the circuit from the key switch to the solenoid and allows it to start. Without a diagram, I cannot give you any definite answer on what to look for. YT offers a I & T manual for your tractor but I cannot tell you if it includes a wiring diagram. I & T from YT You can also get an owners manual by going to the JD publications site. JD pubs Let me know if you need more info. Check out you “Private Messages” above using the mail or letter icon.
Also important “does the tractor have a cab or not”??

 

[Jim.ME]

Hello, here’s hoping for a great year for all. A close neighbor recently gifted me a JD 2350. The good news is that we strapped a screwdriver across solenoid to starter, and it came to life. Previous owner did not remember the last time he had started the Tractor in the normal manner with key ignition switch and neutral safety switch. we partially filled hydraulic reservoir, which was empty with just enough fluid on hand to make it to my barn, a quarter mile. steering was very jerky, but possibly due to low fluid. The tractor was used for construction at some point in its life. it has seen some use, as it is somewhat beat up, and the sockets for three-point hitch will fall out if taken off, It has a reverse transmission., the hour meter reads 3800+. I know next to nothing about automotive or Tractor electrical systems or how to read diagrams although I do have a couple of other tractors just lucky I guess have never needed work on them. The keyed ignition switch would not turn so I ordered another and switched over each lead to identical terminal on the new ignition switch.. the battery icon comes on as does the parking brake icon and although the oil sending unit is rotted off if I rub the wire on it just right, I can get the oil/ air/sensor icons to come up as well. a probe will light up if the ignition key is on by touching terminal posts accessories ,batteries, ignition ,starter. The ground terminal on the starter switch has a pair of wires piggyback to each other on the keyed, ignition switch, one goes to the neutral starter switch. The other goes into a harness. no power seems to be present at the neutral starter switch to that end I’ve ordered another, while not certain power should go there. It did not seem unreasonable to believe that it was corroded and no longer functioning like the key ignition switch It should be here next week. A friend, more handy than I with a multimeter came over to have a look, at some point his probe touched the ignition terminal at the same time touching the ground terminal we heard a clicking noise in the console area. we did not get much further than that. He did suggest that I could possibly put in a new switch and bypass all the electronics and start that way. The next day I try repeating the clicking noise, and now I have a steady warning beep from the console when I turn on the key like something has shorted out.. I am suspicious that somebody changed the ignition wiring around on the key ignition switch as I don’t understand why there would be two wire off the ground terminal post of the key ignition switch, one of which goes to the neutral starting switch and no wire attached to the start post…. I do not have at this point very much money invested in this tractor. There is a local John Deere dealership and I can get someone to come out to the house and check it out for roughly $300… before I do that I’m just wondering if anybody has any comments that might help me figure it out myself.. I don’t know if I presented enough information for anyone to help but any comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Danc

You are going to need the correct wiring diagrams and diagnostic information. The first thing you can do to help you figure it out, is to purchase the actual John Deere Operator's and Technical (service) Manuals for it. The Operator's Manual is John Deere publication number OML55481, and the Technical Manual is John Deere publication number TM4403 (covers the 2350 and 2550). I would recommend you find used original John Deere manuals on eBay, or purchase them direct from JD. They are not inexpensive, so don't be shocked. The wiring diagrams can be hard enough to follow if they are clear, but near to impossible in poor quality reprints. This site appears to only have the I&T service manual for a 2350/2550, 160 pages compared to over 1000 in the JD manual. Here is a link to the John Deere Bookstore.

John Deere Ag and Turf Bookstore

Click on the Equipment Publications tab. When that page opens enter 2350 in the box beside Model # and click search. You should get a dropdown list of equipment with 2350 in the model #. When I do that is see the North American 2350 tractor as the fourth choice down in the list, click on 2350 Tractors - Base Units - North America . When it opens the list of 2350 manuals available, you should see Operator's Manual (OML55481) and to the right of it there are icons for View online and the down arrow icon for download. Click on the icon for download and you can download and save a free copy of the Operator's Manual. If you want a book or CD the prices for those are shown below that, they are not free. That tractor has the option of viewing the Operator's manual online if you don't want to download a copy. The Technical Manual (TM4403) is shown below the Parts Catalog (PC4187). Note you can only purchase the Parts Catalog at the bookstore. Clicking on the Technical Manual will give you the purchase options they offer.

