Gifted JD 2350 over my head, electrical issues

Hello all, have had a setback on a Tractor project. All is well Tractor starting every time it was time to put the transmission cover plate back on. I tried to tidy up the wiring to make sure it was not rubbing somewhere, and apparently was a bad choice as now it will not start, although the solenoid is clicking..the item featured in the screenshot I assume is a link but I do not know if it is a fused link.. tried an auto parts store this morning to no avail so thought I would come back here. there are two relays under the console I replaced one, but not the other, because the first replacement fixed the problem, have noticed if I manipulate the spice or the link I hear chattering from the relay I did not replace. Any comments on this issue are appreciated. Thank you.
 
Hello all, have had a setback on a Tractor project. All is well Tractor starting every time it was time to put the transmission cover plate back on. I tried to tidy up the wiring to make sure it was not rubbing somewhere, and apparently was a bad choice as now it will not start, although the solenoid is clicking..the item featured in the screenshot I assume is a link but I do not know if it is a fused link.. tried an auto parts store this morning to no avail so thought I would come back here. there are two relays under the console I replaced one, but not the other, because the first replacement fixed the problem, have noticed if I manipulate the spice or the link I hear chattering from the relay I did not replace. Any comments on this issue are appreciated. Thank you.
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Hello all, have had a setback on a Tractor project. All is well Tractor starting every time it was time to put the transmission cover plate back on. I tried to tidy up the wiring to make sure it was not rubbing somewhere, and apparently was a bad choice as now it will not start, although the solenoid is clicking..the item featured in the screenshot I assume is a link but I do not know if it is a fused link.. tried an auto parts store this morning to no avail so thought I would come back here. there are two relays under the console I replaced one, but not the other, because the first replacement fixed the problem, have noticed if I manipulate the spice or the link I hear chattering from the relay I did not replace. Any comments on this issue are appreciated. Thank you.
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If wiggling a splice or connection causes clicking that connection might be bad. If it is the cover plate that would be over the neutral start switch and or wiring on the transmission you might have loosened a connection to the Neutral switch or there is a bad wire in that run.
 
No screen shot visible.

If wiggling a splice or connection causes clicking that connection might be bad. If it is the cover plate that would be over the neutral start switch and or wiring on the transmission you might have loosened a connection to the Neutral switch or there is a bad wire in that run.
If it started before you were putting the cover on suspect it or wiring it touches.
 
Hi, yes it had started couple of dozen times after replacing a relay so I thought I had it made and started scrunching up the wires a bit to put them in a niche out-of-the-way. It hasn’t started since until this afternoon I jumped it starter solenoid way ran it for a while, turned it off played with wires a bit and wouldn’t you know it it started….! I would like to put a new splice and jumper if that’s the right term but judging from the photo, can you tell if it’s a fusible link or what exactly I’m looking at so I can replicate it?
thanks guys
 

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Hi, yes it had started couple of dozen times after replacing a relay so I thought I had it made and started scrunching up the wires a bit to put them in a niche out-of-the-way. It hasn’t started since until this afternoon I jumped it starter solenoid way ran it for a while, turned it off played with wires a bit and wouldn’t you know it it started….! I would like to put a new splice and jumper if that’s the right term but judging from the photo, can you tell if it’s a fusible link or what exactly I’m looking at so I can replicate it?
thanks guys
The jumper is not a fusible link. That black connect appears to be one that JD used which slipped directly on to two button terminals of a neutral start switch. I have no idea what the wire connected into that harness is for. It should not be there and those blue Scotchlok connectors are known for leading to corrosion in the wires as well as sometimes severing the wire their metal clips are forced into causing bad connections.
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I put a white cardboard construction paper in front of it so the wiring it would stand out better… the wire you referred to wanting to know where it goes is one of two wires coming from PTO safety switch, the wire closest to the camera that goes over the top of the magnifying glass is going to the parking brake sensor. One of the PTO safety switch wires goes to a relay. The other goes into a harness, which I have not taken apart to find out where it goes as it was working well till I scrunch the wires ..I was prone to leave well enough alone, as I’m already in over my head. The previous owner could tell me little or nothing about who done what to the tractor so I don’t know how old that jumper is or anything about it or why it was done in the first place but I have to assume somebody did it for a reason as it looks like a professional device.. as it was working very well before I possibly damaged connections to old wiring my best bet may be I should simply duplicate what’s there with new… I know it’s hard to give advice when you don’t know whats under the proverbial hood. if you have any suggestions, I’m all for listening. Thanks I appreciate your help.
 
