Gifted JD 2350 over my head, electrical issues

[Jim.ME]

Thanks for all the helpful comments, have not heard the the beeping sound again here’s hoping I never do! had some success this weekend. I gave somebody an old John Deere 2010. It had engine issues that I could not deal with.. replaced the seals on the load control shaft. Plan on replacing hydraulic filter today and filling with hydraulic fluid.. I did notice some slight wear on the shaft on one side I can live with a small leak and replace shaft later if needed.. my bad, I unintentionally inferred that I had replaced the starter switch. I had bought one but once again, my electrical ignorance bushwhacked me..I thought because the solenoid was clicking that I didn’t need to replaceit right now. also, one of the two piggyback wires that were moved from the ground to the ignition on the key switch. The smaller of the two , I think 14 gauge is hanging by an hanging by a thread and needs and new terminal. it’s a strange terminal to me ,there’s like a lip that goes down into the other terminal. I don’t know if that’s a standard thing or not but I will find out. Here’s a photo of my broken throttle kill cable. Every time I look at the route under the battery box through a small hole that I can’t reach I wonder how I’m going to snake a cable through it, knowing of course sometimes it’s not as bad as it looks. thanks again will let you know how it’s going.,

I believe you are looking at spade terminals. The male (on the switch) is a solid blade and the female on a wire slides on over it. 1/4" wide spade is common. Your local parts store should have those wire ends for the different wire gauges, just like they have for ring terminals and other wire ends.

I can't say for certain it will work but you could try making a short hook in the end of the broken cable wire and hooking a mechanic's wire to that before you pull it out. Use the old cable to lead the mechanic's wire through as you pull the old cable out. Then you use the wire to lead the new cable back in. I would not cut the new cable until I got it pulled through, so as to be sure the length is right. Or use the old cable as your guide to cut the new one. If you do that, I suggest leaving the inner wire a bit long so as to cut the hook off (if I made one for the mechanic's wire).

 

[stevieb49829]

Thanks for all the helpful comments, have not heard the the beeping sound again here’s hoping I never do! had some success this weekend. I gave somebody an old John Deere 2010. It had engine issues that I could not deal with.. replaced the seals on the load control shaft. Plan on replacing hydraulic filter today and filling with hydraulic fluid.. I did notice some slight wear on the shaft on one side I can live with a small leak and replace shaft later if needed.. my bad, I unintentionally inferred that I had replaced the starter switch. I had bought one but once again, my electrical ignorance bushwhacked me..I thought because the solenoid was clicking that I didn’t need to replaceit right now. also, one of the two piggyback wires that were moved from the ground to the ignition on the key switch. The smaller of the two , I think 14 gauge is hanging by an hanging by a thread and needs and new terminal. it’s a strange terminal to me ,there’s like a lip that goes down into the other terminal. I don’t know if that’s a standard thing or not but I will find out. Here’s a photo of my broken throttle kill cable. Every time I look at the route under the battery box through a small hole that I can’t reach I wonder how I’m going to snake a cable through it, knowing of course sometimes it’s not as bad as it looks. thanks again will let you know how it’s going.,

Before you pull the old cable, attach a piece of light gauge wire or good string to the end of it, and pull it through when you pull the old cable. Reverse the process to feed your new cable back through, pulling the string/wire as you go. Sorry, Jim must have been typing the same time I was. (great minds, etc) steve

 

[danc1948]

Thanks to both. I’ve thought about the push pull cable method weighing my chances.. also, there is another hole on the same side of the tractor as the pump,I could run from there. if using a single battery which is likely it would not be in the way, but I kind of like the idea of taking the old out and cutting to fit, leaving a couple of inches of wire but can’t get to that yet. dropped the hydraulic filter cover cleaned everything all around, put the new filter in and realized there was no cover gasket I don’t know whether that’s normal or not to not include a new gasket but I put the old one back in, it seemed in decent shape.. have not put fluid in as yet in case somebody says that’s a no no. local automotive store had the terminals you referred to as spade. I think I got the right ones. It was an assortment. have seen some 6014 headlights for sale 12 bucks online easier than going to the junkyard will order one tonight.. can’t thank you enough

