Ford 5030 fuel injection pump not working after filter c

[Starchy]

1998 Ford 5030 MFWD
Fuel inj. pump: Cav DPS (I believe - no markings found)

I changed the fuel filter and cleaned the water separator.
I thought that I had completely bled the filters, but after starting and pulling the tractor out of it's shed, she stopped running, obviously because of air in lines.
After looking at a few videos and forums on the subject of bleeding the pump, I unscrewed what I thought was the injector pump bleed screw. After a bunch of extra searching, I found that it was actually the Latch Valve that I took out. What an idiot.

So now I know fuel is getting to the inj. pump, but nothing is coming out at the injector lines, even when cracked at the distributor-end of the pump and Throttle fully open. I don't believe this pump has shut-off solenoid.

Did I really screw something up inside the inj. pump?
What can I do?
Thanks!
-Doug

 

[Starchy]

I cracked-open the fuel-feed line into the inj. pump and pumped the manual priming pump to ensure fuel was getting to the inj. pump. Check -- fuel is flowing.

After verifying all lines were tight except for the injector lines at the injectors, I tried pumping with the manual priming pump again. After it offered more resistance to pumping, I tried cranking the engine. A very small indication of fuel was wetting the surrounding area at the forward injector site. I re-tightened that injector line and tried using the priming pump again. This time, after it gained some resistance pressure, the priming pump started spurting fuel as if a diaphragm blew out and sounded like it was sucking air as well. Wonderful.

 

[Matt in Oz]

Never worked on a fuel system that modern that had run out of fuel. Having said that on the older ones use the lift pump to get fuel to the pump then the pump should lift fuel to the injectors. Sounds like you have damaged the lift pump. Again only worked on the old ones, these have a diaphragm
and valves. You can repair or replace this. Do you have a manual? This will give you the best information specific to your tractor and will give you a fuel bleeding procedure. Had one tractor where you loosened a screw on the pump turn over the motor until fuel streams out tighten and you are
good to go. Get the manual, it prevents much frustration and aggravation.

 

[Destroked 450]

98 should have a electric fuel solenoid and also has the emissions injection pump
If it doesnt have a mechanical pull knob to shut the engine off it for sure has a electric fuel solenoid

 

[Starchy]

It is a 1998 model made in the UK. It does not have a solenoid, it has a bowden cable control knob to the throttle.
I replaced the manual priming pump this afternoon, and bled the inj. pump with an upper return line cracked open. But no joy yet.
I do have a shop manual for the 30 series, but not a lot of information on trouble-shooting the inj. pump. It's supposed to be self-priming, but the local master tractor mechanic told me that these fords are sometimes a pain to start after ingesting air.

He indicated that I may have to get another tractor to tow-start it. I certainly don't want to wear the battery down excessively with many heavy discharge/charge cycles.

This post was edited by Starchy on 07/09/2021 at 06:40 pm.

 

[Destroked 450]

Not sure about a 98 but I just had the head off of a neighbors 92 model 5030, had the entire fuel system disconnected and pulled the injectors to pop test them
After getting it back together I bleed the filters and loosened the lines at the injectors, after a few cranks fuel started coming out of a couple of lines, I tightened the lines and after a few more cranks it fired up
Easiest Ford tractor Ive ever got to fire up after having the fuel system apart, that tractor does have a kill cable, another neighbors 97 model 3930 has a solenoid
To get my 4000 fired up after running it out of fuel takes it being pull started or a few shots of starting fluid

 

[Starchy]

Any idea what kind of injector pump it had on it? Cav DPS?

 

[Starchy]

Ha! In a past post i indicated it had a bowden cable to the throttle. I meant to the fuel cut-off. No solenoid. The key can be off with the engine running happily (before I screwed it up).

 

[Destroked 450]

Some pump as yours, they only offered one pump for that model
Some had a solenoid and others had a plug were the solenoid went and had a kill cable
Have you loosened the inj lines at the injectors, also its best the have the throttle open half way or more when bleeding the system
Once it fires up you can then idle in down

 

[Starchy]

Yes, I've done all of that. Thanks.

 

[Destroked 450]

What brand of fuel filter did you use

 

[Starchy]

Talked to another diesel mechanic who owns the same tractor. After describing everything to him, he indicated the inj. pump needs to be re-calibrated. That's gonna be fun.

