Poor connection

[Rush55]

amen to that

Do you know how to test alternator on your tractor?

 

[used red MN]

im

I just found out the other re/white goes along the brown/green both run together and hook to accessory on the ignition switch; so I need to get some 14 Guage wire and have someone who knows how to piece it back together. Does anyone know how I can test my alternator.

So against our warning to NOT CONNECT those burnt wires and put power to the original harness you are doing it anyway? “You said in an earlier reply the wires are only burned by the ignition switch.” The wires are burnt the entire length they run in the harness. The wire harness has to be cut open the entire length of where the burnt wires run in the harness and the wires repaired. You might get lucky and happen to have the wires in a place they are not shorted out now. Later add some heat of the tractor warming up, some vibration and some jarring bumps and it will likely short out again. THIS MAY VERY WELL BURN UP YOUR ENTIRE TRACTOR!! So please for your own good and “to see the light” in the terms that what we are telling you are facts just as they proved to be with your negative ground cable do the following. PLEASE READ BELOW WHAT I HAVE COPIED FROM MY REPLY 77. PLEASE FOLLOW THOSE INSTRUCTIONS AND INVESTIGATE THE SMALLER WIRES THAT COME OFF THE BATTERY CABLE TERMINAL ON THE STARTER. I am almost certain you will find wires there that also have been hot and are maybe burnt off and have melted insulation. Hopefully this will convince you that the wires ARE BURNT THAT ENTIRE LENGTH INSIDE THE HARNESS. The insulation is melted through and the wire that got hot can burn through the insulation of any other wires in the harness AND SHORT THEM TOGETHER!! THIS IS THE PROBLEM AND THE REASON THE HARNESS NEEDS CUT OPEN ALONG THE WHOLE LENGHT THAT HAS BURNT WIRES IN IT THAT SHORTED OUT!

To find out where one of the burnt wires goes I have a hunch for you to look at the terminal the battery post connects to on the solenoid. Are there other smaller wires on that terminal along with the battery cable? If so disconnect the negative cable off the battery to cut power to the system. Take off the nut on that terminal and remove the wires from it and examine the smaller wires and report back what you find, like burnt wires. That is the normal location a wire is connected to power all other systems on the machine beyond the high amp starting circuit, which basically means the battery cables and starter.

 

[caterpillar guy]

When you paste the quote in your reply then hit reply you only get what was pasted in your reply no comment from you has been added to it. As for the wiring some of it could have melted inside the harness from shorted wires when it shorted them they can melt inside the loom and then short in there without knowing it. I had a 65 Plymouth would run the battery dead while driving into town and back. Would have to pull it home sometimes. It would also blow the fusible link on the fire wall. I doubled the link with a 12 gauge wire using 2 of them twisted together. I spent about 2 weeks carefully cutting the wires apart under the dash and taping them back up after that. Fixed the shorting problem that was killing the battery though. If IT was mine I would just use a test light or meter to check for shorted wires in the harness then worry about where they go. Once any internally shorted wires are solved you will have more success with the rest of the wiring. The wires you are having a problem with now could be in this scenario.

 

[Rush55]

So against our warning to NOT CONNECT those burnt wires and put power to the original harness you are doing it anyway? “You said in an earlier reply the wires are only burned by the ignition switch.” The wires are burnt the entire length they run in the harness. The wire harness has to be cut open the entire length of where the burnt wires run in the harness and the wires repaired. You might get lucky and happen to have the wires in a place they are not shorted out now. Later add some heat of the tractor warming up, some vibration and some jarring bumps and it will likely short out again. THIS MAY VERY WELL BURN UP YOUR ENTIRE TRACTOR!! So please for your own good and “to see the light” in the terms that what we are telling you are facts just as they proved to be with your negative ground cable do the following. PLEASE READ BELOW WHAT I HAVE COPIED FROM MY REPLY 77. PLEASE FOLLOW THOSE INSTRUCTIONS AND INVESTIGATE THE SMALLER WIRES THAT COME OFF THE BATTERY CABLE TERMINAL ON THE STARTER. I am almost certain you will find wires there that also have been hot and are maybe burnt off and have melted insulation. Hopefully this will convince you that the wires ARE BURNT THAT ENTIRE LENGTH INSIDE THE HARNESS. The insulation is melted through and the wire that got hot can burn through the insulation of any other wires in the harness AND SHORT THEM TOGETHER!! THIS IS THE PROBLEM AND THE REASON THE HARNESS NEEDS CUT OPEN ALONG THE WHOLE LENGHT THAT HAS BURNT WIRES IN IT THAT SHORTED OUT!

I'm sorry will follow. my apologies to all.