 

[Jim.ME]

Thanks to both. I’ve thought about the push pull cable method weighing my chances.. also, there is another hole on the same side of the tractor as the pump,I could run from there. if using a single battery which is likely it would not be in the way, but I kind of like the idea of taking the old out and cutting to fit, leaving a couple of inches of wire but can’t get to that yet. dropped the hydraulic filter cover cleaned everything all around, put the new filter in and realized there was no cover gasket I don’t know whether that’s normal or not to not include a new gasket but I put the old one back in, it seemed in decent shape.. have not put fluid in as yet in case somebody says that’s a no no. local automotive store had the terminals you referred to as spade. I think I got the right ones. It was an assortment. have seen some 6014 headlights for sale 12 bucks online easier than going to the junkyard will order one tonight.. can’t thank you enough

Yup, John Deere does not include the rubber washer (R34733) with that transmission filter (AR75603). I'm surprised the parts guy didn't tell you he had a note when he looked up the filter that the washer showed as a mandatory part. That info shows up when I check the filter stock on my dealer's site. I have reused the old ones before. As long as it went up right you should be ok. I generally used grease to stick the washer in place up in the transmission housing. They fit tighter to the outside of the transmission housing hole than the lip of the filter housing. I have not cut one doing that but did cut one I tried to install on the filter housing, when it got out of place.

Before you put the UTHF (Hy Gard or a premium UTHF meeting the J20C spec) back in the transmission, did you clean the suction screen? If you did not, it is located behind the filter a few inches. In the lower side of the transmission case there is plug with a head about 2" in diameter and a 1/2" square hole for breaker bar to turn. The screen is behind that plug. Pull it out, clean it, and reuse.

 

[danc1948]

Good morning Jim and others… this is not a rant about JD but I have wised up to the parts procedure. this is not the first time they have come up a little short. Some of this is due to my ignorance and I now check the bag with my parts to make sure everything’s correct.. for lack of a better word this dealership can only handle the gentleman farmer equipment and bobcats, from what they tell me the bigger agricultural tractors they do not have access to the computer base due to franchise considerations .One of their tech’s would have come to my place for roughly $300 to check it out but I don’t know if he would’ve been able to get access to information that you need or not so I turned to you guys at the forum. A heartfelt thank you. i’m reasonably confident that the trans cover seated properly and I had read to use grease to hold it in place. didn’t know about the suction screen! nothing I had read tIcked that box so thanks will definitely take care of that item.. I purchased hydraulic oil with prescribed numbers you mentioned above from a local oil company… going to go look for that plug..!

 

[danc1948]

Thanks for mentioning the suction filter. It was so clogged I can’t believe anything could possibly get through it. Fixed the piggyback wires. turned starter switch three times in a row each time solenoid engaged. Then it stopped doing that, for whatever reason I kept the switch on for longer than normal, and it caught again and the engine started. I had tightened the bolt for the transmission cover pretty tight, but there was a bit of a leak after the engine ran , when I crawled under to re-tighten there was a good bit of slack in it, so that was tightened up and hopefully that will do it. apparently there is still just a little something in the way of the electrical flow friend of mine is coming up tomorrow to help me out. We’ll see what comes from that. wire wheeled solenoid terminal and starter terminal as well as the ground area also backed out starter bolt cleaned it off wire wheeled the hole area and put it back in. as always if you have any suggestions they are always welcome. Thanks a lot.