 

[Starchy]

Yup, I screwed something up when I took out that Latch Valve by mistake and cranking the engine a a couple of revolutions to verify fuel flow. Dang it.
Likely going to have to take the inj. pump to Diesel Equipment Co. in Greensboro,NC to get it serviced.

 

[Destroked 450]

Id talk to diesel tech or Al the pump guy on this site first
See what they say about it

 

[Starchy]

I found cracks in the front bolster, just above the axle. Two of the bolts holding the bolster to the engine are also loose and can't be tightened. Can't be sure these are bolts installed from underneath, or studs that have stripped their threads. I have a 7410 loader on it, with some people indicating that it puts a big load on the bolster.

Sounds like I get to take off the whole front end. Have to take the loader off somehow.

 

[Destroked 450]

Theyre bolts that go through the blocks mounting tabs through the bolster and have nuts holding that are located under the radiator
Due to the larger cutout in the bolster to make room for the steering cylinder the 30 series bolster is weaker than on the earlier models
Ive see a number of 30 series with 1/2 or thicker steel plates bolted to the sides of the bolster to strengthen it for loader use

 

[Shearer85]

(quoted from post at 07:26:13 07/09/21) 1998 Ford 5030 MFWD
Fuel inj. pump: Cav DPS (I believe - no markings found)

I changed the fuel filter and cleaned the water separator.
I thought that I had completely bled the filters, but after starting and pulling the tractor out of it's shed, she stopped running, obviously because of air in lines.
After looking at a few videos and forums on the subject of bleeding the pump, I unscrewed what I thought was the injector pump bleed screw. After a bunch of extra searching, I found that it was actually the Latch Valve that I took out. What an idiot.

So now I know fuel is getting to the inj. pump, but nothing is coming out at the injector lines, even when cracked at the distributor-end of the pump and Throttle fully open. I don't believe this pump has shut-off solenoid.

Did I really screw something up inside the inj. pump?
What can I do?
Thanks!
-Doug

Hi there, have you had any joy with this? Im having similar issues with a 5030, unsure of age but Bowden cable to kill stop.

Have plenty of fuel to injection pump supply but can only get a dribble from the bleed screw and nothing from the outlets to the injectors. Starting to resign myself to a pump off job. Would a tow start be worth attempting?

Many thanks in advance.
Jamie

 

[Starchy]

Thanks Destroked. I got the loader off with the help of another tractor and vacuumed out a bunch of crud along with some old sheered bolts and nuts from I suppose previous owners' attempts at repairs, all laying within the bowels of the bolster. Then judiciously pressure-washed the front of the engine and bolster bowels to get rid of the remaining crud.

So some stupid diesel-newbie questions:
Before removing the injector pump, I have to first align the pump gear mark to the camshaft gear mark? The manual I have gives some terrible instructions for both removal and re-assembly. Looking at the pictures in the manual, it shows the pump gear having 54 teeth and the camshaft gear having only 47 teeth, so the camshaft has to rotate 7 (?) times before the pump gear mark re-aligns with the camshaft gear mark? Doesn't sound to me like the pump would be timed appropriately to the valves, but perhaps the pump is internally-timed for the gear mismatch?

Can I rotate the crankshaft by hand from the crankshaft pulley bolt? I would think the compression would be too great, but what do I know? Obviously I could get it close by the starter.
Thanks.

 

[Starchy]

Shearer.... I hope you didn't do a bone-headed move like I did by removing the latch valve. What 'bleed screw' did you loosen/remove?

This post was edited by Starchy on 07/15/2021 at 12:54 pm.

 

[Starchy]

Update:

The tractor sat for a day or two with the throttle wide open and fuel cut-off valve open while I gradually took-off the radiator and oil coolers and cleaned the caked-on grease off everything.
Yesterday I wanted to know which direction the engine cranks (clockwise as looking at the front of the engine), so had my wife stand in front and observe the crankshaft pulley. I just flicked the starter key and the bucket that was placed over the exhaust manifold blew up into the air a few feet with just a little chuffle from the engine. Dang! So I gave the key another twitch, and she started right up, spewing oil and transmission oil all over the place. It sounded about right for the cold engine.
Hopefully the timing is still good. I'll be taking the radiator and oil coolers to be tested and possibly repaired. Also have to replace the 'fasteners' that have barely held the front main bolster to the engine block. I'll likely try reinforcing the bolster with 1/2" steel back to the loader frame.