You can use the online Parts Catalog (PC4187) at this link.

John Deere PC4187

You can either type 2350 or PC4187 in the search box to find the Parts Catalog and use it online. Read carefully. Have your serial number available as there may be some serial number breaks and that catalog also covers the 2550 tractors.

I am recommending you get the Technical Manual as the electrical system is much more intensive than an older tractor. It may be just the way you described things, and I don't have a manual to look at but usually the neutral start switch does not have any power, unless the ignition switch is turned to start. I don't understand having a pair of ground wires on the starter switch. May be there are ground wires there, but it doesn't sound right to me; that is why I recommend the OEM manuals.

 

[danc1948]

Thank you sir for your response. This has been a real learning experience for me a lot like peelping layers of an onion off to get to the next layer. I have a technical manual that I purchased, I inquired at my John Deere dealership in town about purchasing the John Deere manual, and they said they didn’t have one which I didn’t understand so I bought the technical manual from repub manuals, com The previous owner gave me his parts catalog and operators manual. so I have wiring diagrams galore, but I’m a real rube at understanding them. Time is not of the essence here, so I will continue to plug along. Another friend is going to help me find where all these wires go to. Meanwhile, the buzzing noise from the console was not present this morning I assume a relay or a circuit breaker reset Itself. I need to remove the hood and fix leaks on the load control, shaft, I wonder if it would be beneficial to post a picture of the neutral safety switch and key ignition switch … thanks again for your comments.

 

[used red MN]

Actually photos of the wiring diagrams would be the most help. And the right ones for your tractor, with a cab or open station (no cab). The parts catalog is available on line through the Deere website. That is how I know the layouts are different between the two.

 

[Jim.ME]

Thank you sir for your response. This has been a real learning experience for me a lot like peelping layers of an onion off to get to the next layer. I have a technical manual that I purchased, I inquired at my John Deere dealership in town about purchasing the John Deere manual, and they said they didn’t have one which I didn’t understand so I bought the technical manual from repub manuals, com The previous owner gave me his parts catalog and operators manual. so I have wiring diagrams galore, but I’m a real rube at understanding them. Time is not of the essence here, so I will continue to plug along. Another friend is going to help me find where all these wires go to. Meanwhile, the buzzing noise from the console was not present this morning I assume a relay or a circuit breaker reset Itself. I need to remove the hood and fix leaks on the load control, shaft, I wonder if it would be beneficial to post a picture of the neutral safety switch and key ignition switch … thanks again for your comments.

I would not expect a dealer to have the manuals on the shelf, so that is no surprise. However, they could have offered to order one for you. Is the manual you bought a copy of the JD publication number I gave you?

Pictures of the actual switches, those pictures can easily be found online, won't be much help without the proper wiring diagrams. The actual wiring diagrams, for your tractor, would be the most helpful. If you decide to post any diagrams, be sure you post the right ones, many of these newer tractors may have different diagrams for open station, cab types, etc.

 

[danc1948]

Hello and thanks for the help. The cover sheet of the new manual I got shows John Deere so I assume it’s the right one. I get a bit confused about the different start switches but as I understand it number 18 is the spring loaded neutral starting switch as I have described having one wire going to the ground terminal on the keyed starting switch number 11, don’t know where the other wire goes to, as it goes into a bundle. Number 18 does show two wires off of one terminal wire #57 and 39 respectively. it looks to me as though number 57 ends up at switch number 10 and then to number 39, wire number 39 ending up at switch number 15. this is not too bad for me to follow but the wires off switch #11 are a different matter at this point in my budding electrical DIY class. I talked to a tractor mechanic in town earlier today who has worked on the Tractor before he said he thought the tractor was pretty good and mentioned that I should put a jumper across the PTO wires to see if that would help. a work in progress. Just inserted three photos. I hope they look better on your end than here at mine. if not legible, I will try something else.

