PTO Engagement Lever leaking on D14

[onetotaltoolman]

About 1/2 done with a pretty much complete overhaul on the "field find" D14. Done with the front half, now headed south. First repair - PTO engagement lever is leaking. Parts book shows an O-ring on the shaft. Have not looked thru repair manual yet, but i'm hoping i can remove the traction booster spring, drop the pan, and get to the seal from the bottom. Anyone done this repair yet?

Lighter side- did a ton of work on the front half of this tractor- engine, power steering , etc,etc. Finally got to a point where i could drape the new wiring harness across the frame, put the battery in, hold my breath and hit the start button (has not been run in many years). Much to my surprise, the engine fired up instantly . Couldn't believe it, and my awe quickly turned to the 1/8" steel line that i had forgotten to attach to the rear of the traction booster gauge. Icarumba - a jet stream of oil sailed across the shop nailing the window some 20' away. Could not believe the little tiny oil line could shoot out enough oil to cause a valdez slick in my garage.

 

[DrAllis]

(quoted from post at 08:56:42 06/13/23) About 1/2 done with a pretty much complete overhaul on the "field find" D14. Done with the front half, now headed south. First repair - PTO engagement lever is leaking. Parts book shows an O-ring on the shaft. Have not looked thru repair manual yet, but i'm hoping i can remove the traction booster spring, drop the pan, and get to the seal from the bottom. Anyone done this repair yet?

Lighter side- did a ton of work on the front half of this tractor- engine, power steering , etc,etc. Finally got to a point where i could drape the new wiring harness across the frame, put the battery in, hold my breath and hit the start button (has not been run in many years). Much to my surprise, the engine fired up instantly . Couldn't believe it, and my awe quickly turned to the 1/8" steel line that i had forgotten to attach to the rear of the traction booster gauge. Icarumba - a jet stream of oil sailed across the shop nailing the window some 20' away. Could not believe the little tiny oil line could shoot out enough oil to cause a valdez slick in my garage.

Cannot be done the way you think it can be done. Technically, the tractor has to be split in half at the instrument panel. I have done them thru the side cover on the right side and removing the hand clutch lever and internal fork to get enough room to use a special homemade tool. There is a ROLL PIN that holds a shifter to the PTO lever shaft. The roll pin must be driven forward to get it out when the PTO lever is vertical. Replace with a 5/16" bolt and locknut using an air ratchet thru the side cover hole.

 

[onetotaltoolman]

Thanks for the info. Yup - looked at the parts book and i see the roll pin/engagement lever, etc. Figured this would require some work. Home made tool - i'll guess that was to find a way to pound out the roll pin from the other side of the tractor. In your opinion, is it a time saver to do it that way or split the tractor. I just got it back together from clutch forward, getting ready to pull rear axles off to replace brakes/seals/bearings across the rear end.

 

[DrAllis]

(quoted from post at 03:26:38 06/14/23) Thanks for the info. Yup - looked at the parts book and i see the roll pin/engagement lever, etc. Figured this would require some work. Home made tool - i'll guess that was to find a way to pound out the roll pin from the other side of the tractor. In your opinion, is it a time saver to do it that way or split the tractor. I just got it back together from clutch forward, getting ready to pull rear axles off to replace brakes/seals/bearings across the rear end.

If you do split it, there is a trans input shaft seal (upper) and a PTO shaft seal (lower) that are probably still original that can be replaced.

 

[onetotaltoolman]

That makes sense. i did replace both rear crank seal and two shaft seals (behind throwout bearing) when i had the front end seperated, so think i'll do the same on the back half. One other question - i have seen one vid posted about the supposed notorious 2nd. gear "pop-out" . i don't know if this one suffers from that . Do i research more to see if an attempt should be made to fix that potential problem?

 

[DrAllis]

(quoted from post at 07:01:06 06/14/23) That makes sense. i did replace both rear crank seal and two shaft seals (behind throwout bearing) when i had the front end seperated, so think i'll do the same on the back half. One other question - i have seen one vid posted about the supposed notorious 2nd. gear "pop-out" . i don't know if this one suffers from that . Do i research more to see if an attempt should be made to fix that potential problem?

