1948 8N rebuild progress

I am not sure what is available in a kit form, I use to keep a transmission bearing/seal/gasket kit on my shelf from TISCO now SMA they always had name brand bearings in the kit. Their are quite a few good name brand bearings its one item you will find the manufacturing process to be across the board in tolerance dead nuts. You have to watch out for counterfeiting. I have found out FAG a top notch manufacturer to be one brand that's counter-fitted. If you use Amazon watch out for this.

The transmission kit listed hear use to have Timken bearings whats supplied today I dunno other than some are listed as TIM (Timken). It use to retail for $125 now $189. : (....
I checked all the auto parts stores around. The national bearings I got were made in Japan but the precision from Oreillys was made in China. I did not see anything in a kit. I returned them and found some nationals at Advance. Not sure where to get SMA bearings from around where I live. Not sure what websites are trust worthy to order from either.

I hate that we dont have Napa around anymore. I use to work there about 20 years ago and loved that job.
Do you have any bearing suppliers nearby? I know Babbitt is there, but they probably only sell their stuff. Might be something up near Wright - Patt. I have a great one here, take whatever you need in, and they usually have a US or Japanese made on the self, if not it is ussally the next day.

Edit: forgot the German made ones also.
Not sure. I will look into that some more.
 
The Precision bearings that just came in the mail for the Pinion P/N 53176 cone and 53375 cup are made in the USA and say Timken on them. The other parts stores did not even have this bearing available.
 

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Probably a waste of time since I plan to get them dipped but I cleaned up the motor and transmission casing some today. Was enjoyable blowing all the crud out of the water jackets.

Why do they make the expansion plug holes like this? I am use to car blocks where its all open and not that funnel into the block.
 

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Just happens to be how the iron runs around the core when the block is poured. Holes are to clean out all the sand core material. You can get a burr on a grinder if you don't want that iron in the hole. zuhnc
 
Just happens to be how the iron runs around the core when the block is poured. Holes are to clean out all the sand core material. You can get a burr on a grinder if you don't want that iron in the hole. zuhnc
Thanks. I was thinking about opening them up some to get into the water jackets better for cleaning
 
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I was just doing some small stuff yesterday like removing all the studs from the rear casing, brass bushings, and lowers links from the axle housings. I also removed the main studs from the engine block. Just getting it ready for the acid dipping. The metal cleaning place said they are 3 weeks behind so I need to get the parts out there soon. I have a lot of stuff to take apart and rebuild yet like the steering box and hydraulic pump that I can do in that time. Think I will pick up some Evapo-rust for all the bolts and some small parts that I dont want to sand blast.
 
Got the pilot bearing in the mail today and it looks the same except its a -b and the original is a -b1 and the inner race looks to be too long. I also got the last bearing off the pinion and the outer races out of their retainer. I will probably just reuse my inner race as its in great condition.
 

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Got the pilot bearing in the mail today and it looks the same except its a -b and the original is a -b1 and the inner race looks to be too long. I also got the last bearing off the pinion and the outer races out of their retainer. I will probably just reuse my inner race as its in great condition.
I did not know that inner race on the pinion was replaceable. I have replaced only one gear set and taken out a few from parts tractors. I will look at one when I find the time.
 
I had heard the after market pressure relief valves for the hydro pumps are not as good as the original. Any certain ones better than others?
 
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I had heard the after market pressure relief valves for the hydro pumps are not as good as the original. Any certain ones better than others?
Is been said the Ferguson style is rated higher around a couple 100 PSI , I dunno I do use the Ferguson style with no issues. The one YT shows is the Ferguson style but it reads what you get may not look like the pitcher. I keep a Sparex are I may have used it on the shelf it is the Ferguson style.
 
My dad finally found the original TSX33. Working on getting it cleaned up a little. It was pretty nasty. I even sprayed it with a little carb cleaner before these photos. I then ran it through some degreaser in the ultrasonic cleaner and now running it with some evapo-rust. I thought the idle jet was going to be stuck but with a good screwdriver and after the ultrasonic cleaner heat cycle it came out. Main jet came out fine as well as everyone else.

In the middle of the bowl at the bottom is that suppose to be a one way drain or something? Can it be replaced?
 

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Another round with purple power and now im pretty happy with it. I may still sandblast the outside though. The part circled is what I was wondering about.
 

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Another round with purple power and now im pretty happy with it. I may still sandblast the outside though. The part circled is what I was wondering about.
That is where the sintered metal drain plug is supposed to be. It lets gasoline run out of the intake but prevents unfiltered air from being able to enter
 
Thanks. Is mine missing a part then or just a different style of tsx33?
It is the early version from before the sintered brass insert. It would have had a felt disc in there. If you carefully remove the piece with the hole (it is staked in there) you can put some felt back in there and then reinstall the disc with the hole and stake it back in place. Or you can replace it with the sintered brass insert as they are available. I have not done that, so cannot tell you if it is easy or if it requires some trick. I did the felt on my TSX38 carb, was not hard to do at all, and cost nothing but time. There is always excess felt left over from the seal on the dust cover for the brake drum.
 
It is the early version from before the sintered brass insert. It would have had a felt disc in there. If you carefully remove the piece with the hole (it is staked in there) you can put some felt back in there and then reinstall the disc with the hole and stake it back in place. Or you can replace it with the sintered brass insert as they are available. I have not done that, so cannot tell you if it is easy or if it requires some trick. I did the felt on my TSX38 carb, was not hard to do at all, and cost nothing but time. There is always excess felt left over from the seal on the dust cover for the brake drum.
Thanks. I figured it was original as this tractor is mostly untouched. Not sure if I will mess with it yet but good to know its just felt if I needed to replace it.
 

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