Super C high oil pressure

[WD45Aaron]

Gents,

Last night I fired up a recently acquired Super C. This tractor has been sitting at least through last winter, beyond that I don't know. Prior to starting I changed the oil (30W non-detergent) and Napa filter (Wix). The oil pressure gauge pegged. I let it run for about a minute and then shut it down. The bottom end sounded fine, ran smooth on all 4, and the top end sounded good as well. A couple hours later I fired it up again for about 30 seconds. This time I paid a little closer attention to the oil pressure gauge. When it first started the needle rose to about halfway and then paused there for a second or two. Then it started rising again until pegged. I also had the valve cover off the second time. There is a fair amount of oil sitting on top the head but I saw very little oil, if any, coming through the rockers. Maybe you don't get much in 30 seconds?

I have checked the rocker arm center support stud. It is the correct stud and installed correctly. It's got the coarse-fine thread stud, so you can't easily make the mistake of installing it upside down. I also pulled the filter off just to check and it was full of oil (it was). The filter housing passages appear clean (no blockage).

How likely are the pressure relief valves to stick on these engines? My biggest fears would be spun bearing or oil galley blockage.

I have another pressure gauge that I am going to put on next and verify that it indeed has high pressure. Assuming the second gauge confirms the next step would be to pull the pan and the oil pump to check the pressure relief.

I appreciate any thoughts you guys have.

Thanks,
Aaron

 

[Curt Cooke]

I think you're going about it the right way. Get a reliable gauge and see if indeed there may be a problem. I once went about it the wrong way. Removed pan and pump, checked everything out and still had the problem. THEN I checked and found the gauge was not telling the truth. I'd allow a little more time on the oil up top thing. Excessive oil pressure is not a real problem except to the extent that the increased and unnecessary strain on the oil pump drive gear and camshaft driver gear causes them to wear abnormally.

 

[Janicholson]

You are looking at normal. Check it if you want, but they do peg. Use the 30 wt non-detergent for about 15 hours of run time, then change it to 10 30 or 15 40
oil. Modern oils would be specified in those engines by the manufacturer if made today. They are obsolete by a factor of 10. Jim

 

[Bob M]

I concur with Curt and JimN - most likely a bad gage. I've encountered this several times with old Farmall tractors...

 

[WD45Aaron]

I'm hoping it's just the gauge. High oil
pressure wouldn't bother me as long as it's
not a spun bearing or plugged oil galley. I
don't actually know that there is a
problem, but if there is I want to catch it
before it's too late and things come to a
screeching halt. Its running really nice.
Starts on the third whirl of the hand
crank. It would be a shame to have to tear
it down. I'll throw another gauge or two on
it and report back.

I'm always a little leary of putting
detergent oils in an engine that is unknown
to me. Many an engine have been killed
simply by switching to detergent. Sometimes
it's best to leave a sleeping dog like.
That being said, it very well might get
switched to 15w40 diesel oil some time in
the future. The little bit that I putter
around with them it probably wouldn't make
much difference.

Can someone tell me how the oiling system
works? After the pump what is the order of
what gets oil first, 2nd, etc?

 

[Janicholson]

If it is more than about 80 psi, then worry about the pressure regulator valve in the pump. A new gauge will probably do the same thing. Jim

 

[pete 23]

If the pressure is actually high, it for sure will warp that pot metal cover on the oil pump and
you will soon have low pressure at reduced speeds.

 

[WD45Aaron]

For those keeping score at home the results
are in. I put a 160 psi gauge on it because
it was 1/8" npt so I could quickly install
it. I fired it up and the pressure jumped
up to 40 and stayed there for all throttle
positions. I let it warm up for a few
minutes at medium throttle. Then I altered
between 2 or 3 minutes at wot and then 2 or
3 at idle. Over the course of several run
ups the pressure came down after every
cycle. Each time the pressure was a little
less than it was previously.

I then let it run at wot for several
minutes, then idled. At this point the
pressure was quite low on the scale. 5
pounds at idle and 15 ish at wot. Being so
low on the range of this gauge I figured
the readings weren't entirely accurate.

With a hand full of fittings I put a 1/4"
npt 60 psi gauge on. I fired it up after it
having sat for 15 minutes. Wot was 24-25
and idle was 9-10. I ran it again for
several minutes at wot and I'd say it
settled in at 20 wot and 7-8 idle.

As long as idle doesn't drop any more I'd
say we're sitting pretty good. I've got to
split it to change a leaky expansion plug.
After that I think she'll get right down
and haul the mail.

I appreciate everyone's input.

Thanks again,
Aaron

 

[AlinMO]

If you are going to split it, I'd check to make sure the oil pump plate didn't need resurfaced.

 

[WD45Aaron]

Split it today and immediately found the
water leak. Someone used a rubber expansion
plug. I don't know why because the rubber
plug costs 10X the money than the correct
part. 84 cents from O'Reilly's. I put a
wrench on it to loosen the nut and just as
I put the slightest pressure on the wrench
the rubber plug popped out completely. I
cleaned the water jacket crud. Installed
the steel plug using a little #2 Permatex.
Did it without removing the clutch and
flywheel. Engine is already bolted back on
to the torque tube. Tomorrow everything
else goes back together.

 

[Janicholson]

That was ugly. well done. Jim