 

[danc1948]

Hello a progress report on the Tractor but first I would like to say if I have offended anyone with a previous post regarding JD I apologize, my intent was more to inform than to criticize… a friend with the multimeter came to help me out today, the tractor started too many times because I had not yet put on throttle kill cable… it’s intermittent 50-50 deal sometimes if I hold the spring loaded start switch on then it will start. My friend told me when it did not start. He was reading, roughly 7.75 volts at solenoid terminal if it was eight or more it started. sounds great when it runs no smoke… took a picture of the serial number on the engine today so I would have it at the dealership come to find out this tractor is made in Saran France, I had thought they were made in Mannheim Germany. curious to know if things like Zierk fittings nuts and bolts etc are metric or American standard. put on the Kill-switch cable later in the day seems to work correctly though I did not start the engine. that’s it for now. Thanks.

 

[Jim.ME]

Hello a progress report on the Tractor but first I would like to say if I have offended anyone with a previous post regarding JD I apologize, my intent was more to inform than to criticize… a friend with the multimeter came to help me out today, the tractor started too many times because I had not yet put on throttle kill cable… it’s intermittent 50-50 deal sometimes if I hold the spring loaded start switch on then it will start. My friend told me when it did not start. He was reading, roughly 7.75 volts at solenoid terminal if it was eight or more it started. sounds great when it runs no smoke… took a picture of the serial number on the engine today so I would have it at the dealership come to find out this tractor is made in Saran France, I had thought they were made in Mannheim Germany. curious to know if things like Zierk fittings nuts and bolts etc are metric or American standard. put on the Kill-switch cable later in the day seems to work correctly though I did not start the engine. that’s it for now. Thanks.

Look over this document, the last few pages tell about the serial number breakdowns.

2350 Introduction

A lot of engines were built at the Saran plant for other JD plants, like Mannheim. The tractor itself was built/assembled in Mannheim.

I think you will find most of the hardware for the north American 2350s is SAE, American, not metric.

It sounds like there is still a voltage loss in the starter solenoid circuit. Adding a relay to engage the starter and taking the load of the switches may help. See what you find and if you need info on doing that let me know. Does it crank every time if you jump the battery post to the start post of the solenoid?

 

[danc1948]

the few times that I have tried positive terminal to solenoid It did offer to crank but have not done it that many times as I did not want the tractor to start because it had no hydraulic oil in it until a few days ago but every time that I did yes it tried to crank. now with a throttle kill installed that will make it easier to check things out. Previous owner indicated there was no fuel cap on fuel tank for a period of time. He wasn’t sure how long when I got it. It had tinfoil with the Ziptie wrapped around it. I need to drain the fuel immediately before it runs too much also replace the fuel filter,hydrostatic steering filter
looking for the fuel cock, I noticed Zirk fitting for front Axle have not received grease in very long time.I had some fittings that looked the right size but wouldn’t go. Maybe they are not the right thread count I will find out. curious to know if the relay you speak of is the equivalent of putting in a bypass starter switch? thank you as always for the information will keep plugging away.,

 

[Jim.ME]

the few times that I have tried positive terminal to solenoid It did offer to crank but have not done it that many times as I did not want the tractor to start because it had no hydraulic oil in it until a few days ago but every time that I did yes it tried to crank. now with a throttle kill installed that will make it easier to check things out. Previous owner indicated there was no fuel cap on fuel tank for a period of time. He wasn’t sure how long when I got it. It had tinfoil with the Ziptie wrapped around it. I need to drain the fuel immediately before it runs too much also replace the fuel filter,hydrostatic steering filter
looking for the fuel cock, I noticed Zirk fitting for front Axle have not received grease in very long time.I had some fittings that looked the right size but wouldn’t go. Maybe they are not the right thread count I will find out. curious to know if the relay you speak of is the equivalent of putting in a bypass starter switch? thank you as always for the information will keep plugging away.,

I would not call the relay a bypass switch, more of a "power booster". The relay is energized by the regular starting switch through all the safety switches. With a relay that system only has to pull in the small coil inside the relay. When the coil pulls in it closes a set of contacts that sends battery power to the solenoid more directly through heavier wires, to eliminate the voltage and current losses encountered going through the current path. It would be a relay similar to the couple the tractor already has for other circuits. This picture may help explain where it would go and work. It can be mounted near the starter, doesn't have to be in the dash.