 

[Rush55]

When you paste the quote in your reply then hit reply you only get what was pasted in your reply no comment from you has been added to it. As for the wiring some of it could have melted inside the harness from shorted wires when it shorted them they can melt inside the loom and then short in there without knowing it. I had a 65 Plymouth would run the battery dead while driving into town and back. Would have to pull it home sometimes. It would also blow the fusible link on the fire wall. I doubled the link with a 12 gauge wire using 2 of them twisted together. I spent about 2 weeks carefully cutting the wires apart under the dash and taping them back up after that. Fixed the shorting problem that was killing the battery though. If IT was mine I would just use a test light or meter to check for shorted wires in the harness then worry about where they go. Once any internally shorted wires are solved you will have more success with the rest of the wiring. The wires you are having a problem with now could be in this scenario.

well I'm gonna put it on a trailer and bring to the vocational school and let them work on it . no more running it. where is the fusible link at. thank yall so much

 

[Jim.ME]

I'm sorry will follow. my apologies to all.

You had said you wanted to get it to the voc school where the students would rewire it. My instructions and sketch were to help you get it loaded to take to the school. If you are just going to hook the old wires up without opening and checking the wires in the harness, you don't value what people are telling you. Good luck, you might cause a fire that burns the tractor, and more, up.

 

[Rush55]

You had said you wanted to get it to the voc school where the students would rewire it. My instructions and sketch were to help you get it loaded to take to the school. If you are just going to hook the old wires up without opening and checking the wires in the harness, you don't value what people are telling you. Good luck, you might cause a fire that burns the tractor, and more,

You had said you wanted to get it to the voc school where the students would rewire it. My instructions and sketch were to help you get it loaded to take to the school. If you are just going to hook the old wires up without opening and checking the wires in the harness, you don't value what people are telling you. Good luck, you might cause a fire that burns the tractor, and more, up.

I'm gonna wire it per your diagram and bring to school ASAP

 

[Jim.ME]

Good.

Now find a manual for them to use.

 

[Rush55]

when i.reply to post which reply button do I hit the one at the top right or the one by where it says post reply /attach files

 

[TerryfromSWIowa]

when i.reply to post which reply button do I hit the one at the top right or the one by where it says post reply /attach files

The one at the bottom right of the post you want to reply to type your response then hit post reply at bottom left.

 

[Jim.ME]

when i.reply to post which reply button do I hit the one at the top right or the one by where it says post reply /attach files

Posted this for you Wednesday

 

[Rush55]

The one at the bottom right of the post you want to reply to type your response then hit post reply at bottom left.

thanks

 

[Rush55]

where can I get 14 guage wire to use for my tractor

 

[Jim.ME]

where can I get 14 guage wire to use for my tractor

An auto parts store, Walmart, most hardware stores, for some places.

 

[Rush55]

Good you have it cranking without using the booster cable.

You mentioned taking it to a vocational school to have them rewire it. To help you with that I am attaching a rough wiring diagram (of what I wrote in my post the other night) you should be able to use to make it run enough to load it and get it to the vocational school for a proper rewiring.

Do not attach any of the old wires there may be short circuits inside the harness you cannot see.

This wiring bypasses any safety switches, such as neutral start, the tractor may have. Be sure it is in neutral before cranking and it would be best if you were in the seat.

View attachment 83096

was looking at this diagram my switch has 4 terminals

 

[Jim.ME]

was looking at this diagram my switch has 4 terminals

My diagram only showed the terminals you would need to use, not the actual terminals, or their locations on your switch. You should be able to get by without using the heater at this time.

If you have the terminals of the switch identified properly:

The wire from the battery post of the solenoid would go to #1
The wire to the fuel solenoid would attach to terminal #2
The wire to the small start terminal on the solenoid would connect to #4.

Terminal #3 is for the cold start heating system and you should be able to start and move it without that.

 

[used red MN]

An auto parts store, Walmart, most hardware stores, for some places.

You will want to get “stranded copper” wire.

 

[Rush55]

My diagram only showed the terminals you would need to use, not the actual terminals, or their locations on your switch. You should be able to get by without using the heater at this time.

If you have the terminals of the switch identified properly:

The wire from the battery post of the solenoid would go to #1
The wire to the fuel solenoid would attach to terminal #2
The wire to the small start terminal on the solenoid would connect to #4.

Terminal #3 is for the cold start heating system and you should be able to start and move it without that.

that's the way I understand it 2. now where do I get the 14 guage wire

 

[Rush55]

that's the way I understand it 2. now where do I get the 14 guage wire

do I unhook wire that comes from the ignition to the starter solenoid before attaching new wire from the ignition

 

[Jim.ME]

that's the way I understand it 2. now where do I get the 14 guage wire

READ POST # 174 (and POST #177)