 

[Jim.ME]

Hello and thanks for the help. The cover sheet of the new manual I got shows John Deere so I assume it’s the right one. I get a bit confused about the different start switches but as I understand it number 18 is the spring loaded neutral starting switch as I have described having one wire going to the ground terminal on the keyed starting switch number 11, don’t know where the other wire goes to, as it goes into a bundle. Number 18 does show two wires off of one terminal wire #57 and 39 respectively. it looks to me as though number 57 ends up at switch number 10 and then to number 39, wire number 39 ending up at switch number 15. this is not too bad for me to follow but the wires off switch #11 are a different matter at this point in my budding electrical DIY class. I talked to a tractor mechanic in town earlier today who has worked on the Tractor before he said he thought the tractor was pretty good and mentioned that I should put a jumper across the PTO wires to see if that would help. a work in progress. Just inserted three photos. I hope they look better on your end than here at mine. if not legible, I will try something else.

TM4403 is the correct manual.

Make sure all the harness connector contacts are clean and fully plugged together.

It would help to have the next page or two after the page (your third picture) with the item key numbers at the top. The list at the bottom tells the two ends of each wire. I expect it is at least one maybe two pages more of that list.

The start and neutral switches are controlling power supply to the starter, not ground.

Does your tractor have a Thermostart? # 18 appears to be the switch to operate the thermostart, not a neutral start switch.

What PTO does it have? Continuous running or independent?

 

[used red MN]

Hello and thanks for the help. The cover sheet of the new manual I got shows John Deere so I assume it’s the right one. I get a bit confused about the different start switches but as I understand it number 18 is the spring loaded neutral starting switch as I have described having one wire going to the ground terminal on the keyed starting switch number 11, don’t know where the other wire goes to, as it goes into a bundle. Number 18 does show two wires off of one terminal wire #57 and 39 respectively. it looks to me as though number 57 ends up at switch number 10 and then to number 39, wire number 39 ending up at switch number 15. this is not too bad for me to follow but the wires off switch #11 are a different matter at this point in my budding electrical DIY class. I talked to a tractor mechanic in town earlier today who has worked on the Tractor before he said he thought the tractor was pretty good and mentioned that I should put a jumper across the PTO wires to see if that would help. a work in progress. Just inserted three photos. I hope they look better on your end than here at mine. if not legible, I will try something else.

Okay, that is good! Most of my viewing here is done on a phone but I will have to get on a computer so I can have multiple pictures open at the same time. I questioned this from the start, you said there were 2 piggy backed wires on a ground terminal on the ignition switch. Just by my initial quick look at the wiring diagram I see no connections shown to ground there if the “G” terminal is in fact the ground terminal on the switch. Any other info about that?

 

[used red MN]

Okay, that is good! Most of my viewing here is done on a phone but I will have to get on a computer so I can have multiple pictures open at the same time. I questioned this from the start, you said there were 2 piggy backed wires on a ground terminal on the ignition switch. Just by my initial quick look at the wiring diagram I see no connections shown to ground there if the “G” terminal is in fact the ground terminal on the switch. Any other info about that?

Did not get to this tonight. Hopefully I can go through it tomorrow evening!

 

[danc1948]

Hello, sorry about delay had things to do. here.are the other three pages of wiring descriptions. i’ve had this Tractor approximately two months and I have far more questions than I have knowledge at this point, so I’m not sure if it has a thermostat I assume it does but I don’t know for sure and thanks for pointing out where line 18 went to . same with the PTO. I’m not sure which one the Tractor has from what I understand I will know when I take out the load control shaft to replace the seals that are leaking. I just got those two seals today as well as a new neutral starting switch. while not overly adept at electrical issues I suspected right away something was wrong with the ignition wiring terminals. before reaching out here I assumed one of the posts on the neutral starting switch would be hot. However, when I got the new key ignition switch, I could get all posts to light up my probe, except for the ground terminal, which makes sense so why there were two piggyback wires coming off the ground terminal one going to the neutral starting switch I have no idea…what I am the most confused about is what wire is supposed to go on the ignition terminal post and where does it come from? what wire if any, is supposed to go to the start terminal as there was no wire on the start terminal of the original keyed switch .the only terminal post I am confident in that’s right is battery..and do any wires go to that same neutral starting switch from the key ignition switch? wondering if there is a wire that goes directly to the solenoid on the starter? this tractor started life painted green, but was later painted industrial of yellow and used in construction. There are lighting wires hanging off all over the place on it. I don’t know if any of those are a problem. I plan on taking the hood off this weekend hoping that some of the wires under there are not painted yellow. a friend is coming next week after what we call a cold front here in central Florida is gone who is very familiar with electrical wiring diagrams maybe we can trace out some wires. thank you for the help learning something every time.

