Is this engine ready for rings?

[farmalldave]

Ok thanks for info. All parts are ordered so waiting on them. I'll still post my progress.

 

[rustred]

Ok thanks for info. All parts are ordered so waiting on them. I'll still post my progress.

It’s nice u keep posting on the original post, keeps things in order. Instead of a new post each time. And agree on the pressure wash . Vinegar is acid and u don’t want that near brgs. I have seen mechanic’s not allow you to touch a new brg surface just from the acid in your skin. Just wrap up the crank journals to keep junk from keeping in the oil galleries. You will get it done.

 

[farmalldave]

Ok so far I think it's going pretty good. I removed the black glaze that is on the lip where the sleeve sits on top of the block. I cleaned out the area where the seal for the sleeve goes. I power washed the inside of block after covering journal. I also blew all the water out with air. I applied wd 40 to the journals after all was dry. I can't go any further have to wait on the bearings for the rods. Ordered the wrong bearing set..

 

[rustred]

Ok so far I think it's going pretty good. I removed the black glaze that is on the lip where the sleeve sits on top of the block. I cleaned out the area where the seal for the sleeve goes. I power washed the inside of block after covering journal. I also blew all the water out with air. I applied wd 40 to the journals after all was dry. I can't go any further have to wait on the bearings for the rods. Ordered the wrong bearing set..

what is holding them pistons up like that ? have u checked the ring end gap ? and then orientate the rings before u install the pistons in the sleeves with lots of oil. and have u checked the wrist pin bushings in the rods ? would have been a good idea to chase them stud threads before all that cleaning, they are really dirty.

 

[farmalldave]

what is holding them pistons up like that ? have u checked the ring end gap ? and then orientate the rings before u install the pistons in the sleeves with lots of oil. and have u checked the wrist pin bushings in the rods ? would have been a good idea to chase them stud threads before all that cleaning, they are really dirty.

I just have the pistons sitting in the hole. Waiting on the bearings for the rods. All I have done is seals and sleeves.

 

[farmalldave]

I just have the pistons sitting in the hole. Waiting on the bearings for the rods. All I have done is seals and sleeves.

I'll check all that stuff.

 

[Janicholson]

I'll check all that stuff.

Real assembly lube. WD-40 is not a lubricant. Get a tube of engine assembly lube Jim

 

[rustred]

I just have the pistons sitting in the hole. Waiting on the bearings for the rods. All I have done is seals and sleeves.

Then pistons should be sitting on the oil ring then. They can’t be that tight to just sit there.

 

[farmalldave]

Then pistons should be sitting on the oil ring then. They can’t be that tight to just sit there.

Yes I made sure I bought the Lucas oil stuff I just put some wd on the journals. After I washed the block out.

 

[John Deere D]

Are the Crankshaft bearings undersized,or standard?

 

[used red MN]

The picture is not the greatest but the top of the block that the head gasket will seal against is not cleaned well enough. If this is how you were going to leave it you are asking for trouble with the head gasket not sealing. It should have been clean better before the sleeves were put back in. A wire cup brush on a drill could have been used then. If you do that now you will introduce a lot of grit and debris into the new sleeve surfaces. They have these fancy carbide scrapers now that work pretty good. Example Carbide scraper Harbor Freight has them as well not sure they have a narrow one. I have used the square end of a flat file this same way. A quality Nicholson file used to have a nice square end and of course they were hard.

 

[farmalldave]

Are the Crankshaft bearings undersized,or standard?

Standard

 

[John Deere D]

Ok so far I think it's going pretty good. I removed the black glaze that is on the lip where the sleeve sits on top of the block. I cleaned out the area where the seal for the sleeve goes. I power washed the inside of block after covering journal. I also blew all the water out with air. I applied wd 40 to the journals after all was dry. I can't go any further have to wait on the bearings for the rods. Ordered the wrong bearing set..

Pic is of my W9 Block. I had a Diesel Mechanic stop by....He told me to call him when a piece of Paper dampened with rubbing alcohol would not show any signs of foreign debris on the matting surface with the block/head/gasket. The HEAD GASKET sealed 100%........

 

[farmalldave]

Pic is of my W9 Block. I had a Diesel Mechanic stop by....He told me to call him when a piece of Paper dampened with rubbing alcohol would not show any signs of foreign debris on the matting surface with the block/head/gasket. The HEAD GASKET sealed 100%........

View attachment 77768

I will do that with the damp paper before I install the gasket. I also have the copper coat is that something u guys use usually when putting a new head gasket on.

 

[John Deere D]

I will do that with the damp paper before I install the gasket. I also have the copper coat is that something u guys use usually when putting a new head gasket on.

The pic you posted of your Engine block.....YES, you have the matting surface looking great...Threads on Studs look much better.

 

[used red MN]

I will do that with the damp paper before I install the gasket.

Just be careful not to overdo it. That test does not apply to areas the gasket won’t be sealing against as shown circled in the photo. I don’t want you to scrape or buff those areas trying to get them to pass that test and then unintentionally remove adjacent material where the gasket is actually sealing on. I am all about it being clean and I am particular but that test is a pretty tight criteria for an old low compression tractor engine. Probably a great way to assess the surface for a diesel or high compression racing engine.
Copper Coat is a very good sealer choice in my opinion.

 

[John Deere D]

Just be careful not to overdo it. That test does not apply to areas the gasket won’t be sealing against as shown circled in the photo. I don’t want you to scrape or buff those areas trying to get them to pass that test and then unintentionally remove adjacent material where the gasket is actually sealing on. I am all about it being clean and I am particular but that test is a pretty tight criteria for an old low compression tractor engine. Probably a great way to assess the surface for a diesel or high compression racing engine.
Copper Coat is a very good sealer choice in my opinion.
View attachment 77863

Yes I agree......Probably a great way to assess the surface for a diesel or high compression racing engine.

 

[farmalldave]

Ok so the pistons are in with new bearings.. My question is what is the ft lb of torque on the rod nuts. Just making sure I'm going to torque them to spec. The manual says 40lbs. Also those cotter pins should be fun to put back in . I have new ones.

 

[rustred]

yes its 40-45 lbs of torque. if at 40 lbs the cotter pin dont go in keep tightening till they go in. make sure to torque and check the clearance with plastiguage before the cotter pin install.

 

[rustred]

yes its 40-45 lbs of torque. if at 40 lbs the cotter pin dont go in keep tightening till they go in. make sure to torque and check the clearance with plastiguage before the cotter pin install.

yes its 40-45 lbs of torque. if at 40 lbs the cotter pin dont go in keep tightening till they go in. make sure to torque and check the clearance with plastiguage before the cotter pin install.

and if the holes are too far out i have even swapped the nuts around .