I put a white cardboard construction paper in front of it so the wiring it would stand out better… the wire you referred to wanting to know where it goes is one of two wires coming from PTO safety switch, the wire closest to the camera that goes over the top of the magnifying glass is going to the parking brake sensor. One of the PTO safety switch wires goes to a relay. The other goes into a harness, which I have not taken apart to find out where it goes as it was working well till I scrunch the wires ..I was prone to leave well enough alone, as I’m already in over my head. The previous owner could tell me little or nothing about who done what to the tractor so I don’t know how old that jumper is or anything about it or why it was done in the first place but I have to assume somebody did it for a reason as it looks like a professional device.. as it was working very well before I possibly damaged connections to old wiring my best bet may be I should simply duplicate what’s there with new… I know it’s hard to give advice when you don’t know whats under the proverbial hood. if you have any suggestions, I’m all for listening. Thanks I appreciate your help.
 
Best I can suggest at present is to see if you can find the broken wire or bad connection. That blue connector and at least some of that wiring is not factory. I don't see any visible link there, so that isn't a concern. If it quit starting when you were moving those wire, checking them is the place to start.
 
Well, I hate to say that I finally got it because I don’t know that I have but everything seems to be working at the moment ! I really have no idea how I’ve managed to get the electrical portion of it fixed (thanks to Jim and others) if indeed, it truly is for the long-haul. every time I think the problem is over here ,later on, I find out it’s over there!!, It’s almost like there is a dam, some form of resistance, and once it manages to break through and starts, then after that, everything is good. weird but I’ll take it. I wonder a bit if there were a second battery or if the one I have in the tractor was stronger if it would make a difference..I do have a question if anyone knows , this tractor was a commercial tractor so it had lights all over the place. There are two flashers. I understand from reading (I think) that they only are pertinent to literally lights flashing. Is it safe to remove the wiring with them without fear of damaging something else, there is currently no light switch installed I will later install a light bar and hook up the battery lead to the light switch to power it… there is progress in other areas as well, so not too far away from being able to work it a bit to see what I have…. any thoughts are welcome as always thanks.
 
Well, I hate to say that I finally got it because I don’t know that I have but everything seems to be working at the moment ! I really have no idea how I’ve managed to get the electrical portion of it fixed (thanks to Jim and others) if indeed, it truly is for the long-haul. every time I think the problem is over here ,later on, I find out it’s over there!!, It’s almost like there is a dam, some form of resistance, and once it manages to break through and starts, then after that, everything is good. weird but I’ll take it. I wonder a bit if there were a second battery or if the one I have in the tractor was stronger if it would make a difference..I do have a question if anyone knows , this tractor was a commercial tractor so it had lights all over the place. There are two flashers. I understand from reading (I think) that they only are pertinent to literally lights flashing. Is it safe to remove the wiring with them without fear of damaging something else, there is currently no light switch installed I will later install a light bar and hook up the battery lead to the light switch to power it… there is progress in other areas as well, so not too far away from being able to work it a bit to see what I have…. any thoughts are welcome as always thanks.
There should not be any issue with removing them. Chase any wires connected to be sure you don't have a hidden power wire that gets left with a bare end flopping around to short out. The flashers should have had a power supply terminal. The other terminal either went direct to lights or, since you say it was a commercial tractor, to a signal switch if it had directional lights added.
 
OK as usual thanks for your advice have more or less already done the above almost ready to put that part of the tractor to bed. I’m starting the tractor with a battery that I use on a smaller tractor a IH B 275. I would like to get a bigger battery to help spin it as when it’s cooler say 45° it’s a little slower to crank, it had two batteries in it, but I think one will serve me well..what size cranking amp battery would you recommend if I can ask ? also, I have never tried to use the cold weather starting glow plug… of course, in the past I have put my finger on glow plug, and when it got hot, I knew it was working! I wonder if same test would be applicable on this Tractor😂 I would not need this feature very often, but it would be nice to know if it was working correctly, on the other hand I think it’s sometimes best to leave sleeping dogs lie. Thx
 
OK as usual thanks for your advice have more or less already done the above almost ready to put that part of the tractor to bed. I’m starting the tractor with a battery that I use on a smaller tractor a IH B 275. I would like to get a bigger battery to help spin it as when it’s cooler say 45° it’s a little slower to crank, it had two batteries in it, but I think one will serve me well..what size cranking amp battery would you recommend if I can ask ? also, I have never tried to use the cold weather starting glow plug… of course, in the past I have put my finger on glow plug, and when it got hot, I knew it was working! I wonder if same test would be applicable on this Tractor😂 I would not need this feature very often, but it would be nice to know if it was working correctly, on the other hand I think it’s sometimes best to leave sleeping dogs lie. Thx
I would put a Group 31 battery in it. Those are available with regular top posts or 3/8 threaded top posts. Commonly found with 950 to 1100 cold cranking amps. They are the best buy for what you get in most places as they are a very common battery in trucks these days, volume helps keep the price down. If there is a medium and heavy-duty truck dealer/shop near you, check with them, those places often have the lowest prices on those batteries around here.
 

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