 

[Jim.ME]

Hello, sorry about delay had things to do. here.are the other three pages of wiring descriptions. i’ve had this Tractor approximately two months and I have far more questions than I have knowledge at this point, so I’m not sure if it has a thermostat I assume it does but I don’t know for sure and thanks for pointing out where line 18 went to . same with the PTO. I’m not sure which one the Tractor has from what I understand I will know when I take out the load control shaft to replace the seals that are leaking. I just got those two seals today as well as a new neutral starting switch. while not overly adept at electrical issues I suspected right away something was wrong with the ignition wiring terminals. before reaching out here I assumed one of the posts on the neutral starting switch would be hot. However, when I got the new key ignition switch, I could get all posts to light up my probe, except for the ground terminal, which makes sense so why there were two piggyback wires coming off the ground terminal one going to the neutral starting switch I have no idea…what I am the most confused about is what wire is supposed to go on the ignition terminal post and where does it come from? what wire if any, is supposed to go to the start terminal as there was no wire on the start terminal of the original keyed switch .the only terminal post I am confident in that’s right is battery..and do any wires go to that same neutral starting switch from the key ignition switch? wondering if there is a wire that goes directly to the solenoid on the starter? this tractor started life painted green, but was later painted industrial of yellow and used in construction. There are lighting wires hanging off all over the place on it. I don’t know if any of those are a problem. I plan on taking the hood off this weekend hoping that some of the wires under there are not painted yellow. a friend is coming next week after what we call a cold front here in central Florida is gone who is very familiar with electrical wiring diagrams maybe we can trace out some wires. thank you for the help learning something every time.

I don't see how the load control shaft bushings will tell you which PTO it has. Do you have the Operator's Manual? Reading about the controls for the two PTOs will tell you which you have. I believe there are some wiring differences between the two PTO types. It also tells you what the dash controls do and if certain things have to be off or in a certain position to start. It should tell you about using the thermostart switch, if it has one. If you have the thermostart switch I would expect the tractor has the thermostart unit as well. If you don't have a copy of the Operator's manual, in an earlier post I gave you a link to go to and how to download a free copy.

I will print the latest pictures off and see how those fit things together with the drawing.

 

[Jim.ME]

Hello, sorry about delay had things to do. here.are the other three pages of wiring descriptions. i’ve had this Tractor approximately two months and I have far more questions than I have knowledge at this point, so I’m not sure if it has a thermostat I assume it does but I don’t know for sure and thanks for pointing out where line 18 went to . same with the PTO. I’m not sure which one the Tractor has from what I understand I will know when I take out the load control shaft to replace the seals that are leaking. I just got those two seals today as well as a new neutral starting switch. while not overly adept at electrical issues I suspected right away something was wrong with the ignition wiring terminals. before reaching out here I assumed one of the posts on the neutral starting switch would be hot. However, when I got the new key ignition switch, I could get all posts to light up my probe, except for the ground terminal, which makes sense so why there were two piggyback wires coming off the ground terminal one going to the neutral starting switch I have no idea…what I am the most confused about is what wire is supposed to go on the ignition terminal post and where does it come from? what wire if any, is supposed to go to the start terminal as there was no wire on the start terminal of the original keyed switch .the only terminal post I am confident in that’s right is battery..and do any wires go to that same neutral starting switch from the key ignition switch? wondering if there is a wire that goes directly to the solenoid on the starter? this tractor started life painted green, but was later painted industrial of yellow and used in construction. There are lighting wires hanging off all over the place on it. I don’t know if any of those are a problem. I plan on taking the hood off this weekend hoping that some of the wires under there are not painted yellow. a friend is coming next week after what we call a cold front here in central Florida is gone who is very familiar with electrical wiring diagrams maybe we can trace out some wires. thank you for the help learning something every time.

looks like I landed my reply on one of your earlier posts above.