 

[danc1948]

Thank you so much I appreciate that diagram though at the moment it is definitely over my head, however, eventually could come to grips with it.. after exhausting all possibilities I might very well take you up on that diagram. I am still in the process of trying some of the possible remedies you and others have put forward just today put on an extra ground battery cable to the starter bolt. have yet to take any connectors apart and clean although I’m not sure how you do that but I’ll find out. Open the petcock on the fuel tank. Nothing came out until I poked a piece of electric fence wire in and a blast of compressed air dId the trick. I would like to do a little more maintenance now that it’s running put on a bush hog see how it does with a weight off the back for hydraulics, etc. etc. and get an idea of what I’ve got…. for now thanks.

 

[Jim.ME]

Thank you so much I appreciate that diagram though at the moment it is definitely over my head, however, eventually could come to grips with it.. after exhausting all possibilities I might very well take you up on that diagram. I am still in the process of trying some of the possible remedies you and others have put forward just today put on an extra ground battery cable to the starter bolt. have yet to take any connectors apart and clean although I’m not sure how you do that but I’ll find out. Open the petcock on the fuel tank. Nothing came out until I poked a piece of electric fence wire in and a blast of compressed air dId the trick. I would like to do a little more maintenance now that it’s running put on a bush hog see how it does with a weight off the back for hydraulics, etc. etc. and get an idea of what I’ve got…. for now thanks.

 

[danc1948]

Jim and others were it not for your help. I might still be trying to start a tractor.. an a quick update, starting is still intermittent..will get back to that again soon. Attached a 6 foot mower deck to the tractor yesterday. Mowed a few passes in pasture, PTO worked as expected,, no hesitation lifting mower deck, turned off engine with mower deck l raised heard no bleed down whatsoever .. right break fully functional left break nothing there until all the way to the floorboard and then small shimmy from the tire… so all in all so far, so good…. back to the electrical as best as I can tell there is a smaller wire coming off the neutral starting switch that goes to a relay, terminal number 30 I suppose as I don’t know the exact terminology,, there is also a small wire coming off the ignition terminal post of the keyed switch. It goes into a wiring harness but according to wiring diagram, it appears it goes to the same relay, but number 86.. the output of this relay if that’s the correct terminology is number 87, which goes to the number two terminal of the honeycomb network, which in turn goes to the starter…. The wiring diagram shows one relay, but there are two on this tractor and both look new compared to everything else, Bright blue. it appears the parking brake line goes to one of them..my hunch is my ignition issue lies here, and will require a lot more sleuthing from myself…looking at the lighting system switch it doesn’t look to me like any of the wires coming off that have anything to do with ignition…? one small item of curiosity, there must be a reason for the fact that the PTO stub comes out off-center from the top link hook up, also not centered in the middle between the sway bars, I can only think there must be an application where a PTO shaft might get in the way of a particular piece of equipment when lifting. i’m sure someone here knows the reason… always appreciate comments. Thanks.

 

[Jim.ME]