Usually 3rd gear because that's the most used gear and people grind it into gear every time they use it. SO, in that case, I wouldn't worry about the leaking PTO lever until you determine the condition of the transmission.

 

[onetotaltoolman]

Thanks Doc - question : i have never worked on a tranny. I have seen a couple of pics of worn gears - usually rounded edges on the gear. Is the fix for this just to replace the 3rd. gear cog? I have not read any further ahead in my service manual to see how to repair this.

 

[DrAllis]

(quoted from post at 13:56:59 06/14/23) Thanks Doc - question : i have never worked on a tranny. I have seen a couple of pics of worn gears - usually rounded edges on the gear. Is the fix for this just to replace the 3rd. gear cog? I have not read any further ahead in my service manual to see how to repair this.

**** Your service manual isn't going to have a section for "what to replace if the transmission jumps out of any gear when going downhill" written into it. If this is a problem, it is from people grinding it into gear...ABUSE. Altho some people don't think it's abuse because they do this with everything they operate. Your main focus would be the damaged gear and the damaged collar/coupling that slides into that gear. Anything else is at your discretion, like seals, bearings, gaskets and anything else that you think is worn badly enough to justify.

 

[onetotaltoolman]

Dr Allis : one other question sorta on this thread. I have zero history on this tractor, so given i am not pulling off the pumpkin, and both rear axles have been
off to get new everything in them, it becomes a decent time to pull the tranny, which then will give easier access to the pto o-ring. I have never worked on any
transmission. I hear that some of these tractors pop out of gear, probably due to user clutch errors. (3rd. gear especially) . If i examine the tranny, what would
be a #1 tell-tale that a gear should be replaced. (i.e.- rounded edges of the teeth, missing tooth, etc.). Can't find much on this - so appreciate any tutoring.

 

[DrAllis]

If you remove the shift cover off the right side, you can view almost everything. 1st/LOW gear is the rear most gear on the bottom shaft. You can easily see the shifting dogs on it and they (generally look like new because no one uses low gear very much. 4th gear is the next gear forward and then 3rd gear, which is usually the worst. Compare 3rd, 2nd and 4th gears to LOW gear to determine wear on the shifting dogs.

 

[onetotaltoolman]

(quoted from post at 06:30:06 07/10/23) If you remove the shift cover off the right side, you can view almost everything. 1st/LOW gear is the rear most gear on the bottom shaft. You can easily see the shifting dogs on it and they (generally look like new because no one uses low gear very much. 4th gear is the next gear forward and then 3rd gear, which is usually the worst. Compare 3rd, 2nd and 4th gears to LOW gear to determine wear on the shifting dogs.

Very good info. Thanks for sending and sharing. If there is heavy wear on 3rd. gear, at least i know how to see it and order parts to replace.

 

[onetotaltoolman]

Hey doc- getting very close to the end of the d14 rebuild. Last step on the back half is to seperate the tranny to replace the orings on the pto shaft and seals on the pto shaft. To the untrained eye , I am not seeing enough wear
To take the tranny gears out and replace them. I know its just a pic, but do u see any deal breakers showing on the gear pics? Replacing all seals/races etc in the tractor. Now
That Im this far, hate to miss anything. Kirk

 

[DrAllis]

(quoted from post at 19:19:11 07/18/23) Hey doc- getting very close to the end of the d14 rebuild. Last step on the back half is to seperate the tranny to replace the orings on the pto shaft and seals on the pto shaft. To the untrained eye , I am not seeing enough wear
To take the tranny gears out and replace them. I know its just a pic, but do u see any deal breakers showing on the gear pics? Replacing all seals/races etc in the tractor. Now
That Im this far, hate to miss anything. Kirk
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto158952.jpg>

<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto158953.jpg>

Low gear is the rear gear and the shifting dogs look like new, AS THEY USUALLY DO !! Third gear shows some damage but pic not real clear. I'd run it. Every time you grind it in gear think of all the sparks you're making.

 

[onetotaltoolman]

Thanks for the comments - going to do a close exam on 3rd., and if i can't find much wear i'll probably move on with the remaining rebuild .
Sparks while shifting? Not this dude. I don't want to split the cases again and needlessly replace otherwise good gears. Clutch has a purpose,
and i do intend to use it.