 

[Jim.ME]

Hello, sorry about delay had things to do. here.are the other three pages of wiring descriptions. i’ve had this Tractor approximately two months and I have far more questions than I have knowledge at this point, so I’m not sure if it has a thermostat I assume it does but I don’t know for sure and thanks for pointing out where line 18 went to . same with the PTO. I’m not sure which one the Tractor has from what I understand I will know when I take out the load control shaft to replace the seals that are leaking. I just got those two seals today as well as a new neutral starting switch. while not overly adept at electrical issues I suspected right away something was wrong with the ignition wiring terminals. before reaching out here I assumed one of the posts on the neutral starting switch would be hot. However, when I got the new key ignition switch, I could get all posts to light up my probe, except for the ground terminal, which makes sense so why there were two piggyback wires coming off the ground terminal one going to the neutral starting switch I have no idea…what I am the most confused about is what wire is supposed to go on the ignition terminal post and where does it come from? what wire if any, is supposed to go to the start terminal as there was no wire on the start terminal of the original keyed switch .the only terminal post I am confident in that’s right is battery..and do any wires go to that same neutral starting switch from the key ignition switch? wondering if there is a wire that goes directly to the solenoid on the starter? this tractor started life painted green, but was later painted industrial of yellow and used in construction. There are lighting wires hanging off all over the place on it. I don’t know if any of those are a problem. I plan on taking the hood off this weekend hoping that some of the wires under there are not painted yellow. a friend is coming next week after what we call a cold front here in central Florida is gone who is very familiar with electrical wiring diagrams maybe we can trace out some wires. thank you for the help learning something every time.

The first thing is your tractor should not have any wires on the "G" terminal. In checking the switch out, that is a ground terminal used in relation to the instrument clusters on some tractors, apparently not on yours.

From looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like that the piggy back wires, you say are on the G terminal, belong on the IGN terminal. One wire goes to the #10 neutral switch and the second wire goes to #23 the Hand brake acoustical warning signal. Here is where the type of PTO comes into play, it appears it uses two neutral start switches if it has the continuous PTO. It is possible this one change might let it start, if the other wiring is not screwed up.

A post on the neutral start switch should only have power when the key is turned to the start position.

If there is a knob you can pull up located between the shift levers you have independent PTO. If it is a small lever on the side of the transmission near your left heel and moves front to rear, you have a continuous (two Stage clutch) PTO.

This is not going to be an easy tell you what to do. You need to get familiar with the drawing and the names of things on it, then locate them on the tractor to chase wires. Many of the wires are the same colors and sizes so you will need to confirm voltages at the different locations and/or unhook ends and check wires for continuity.

 

[used red MN]

The first thing is your tractor should not have any wires on the "G" terminal. In checking the switch out, that is a ground terminal used in relation to the instrument clusters on some tractors, apparently not on yours.

From looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like that the piggy back wires, you say are on the G terminal, belong on the IGN terminal. One wire goes to the #10 neutral switch and the second wire goes to #23 the Hand brake acoustical warning signal. Here is where the type of PTO comes into play, it appears it uses two neutral start switches if it has the continuous PTO. It is possible this one change might let it start, if the other wiring is not screwed up.

A post on the neutral start switch should only have power when the key is turned to the start position.

If there is a knob you can pull up located between the shift levers you have independent PTO. If it is a small lever on the side of the transmission near your left heel and moves front to rear, you have a continuous (two Stage clutch) PTO.

This is not going to be an easy tell you what to do. You need to get familiar with the drawing and the names of things on it, then locate them on the tractor to chase wires. Many of the wires are the same colors and sizes so you will need to confirm voltages at the different locations and/or unhook ends and check wires for continuity.

I did not look at this again tonight but I see Jim has given you some enlightenment. I agree this is going to be difficult if you cannot convey what the wiring diagram is telling you and then naming parts correctly. Although it looks like you did a fair job by the items you highlighted. Did not look to see if relays are involved, I would almost guess they are in the lighting system. Adding those in the mix complicates things. The beeper or tone maker may be an actual correct response the tractor will have with the key on and the engine stopped. However, since you say the oil pressure wire is not connected this may mean something else. My point is a tone with the key on doesn’t necessarily mean a problem, it is a similar equivalent to a door open chime on a car, but it is signifying no oil pressure maybe even no charge from the alternator may kick it on as well. Getting more help from your friend who you say has some knowledge of vehicle circuits would indeed be helpful.