Jim and others were it not for your help. I might still be trying to start a tractor.. an a quick update, starting is still intermittent..will get back to that again soon. Attached a 6 foot mower deck to the tractor yesterday. Mowed a few passes in pasture, PTO worked as expected,, no hesitation lifting mower deck, turned off engine with mower deck l raised heard no bleed down whatsoever .. right break fully functional left break nothing there until all the way to the floorboard and then small shimmy from the tire… so all in all so far, so good…. back to the electrical as best as I can tell there is a smaller wire coming off the neutral starting switch that goes to a relay, terminal number 30 I suppose as I don’t know the exact terminology,, there is also a small wire coming off the ignition terminal post of the keyed switch. It goes into a wiring harness but according to wiring diagram, it appears it goes to the same relay, but number 86.. the output of this relay if that’s the correct terminology is number 87, which goes to the number two terminal of the honeycomb network, which in turn goes to the starter…. The wiring diagram shows one relay, but there are two on this tractor and both look new compared to everything else, Bright blue. it appears the parking brake line goes to one of them..my hunch is my ignition issue lies here, and will require a lot more sleuthing from myself…looking at the lighting system switch it doesn’t look to me like any of the wires coming off that have anything to do with ignition…? one small item of curiosity, there must be a reason for the fact that the PTO stub comes out off-center from the top link hook up, also not centered in the middle between the sway bars, I can only think there must be an application where a PTO shaft might get in the way of a particular piece of equipment when lifting. i’m sure someone here knows the reason… always appreciate comments. Thanks.

One relay is for the hand brake warning light and the other is for the hand brake audible alarm according to the drawings you posted.

 

[danc1948]

Realized after I posted that that I was looking at the starter circuit diagram and there was one relay too many! my bad. there are a number of wires that go to each. I think I’m going to have to take wrapping off the wiring harness in order to find out what goes where Thanks, Jim

 

[danc1948]

To those who helped me out thank you very much. I hope you read this ..the fly in the ointment for the intermittent starting I found out by accident was the parking brake sensor… the plunger was sticking just enough that it did not always make contact inside WD-40 cure that and now the tractor starts every time. Thanks again.

 

[Jim.ME]

To those who helped me out thank you very much. I hope you read this ..the fly in the ointment for the intermittent starting I found out by accident was the parking brake sensor… the plunger was sticking just enough that it did not always make contact inside WD-40 cure that and now the tractor starts every time. Thanks again.

Thanks for letting us know. Enjoy your tractor.

 

[danc1948]

Don’t know whether to start a new thread or not, but decided to post here..have not gotten good results from googling how to clean the incredibly filthy transmission fluid cooler shown in photo below. Have not thoroughly examined what to do as yet, but it looks like there are four bolts holding it in place and a hose to disconnect.. would anybody here recommend the best way to clean this? gently scrape, then compressed air, soak it in a diesel bath, etc ? also… the other posted photo is the light switch off a 2350 John Deere. Nobody can tell me what the ceramic looking heater looking coil is on it and or what is its purpose. There is currently no power to the switch nor has there been since I got the tractor so I don’t know if it’s an important item or not, I purchased another light switch without it but as yet have not placed any wiring on it.. just curious
thank you,

 

[Jim.ME]

Don’t know whether to start a new thread or not, but decided to post here..have not gotten good results from googling how to clean the incredibly filthy transmission fluid cooler shown in photo below. Have not thoroughly examined what to do as yet, but it looks like there are four bolts holding it in place and a hose to disconnect.. would anybody here recommend the best way to clean this? gently scrape, then compressed air, soak it in a diesel bath, etc ? also… the other posted photo is the light switch off a 2350 John Deere. Nobody can tell me what the ceramic looking heater looking coil is on it and or what is its purpose. There is currently no power to the switch nor has there been since I got the tractor so I don’t know if it’s an important item or not, I purchased another light switch without it but as yet have not placed any wiring on it.. just curious
thank you,

The resistor reduces voltage to the headlights for a dim headlight.

Should be an inlet and outlet on the oil cooler, two hoses. I would remove the oil cooler and plug the oil ports of the cooler and the hoses that were unhooked. Then carefully pressure wash it, use a strong soap to break up the crud on and in the fins and tubes. Also, it will be a good time to clean the radiator, with the cooler out of the way. Again, don't get right up hard against them with a pressure washer and bend or break up fins.

 

[danc1948]

Great! thanks for advice on the oil cooler will proceed that way. I plan on a light bar on the rop suspension bridge so I guess I will not need a resistor.for that application. thanks again.