Poor connection

[Rush55]

wow I'm glad I didn't continue . so I'll try and connect it to starter housing bolt is that ok

 

[Rush55]

the starter bolt is bigger so have to bore out cable end

 

[Jim.ME]

the starter bolt is bigger so have to bore out cable end

Do not connect any wire between the battery positive post and ground (any metal part of the tractor). You only connect the end of the cable on the battery negative post to ground.

Yes take the negative battery cable off the stud on the end of the starter, enlarge the hole and put it under one of the 3 bolts that hook the starter to the tractor.

 

[Rush55]

Will do much gracias

 

[used red MN]

the starter bolt is bigger so have to bore out cable end

I hate to overrule Jim, but the end of that cable can bolt anywhere on a bolt of the cast iron block of the engine. That description may be over your head but I am going with it. For others here is my reasoning, the fact that the jumper cable clamped on the frame makes it crank tell me the starter base and bolts are in good enough continuity with its mounting point.

 

[Rush55]

I was wondering since like you said about the negative booster cable.

 

[Rush55]

well I'm thankful for all yall

 

[used red MN]

I was wondering since like you said about the negative booster cable.

Rush, I am quite patient in terms of helping you out here but it would be really helpful if you used the advantages of placing/posting your replies in the more desirable way the forum provides. Whoever or whichever reply that you want to add on you comment to about “booster cables” that shows as reply 146 should have been initiated by clicking the reply in the lower right of the wording you want to comment on in your reply. If it was my reply 145, that is the box you should have clicked reply in and typed what you said. I don’t know if you will be able to understand this but it just helps me “air” some frustration.
We have been “wondering” about that booster cable replacing (making the connections/carrying the load of) the negative battery cable for about a 100 replies now I would think it would be clear. I don’t think you have much understanding of basic electrical circuits, (5th grade science) that is definitely required here. I am stopping there before I have to swallow my entire shoe.

 

[Rush55]

Rush, I am quite patient in terms of helping you out here but it would be really helpful if you used the advantages of placing/posting your replies in the more desirable way the forum provides. Whoever or whichever reply that you want to add on you comment to about “booster cables” that shows as reply 146 should have been initiated by clicking the reply in the lower right of the wording you want to comment on in your reply. If it was my reply 145, that is the box you should have clicked reply in and typed what you said. I don’t know if you will be able to understand this but it just helps me “air” some frustration.
We have been “wondering” about that booster cable replacing (making the connections/carrying the load of) the negative battery cable for about a 100 replies now I would think it would be clear. I don’t think you have much understanding of basic electrical circuits, (5th grade science) that is definitely required here. I am stopping there before I have to swallow my entire shoe.

 

[Rush55]

well my sincere apologies.

 

[Rush55]

well my sincere apologies.

well ran ground to starter bolt. tractor now cranks without cables hallelujah. I got a few other things now but would like to thank all with their feedback and my hard headness.

 

[used red MN]

That is very good to hear! So is the plan to temporarily wire it and get it to the technical school as stated in reply 124? Or do you still have it in mind that you are capable of repairing the wiring?

 

[Jim.ME]

well ran ground to starter bolt. tractor now cranks without cables hallelujah. I got a few other things now but would like to thank all with their feedback and my hard headness.

Good you have it cranking without using the booster cable.

You mentioned taking it to a vocational school to have them rewire it. To help you with that I am attaching a rough wiring diagram (of what I wrote in my post the other night) you should be able to use to make it run enough to load it and get it to the vocational school for a proper rewiring.

Do not attach any of the old wires there may be short circuits inside the harness you cannot see.

This wiring bypasses any safety switches, such as neutral start, the tractor may have. Be sure it is in neutral before cranking and it would be best if you were in the seat.

 

[Destroked 450]

Good you have it cranking without using the booster cable.

You mentioned taking it to a vocational school to have them rewire it. To help you with that I am attaching a rough wiring diagram (of what I wrote in my post the other night) you should be able to use to make it run enough to load it and get it to the vocational school for a proper rewiring.

Do not attach any of the old wires there may be short circuits inside the harness you cannot see.

This wiring bypasses any safety switches, such as neutral start, the tractor may have. Be sure it is in neutral before cranking and it would be best if you were in the seat.

View attachment 83096

I would have keep it simple and run a wire from the batteries positive post down to the fuel shutoff which is less than 18 inches below the battery
Connect the wire start the tractor load a pull the wire off to stop the engine, repeat when you get it to the school

 

[Rush55]

im

That is very good to hear! So is the plan to temporarily wire it and get it to the technical school as stated in reply 124? Or do you still have it in mind that you are capable of repairing the wiring?

I just found out the other re/white goes along the brown/green both run together and hook to accessory on the ignition switch; so I need to get some 14 Guage wire and have someone who knows how to piece it back together. Does anyone know how I can test my alternator.

 

[Rush55]

im

I just found out the other re/white goes along the brown/green both run together and hook to accessory on the ignition switch; so I need to get some 14 Guage wire and have someone who knows how to piece it back together. Does anyone know how I can test my alternator.

just read this guy's t shirt at butter crisp donuts said " I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you:

 

[Rush55]

Good you have it cranking without using the booster cable.

You mentioned taking it to a vocational school to have them rewire it. To help you with that I am attaching a rough wiring diagram (of what I wrote in my post the other night) you should be able to use to make it run enough to load it and get it to the vocational school for a proper rewiring.

Do not attach any of the old wires there may be short circuits inside the harness you cannot see.

This wiring bypasses any safety switches, such as neutral start, the tractor may have. Be sure it is in neutral before cranking and it would be best if you were in the seat.

View attachment 83096

thanks for the diagram

 

[E.B. Haymakin']

just read this guy's t shirt at butter crisp donuts said " I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you:

And only let your brother in law barbecue food, not your tractor!

 

[Rush55]

And only let your brother in law barbecue food, not your tractor!

amen to that

 

[Rush55]

I would have keep it simple and run a wire from the batteries positive post down to the fuel shutoff which is less than 18 inches below the battery
Connect the wire start the tractor load a pull the wire off to stop the engine, repeat when you get it to the school

this is how my switch is wired