 

[Jim.ME]

I did not look at this again tonight but I see Jim has given you some enlightenment. I agree this is going to be difficult if you cannot convey what the wiring diagram is telling you and then naming parts correctly. Although it looks like you did a fair job by the items you highlighted. Did not look to see if relays are involved, I would almost guess they are in the lighting system. Adding those in the mix complicates things. The beeper or tone maker may be an actual correct response the tractor will have with the key on and the engine stopped. However, since you say the oil pressure wire is not connected this may mean something else. My point is a tone with the key on doesn’t necessarily mean a problem, it is a similar equivalent to a door open chime on a car, but it is signifying no oil pressure maybe even no charge from the alternator may kick it on as well. Getting more help from your friend who you say has some knowledge of vehicle circuits would indeed be helpful.

I don't have the TM4403 to look at, however if it is similar to the manual for a 4230 there are pages of drawings showing how to test the different systems and the components. Highlighting things on a drawing is one thing, without seeing where and how some of the shown components are actually mounted and actuated on his 2350, this is where danc1948 is going to have to be very descriptive in details he provides and perhaps posting many pictures, he is the eyes and hands of this project. I suggested he study the Operator's Manual as, if the starting system is complete, it may require things like the hand brake to be set, transmission in neutral, PTO out of gear, etc. All those things will need to be properly set and the switches, relays, connectors, etc. related to them will need to be checked, on the tractor, to see if the starting system is operating correctly. Yes, I know the system can be wired to short cut some of those things, but wiring correct to the drawing is best and the direction as I see it at present.

 

[danc1948]

Thank you both for very helpful information. Maybe in the hop skip and jump read about all the various factors of the Tractor I missed the PTO information, a schematic view of the load control shaft in the parts catalog, where hydraulic fluid is leaking from showed me that there was a difference in bushings and seals between the two. so I deduced that I would not know until I knocked the shaft out.The tractor has continuous PTO. Thank you! so if I move the two piggyback wires to the ignition terminal, might get lucky and fix the problem., the ignition terminal has two posts . there is a red and black wire on one of them either 12 gauge or 14 gauge it goes into a wiring harness I don’t know if it’s supposed to be on there or not have not gotten that far, taking the liberty to post a picture of neutral starting switch and ignition, you may possibly see something that I don’t know about. Understand your point about the tone as it no longer did that the next day when I turned on the ignition, I assumed it might’ve been a circuit breaker, resetting itself… not a costly item, I will order a new oil sending unit, had not thought it would make a difference to the system in as much as the lights will show up on the console when I rub the existing wire on the rotted end of the sensor.. before posting I read a lot of other posts, and read that on some tractors, there is a fusible link, but on the reading that I have done so far, I have seen nothing that indicates it is equipped with that. Will check operators manual for information about thermostat. I don’t recall seeing anything about it however, I will say when I turn key switch on I see the thermostat indicator jump but not sure what that means was just happy to see that there was current going into the console.. I knew this was not likely to be an easy fix from the start, but I think the tractor will be a decent tractor if I can get it going.. thank you so much

 

[Jim.ME]

Thank you both for very helpful information. Maybe in the hop skip and jump read about all the various factors of the Tractor I missed the PTO information, a schematic view of the load control shaft in the parts catalog, where hydraulic fluid is leaking from showed me that there was a difference in bushings and seals between the two. so I deduced that I would not know until I knocked the shaft out.The tractor has continuous PTO. Thank you! so if I move the two piggyback wires to the ignition terminal, might get lucky and fix the problem., the ignition terminal has two posts . there is a red and black wire on one of them either 12 gauge or 14 gauge it goes into a wiring harness I don’t know if it’s supposed to be on there or not have not gotten that far, taking the liberty to post a picture of neutral starting switch and ignition, you may possibly see something that I don’t know about. Understand your point about the tone as it no longer did that the next day when I turned on the ignition, I assumed it might’ve been a circuit breaker, resetting itself… not a costly item, I will order a new oil sending unit, had not thought it would make a difference to the system in as much as the lights will show up on the console when I rub the existing wire on the rotted end of the sensor.. before posting I read a lot of other posts, and read that on some tractors, there is a fusible link, but on the reading that I have done so far, I have seen nothing that indicates it is equipped with that. Will check operators manual for information about thermostat. I don’t recall seeing anything about it however, I will say when I turn key switch on I see the thermostat indicator jump but not sure what that means was just happy to see that there was current going into the console.. I knew this was not likely to be an easy fix from the start, but I think the tractor will be a decent tractor if I can get it going.. thank you so much

The ThermoSTART is a cold weather starting aid, it is not the ThermoSTAT controlling the coolant temperature. Two totally different things.

