JD 4010 gasoline condensers going bad after a few hours

sitiakab

New User
I have a 1962 JD 4010 gasoline - owned this tractor for 25 years. Original points system still in place. I only use tractor less than 25 hours each year. Every 3-4 years I replace points, condenser, rotor, cap - just as a precaution - never had issues. In past year I have gone thru 3 condensers - all official from JD dealer. Tractor will suddenly run bad for 1-2 minutes and then quit completely and will not re-start, even after sitting for a day. Put in new condenser, and runs fine again for a few hours, then quits again. Condenser works for 2-5 hours, then condenser goes bad. All wiring looks fine, points look fine, no cracks in cap, etc... I have read where people say "condensers never go bad" but am seeing some newer posts saying bad condensers are out there - the JD ones say "made in china" - I have just ordered Standard Motor Blue Streak and will try that brand instead of JD. Is anyone else have consistent condenser issues, or is there something that could be causing my condensers to go bad?
 
Ya, think I have said condensers never go bad in the past but will not say that anymore. Just went through an issue with my 60
loader tractor just to find out my condenser went bad. Read some where that Standard Motor Products makes several different ones
including Blue Streak and Echlin sold at NAPA. I am trying to keep one or the other on hand, as for something that will or could
cause them to fail better wait for one of the engineers to explain that one.
 
I was told many years ago that the condenser needs to be matched to the coil, that's why it's best to never change them! They don't wear out,
they might fail, but the odds are they will last forever, just like the coil.
 
I appreciate the response, but I am seeking info on "why" I have had 3 fail in recent months? Put a new coil in 5-10 years ago, from JD dealer. No issues for many years, and then when I did a condenser replace a few months ago (just as a part of normal work) the problems started. All 3 condensers that have failed after a few hours were JD dealer condensers. Why?
 
Try buying points for an old car.
Napa/echlin is the only brand currently
known to have a hard enough insulator for
the block that runs the star wheel to run
more than a few hours before wearing out.

They can't ban us using old iron, but
they sure can make it difficult by
supplying junk parts.
 
(quoted from post at 08:01:58 09/06/21) I appreciate the response, but I am seeking info on "why" I have had 3 fail in recent months? Put a new coil in 5-10 years ago, from JD dealer. No issues for many years, and then when I did a condenser replace a few months ago (just as a part of normal work) the problems started. All 3 condensers that have failed after a few hours were JD dealer condensers. Why?

Adding to what Teddy wrote, 'most any shop used to have a condenser tester that could check condensers for insulation leakage/breakdown BEFORE a condenser was installed, and for capacity, and for series resistance/"open".

It would have been interesting to have tested the three condensers with such a device BEFORE installation and after "failure".

Finding them "shorted" or badly "leaky" would be more consistent with the symptoms than if they were to be found "open", IMHO, but either is possible.


Their voltage rating is supposed to be well above any voltage they are exposed to in use, so "failure" would likely point to a part that was poorly made in the first place, IMHO.
 
I have found NOS Filko condensers on e-bay
for reasonable prices. I ordered 10 so I'd
have extras.
We used to think Filko was the best for
ignition parts. Don't know if they're even
in business any more.
The boxes used to say Crown jewels of ignition
on the box.
Jim
 
(quoted from post at 12:53:12 09/07/21) I have found NOS Filko condensers on e-bay
for reasonable prices. I ordered 10 so I'd
have extras.
We used to think Filko was the best for
ignition parts. Don't know if they're even
in business any more.
The boxes used to say Crown jewels of ignition
on the box.
Jim

just asking - did you order 10 because you think they will go bad in short order for your tractor(s), or are you in the repair business, or???
 
At this point,if it were mine, next time I had the problem I would remove the condenser and then put the same one back in. In replacing the condenser your fix might be that you wiggled a problem connection somewhere else and created another temporary fix.
 
(quoted from post at 15:54:12 09/07/21) At this point,if it were mine, next time I had the problem I would remove the condenser and then put the same one back in. In replacing the condenser your fix might be that you wiggled a problem connection somewhere else and created another temporary fix.

that's not a bad idea - but I don't see what other connection I could be wiggling back in line as replacing the condenser just involves removing the dist cap, rotor, seal, and then the small screw that holds condenser in place (non electrical) and the nut that holds the end of the condenser wire to connection. The only possible that I would see would be the main spark plug type wire going from coil into cap, and I have tried unplugging / plugging that one back in when the problem presents itself, with no luck. There are no other wires as the end of the points is solid metal where it slides under the same nut as the wire coming from condenser. Did you have some other electrical connection in mind?
 

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