The neutral start switches (it appears your tractor with the continuous PTO should have two) are mounted in the transmission, not the dash. Based on your latest pictures, I believe you are mistakenly calling the ThermoStart control switch (located in the dash) a neutral switch.

Your wiring diagram shows a circuit breaker, not a fusible link. Be careful reading about other tractors, and trying to apply that info, when you have the right info in your tractor's Technical Manual, Operator's Manual, and the Parts Catalog.

When I look at the load control shaft and components in the online parts catalog, I see there is a serial number break that affects the load shaft and bushing part numbers but that has nothing to do with the PTO type.

Move the wires from the G terminal of the IGN switch to the IGN terminal, as the diagram shows, and try it. ALWAYS BE SURE THE TRACTOR IS IN NEUTRAL DURING TESTING (unless a specific test requires it to be in gear).

I understand this is new to you and I am not trying to be harsh, just trying to give the facts. It is going to be hard to help you through things until you get a better handle on the names of the controls of your tractor and their locations. Please take your Operator's manual to the tractor and study the controls. And remember there is always the chance the wire colors in the drawing will not match the colors you see on a switch or device. When colors don't match is where one has to trace them out visually to both ends or by a using a method like testing with a V-O-M as appropriate.

 

[danc1948]

Thanks Jim I view your comments as legitimately good information not harsh at all and I thank you for them. I didn’t think there was a fusible link as I didn’t see anything anywhere in electrical diagrams about that,was just throwing it out there.. my parts catalog showed me two different load control shafts that was why I was uncertain as to what I had. let’s get to the good stuff. We have serious progress I did as you said connected those piggyback wires to the ignition terminal.turned the key and nothing happened, for laughs I turned the spring loaded switch you see in the photo and the starter/solenoid made noise like it was trying to spin the starter! The gentleman that had the tractor had two batteries in it and they were both just about shot so the two times I have seen it started he used one of those charging devices to jump it.. I have only one battery in it a 650 cold cranking amp, but fairly new… i’m thinking of trying to start it with screwdriver across solenoid starter terminal to make sure one way or another that I have enough battery to start it. if it doesn’t spin it well enough, I will assume that maybe the battery is what’s wrong with my starting system and that I need a stronger battery or two… that’s about all I can do for today on it. thank you for getting me this far

 

[Jim.ME]

Thanks Jim I view your comments as legitimately good information not harsh at all and I thank you for them. I didn’t think there was a fusible link as I didn’t see anything anywhere in electrical diagrams about that,was just throwing it out there.. my parts catalog showed me two different load control shafts that was why I was uncertain as to what I had. let’s get to the good stuff. We have serious progress I did as you said connected those piggyback wires to the ignition terminal.turned the key and nothing happened, for laughs I turned the spring loaded switch you see in the photo and the starter/solenoid made noise like it was trying to spin the starter! The gentleman that had the tractor had two batteries in it and they were both just about shot so the two times I have seen it started he used one of those charging devices to jump it.. I have only one battery in it a 650 cold cranking amp, but fairly new… i’m thinking of trying to start it with screwdriver across solenoid starter terminal to make sure one way or another that I have enough battery to start it. if it doesn’t spin it well enough, I will assume that maybe the battery is what’s wrong with my starting system and that I need a stronger battery or two… that’s about all I can do for today on it. thank you for getting me this far

How about a picture of the front side of the two switches as mounted in the dash? If you read section twenty about starting the tractor it might help with understanding how the two switches are supposed to work when starting.

Is there a wire going to a terminal in your intake manifold? How about a small steel tube from a little tank? Again, pictures of them if you can.

I don't know about the 2350/2550, but JD had a bulletin for some tractors about adding a relay, near the starter, into the wire from the switches that power the start terminal of the solenoid as the solenoids were not engaging properly due to low voltage and current. To be clear, when you jump the starter solenoid with a screwdriver are you jumping between the two big posts, or the battery cable post and the small S terminal?